How can henna harm your hair, why doesn’t it replace regular dye, and what are the risks of abusing natural ingredients? Hairdresser-stylist Evgeniy Shatokhin ( @yauhen) states facts and debunks myths.

Evgeniy Shatokhin Hairdresser-stylist

“Henna is a natural dye that is made from the leaves of the Lawsonia Inermis bush. They are dried and then ground to a powder. The coloring effect is explained by the content of chlorophyll and yellow-red lavsan in the leaves. Henna dyes hair only in red-orange tones. And if the manufacturer promises you a “cold chestnut” color at the end, 100% of the powder contains other additives (or instead of “cold chestnut” you will get “copper red”).”

Henna does not cover gray hair

Henna pigment, unlike conventional dye, does not penetrate deep into the hair - it covers gray hair very poorly. No, the gray strands will take on a tint. But carrot. Despite the fact that henna pigments act on the surface of the hair, they are not completely washed out. This is due to the presence of tannins in the composition. And if someone tries to convince you that henna is washed off in a month, don’t believe it. The only way to get rid of the unwanted reddish-red hue is to cut your hair.

Henna can give a green tint

Unwanted tint is the most common “side effect” of using henna. It can produce a green or earthy color on brunettes and a straw-yellow color on blondes and fair-haired women. It is difficult to correct the situation. If you try to paint over a color with a chemical agent (even an ammonia-free one), the result is unpredictable. Lavsan will react with the dye, and no one knows what shade the end result will be: perhaps it will be “cornflower blue”, or perhaps “orange”. Don't experiment at home.

By the way, if you have used colored henna at least once, and six months later you come to the specialist for regular coloring, the final color, to put it mildly, can also be unpleasantly surprising.

Too frequent dyeing with henna is the cause of brittleness, dryness, dullness

Therapeutic dyeing with henna is a very dubious procedure. This dye contains acids and tannins that dry out the hair. Due to the frequent use of henna, hair loses its shine, elasticity and becomes more like a well-known bath accessory rather than “flowing silk.” Penetrating under the scales, henna breaks the protective layer, causing hair to split and lose moisture. They are difficult to style and become dry and lifeless. Read about how to restore dry and coarse hair.

Henna powder is difficult to remove from hair

Be prepared for the fact that after dyeing with henna you will have to untangle your hair for several hours. Before doing this, they need to be washed thoroughly. The powder particles are very small - this greatly complicates the process. To wash off henna completely, you need at least 20 minutes and a large amount of water. I would recommend using gloves - orange stains on nails are difficult to remove (read about proper hair washing)

Henna can cause allergies

Just like any other dye. The fact that it has a completely natural composition does not mean anything.

Herbal remedies provoke an allergic reaction more often than chemical ones. Before using henna, you need to test it on the inside of your arm.

There is no henna that bleaches hair.

The phrase “white henna” is a marketing ploy. A natural composition that can transform you from a burning brunette to a blonde without damaging your hair has not yet been invented. There is nothing natural and healthy in packages with “white henna”.

Henna “squeezes” hair

After dyeing with henna, the hair becomes stiffer. This is explained by the fact that the substances included in its composition “compress” the hair, making it denser. It would seem, what's wrong with this? By adhering too tightly to each other, the fibers that make up the hair lose their elasticity - the strands become brittle.

Hi all! Remember, I talked about how to make hair dense, thick, increase thickness ()? I choose henna.

Since childhood, I knew that henna was useful, but I didn’t always see this same benefit for my hair. After repeated uses I found out:

1. The resulting effect of dense, smooth hair depends on its initial condition, the quality of the henna, the quantity and frequency of dyeing.

I choose henna without impurities, not mixed with other herbs. I find it more interesting to mix it myself. The best in quality and very affordable, in my opinion, from suppliers Aroma-zone (France) And LLC "Soap Nuts" (St. Petersburg). When ordering henna from them, I am confident in its purity and effectiveness.

The worse the hair condition, the more henna masks it will need. Henna needs to be gradually layered onto the hair. Layer by layer, mask by mask, thinning, empty, loose hair will become dense, elastic and shiny. At the same time (!), such hair needs to be given time to recover and rest between henna dyes.

Conversely, healthy hair only needs 1-2 applications of henna to become elastic and thick.

Over time and with each new dyeing, the henna on the hair becomes richer and darker. Having achieved the desired color along the length, you can paint it with colorless henna or not paint it at all. The effect of polished hair is not washed off.

2. Colorless henna does everything on the hair that colored henna does, but it does not dye the hair. And it doesn't brighten. This is the same Lawsonia plant, specifically devoid of pigment.

3. The intensity of the hair color resulting from dyeing is influenced by the composition of the soil in which the henna grew. The more iron, the redder. Here is the information from Aroma-zone

From light red to dark red. Egyptian, Indian and Yemeni henna.

Popular Iranian henna produces a red color.

The lighter the initial hair color, the lighter and brighter the result will be after colored henna. This is blond, brown and red hair. From 10 to 7 tone levels. Your hair will become colored after the first mask.

Dark hair, black hair will not change color dramatically. Warm red, red, and burgundy highlights will take on a tint. Dark hair needs more masks than light hair.

By mixing henna with other powders you can achieve different shades.

Ginger – orange

Carnation – red

Turmeric – yellow

Indigofera (basma) – dark

Rapontik - honey

I tried mixing it with coffee and cocoa, but I didn’t get a visible coffee or cocoa tint. For brown shades there are special mixtures of henna and basma, for example, katam.

4. Dry henna does not dye your hair. It “gives off pigment” in water. The longer henna is in water (wet, wet paste), the more pigment it gives off, the more intense the color will be. I used to apply colored henna paste on my hair and go to bed. All night with henna on my head. It's inconvenient. Now I brew henna and leave it in a closed container overnight, and in the morning I apply it to my head and leave it for just an hour. The temperature of the paste doesn't matter. The main thing is that the paste remains wet and does not dry out either in the container or on your head overnight.

5. For henna to color your hair, you only need water. All other additives are optional. Eggs, honey, etc. do not play a role in the quality and color of hair. Unless they improve the consistency of the paste.

It is appropriate to add vegetable oil to the paste. This gives the paste a creamy consistency and makes it easier to distribute through the hair. Powder [henna] absorbs moisture, including from hair. The oil softens this drying property of henna. Fat kefir has a similar effect.

I prefer light oils that are quickly absorbed into the skin and hair. This reduces the time the mask stays on your head. I like argan and jojoba. When I don't have them on hand, I use olive oil. Thick, viscous oils: shea, castor, coconut - are difficult to wash out of the hair and take a long time to absorb. For example, argan is absorbed into the skin and hair without residue within 30 minutes, shea needs 8 hours to be absorbed.

The easiest way to wash off the paste from your head is in standing water (in a basin). You can also take a shower. I wash off the paste with shampoo. This does not affect hair color and improves washout of the powder. Because if the hair is not washed enough after henna, it is hard, hard to comb, and not elastic<< даже после проф маски на длину.

Previously, immediately after dyeing with henna, my hair was somewhat coarse and not silky. This went away after the next wash with a strong mask. No matter what I added to the paste (citric acid, glycerin, rice proteins), this unpleasant effect of dry hair immediately after henna persisted. Now I get rid of it very simply - after shampoo I use not a moisturizing mask, but a conditioner for the hair coloring procedure, which stabilizes acidity. I have this Angel Expert. I don't add anything else to the paste itself. Only henna, water and oil. The conditioner copes well with the effect of dry hair after henna. They are the same as always, like after a professional mask.

They say that henna loves an acidic environment. It doesn't matter to me. The hair needs an acidic environment immediately after the dye to put the scales in place.

6. I dye my hair with henna once a month. Before dyeing I prepare my hair. They need moisture. Therefore, I wash my hair with Lakme Master Oil(). Next wash with conditioner. At the moment this is Wella Elements() and only then I start coloring with henna >> paste, shampoo, conditioner Angel. Next wash again with Angel stabilizing conditioner and continue as usual.

7. Bleached hair and henna. Yes, it's compatible! Remembering the dryness of my hair after henna, for a long time I thought that I would make my hair even worse if I dyed it with henna. I was afraid that they would become even tougher and more disobedient. Following points 4, 5, 6, I do not experience any problems with the quality of my hair.

What's happened henna and what beneficial properties it has, as well as my personal, proven method of brewing henna, which does not dry out the hair.

The first time I dyed my hair with henna was when I was about 18. And no, then I didn’t think about my health yet, just as a simple student - it was much cheaper than ordinary chemical dyes.

My natural hair color is probably what is called mouse color. Dark brown and somehow lifeless.

I've always really liked and am still crazy about red hair. There is something mystical about him that has always attracted me. Nature didn’t gift me with red hair, so I decided to take everything into my own hands.

I’ve been a redhead for over 13 years now. The shades changed - from a very light, reddish blond to a dark, reddish shade. For myself, I already know that red is my color, it’s how I feel from the inside.

I used to always use a recipe where henna was simply mixed with water. I applied it for a couple of hours, washed it off with shampoo and that was it!

About 5 years ago, I read on one of the forums about natural beauty that the color will be deeper and brighter if henna is mixed with some kind of acidic medium - like vinegar, lemon or orange juice.

The color was indeed brighter, but the problem was that the henna dried out my hair very much, as a result of which it began to split.

About a year ago I met a girl from India who had gorgeous black hair with reddish highlights. Honestly, all Indian girls have very beautiful, super thick hair.

We got to talking, where I said that henna is a constant friend of my hair, and I really like the result, but it dries my hair very much. To which she told me that henna itself will dry, and even with lemon juice.

So she shared with me her recipe, which does not dry out the hair, gives it a reddish color, nourishes, gives volume and thickens the hair. I still use this recipe to this day.

Henna no longer dries out my hair, but makes it voluminous, strong, shiny and healthy. I couldn't be happier!

The photo for this post shows how my hair looks before and after henna. And if the color has not changed much (probably, after so many years of use, henna has become firmly ingrained into my hair), then changes in the structure and smoothness of the hair are visible to the naked eye.

What is henna?

It is a greenish powder obtained by grinding the leaves of the Lawsonia inermis shrub. The leaves of this shrub contain a dye element - Lawsone, due to which henna dyes not only the hair, but also the skin in a red-orange color.

Cultivated in the warm tropical climates of northern Africa and northern and western Asia.

Humanity began using henna several thousand years ago. Some scientists claim that even Cleopatra and Nefertiti used it to maintain the beauty of their hair.

Why is henna better than regular hair dye?

I understand perfectly well that not everyone, like me, is in love with red hair color. But now there are many different types of henna mixed with various herbs that will help achieve a variety of hair shades, of course, depending on the natural, original hair color.

It is important to understand that henna cannot lighten hair, since this requires bleaching the hair pigment.

• closes the hair cuticle, attaching to the hair protein and does not penetrate the hair cuticle, but envelops it, while regular dye penetrates the hair shaft.
• it is absolutely natural and if you choose high-quality henna, it does not contain chemical components that can be absorbed into the blood when applied to the scalp.
• safe and does not cause allergic reactions, unlike paints.
• Gives incomparable shine, smoothness and strength to your hair, making each individual hair shaft noticeably thicker. Hair looks thicker and more voluminous.
• has an antifungal effect and can be used to combat dandruff, unlike chemical dyes, which can provoke this very dandruff.

Henna in Indian style

And who, if not they, should know everything about henna, using it in their culture not only for hair coloring, but also for Mehendi (the traditional application of henna on the skin in the form of intricate patterns).

Here's how I prepare henna:

1. Henna, powder: amount depending on the length and thickness of the hair. For my thin, mid-back hair, it takes about 3/4 cup.

Note: henna is different. And not only the final result, but also your health depends on its quality. I was scared to learn that unscrupulous companies add heavy metals to henna. So choose quality over quantity.

2. A strong solution of black tea. I boil water in a small saucepan (I take 2 glasses just in case) and as soon as it boils, I add 4 tablespoons of black tea. And over low heat, stirring occasionally, I brew it.

Note: I am a big fan of turmeric (a very strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect) and try to put it not only in my food and morning smoothie, but also in my henna. I even put it in a homemade coffee scrub once, but then I was covered in yellow spots. Turmeric strengthens hair and prevents hair loss.

My henna also contains chili pepper, which dilates blood vessels and improves circulation, creating a feeling of warmth, which helps the color set even better.

I add spices (1 teaspoon each) along with tea and boil.

3. Then I dilute the henna with this tea solution to the consistency of full-fat yogurt. Cover and put in a warm place to infuse for 2 days.

Note: henna does not like metal, so do not use metal utensils for brewing it, only ceramics or glass. Stir it with a wooden or plastic spatula or spoon.

4. Before applying henna, I wash my hair, as it adheres better to clean hair. I apply henna to dry hair, but on wet hair it starts to run and creates a mess.

I always add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, Shea butter and argan oil and a couple of drops of oregano and orange essential oils to my henna.

Note: You can add any oils you like. Oil is necessary not only to nourish the hair, but also to prevent dryness. Through trial and error, I already know that olive and shea butter work best for my hair.

I add orange essential oil just for the scent. And oregano - for its antifungal properties. It will help those who have problems with oily scalp or dandruff.

5. Mix the resulting mixture thoroughly with a wooden spatula. I apply it along the partings to the roots using a brush, after combing the hair well. And then with your hands along the entire length of the hair.

Note: henna stains the skin, so I advise you to wear rubber gloves if you don’t want to have yellow palms

6. After I finish applying the henna, I massage my scalp for a couple of minutes. Then I put my hair in a bun and put plastic bags on my head. As many as 2! And then I also wrap my head in a towel. Henna loves warmth!

I keep henna for 2 hours. I used to try to do it at night, but it was very difficult and uncomfortable to sleep.

7. I wash off the henna first with just warm water. Then I apply conditioner and massage the scalp and hair itself. I wash it off. I apply the conditioner again, wait a couple of minutes and rinse until the water becomes clear. I do not recommend washing off the henna with shampoo; this can lead to very tangled hair and a less vibrant color.

After this, I rinse my hair with vinegar, I already wrote about this method ,which not only adds shine, but also fixes the henna.

Note: Your hair will smell like henna for a couple of days. But this smell doesn't bother me at all.

Also, I try not to wash my hair after hennaing it for at least 3 days. So that the color does not wash off and lasts longer.

I use henna once every 3 months. I buy this natural one, without impurities.

It has the ability to accumulate in the hair and with each use the color of your hair will look deeper and more saturated.

Nature has not given me gorgeous hair and I cannot boast of thick hair, but henna gives my hair the thickness and volume it needs. Hair looks well-groomed, smooth and shiny.

Henna is a natural, time-tested hair care method that not only colors hair, but also takes care of its appearance and health.

How do you dye your hair with henna? And how does your hair look after this?

* Important: Dear readers! All links to the iherb website contain my personal referral code. This means that if you follow this link and order from the iherb website or enter HPM730 when you order in a special field (referral code), you receive a 5% discount on your entire order, I receive a small commission for this (this has absolutely no effect on the price of your order).

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In search of a cheap and long-lasting hair coloring product, many often stop at natural dyes. The most popular dye is henna. Women owe their bright shades of lasting red-red color to the flowering shrub “lawsonia”, from the dried leaves of which this paint is produced. At first glance, what could be a safer, natural and strengthening remedy? Whether henna is useful and safe for hair needs to be examined in more detail.

Dry hair after coloring

Many women's first impressions of henna dyeing are positive. Hair becomes stronger, stronger and shiny. The hair structure becomes denser. The hair color itself is bright and looks natural. With constant use of henna, unfortunately, the opposite effect occurs.

Henna contains acids and tannins, which in the process of frequent hair coloring can dry it out. Even naturally oily hair will dry out over time if it is constantly dyed. For dry and naturally thin hair, henna dyeing is not recommended at all. In addition, it negatively affects the scalp. You may develop dandruff. And depending on the individual characteristics of the human body, henna causes dermatitis.

Over time, hair becomes dull

Hair has a layer of scales on its surface - the cuticle, which protects it from the negative effects of the environment: sun, cold, wind, and so on. The shine and texture of your curls depends on the condition of this little hair protector. A healthy cuticle layer has cells that fit tightly together and is naturally covered with a water-resistant fatty layer. Henna destroys this protective layer, penetrating the cuticle and opening the scales. The density of the top layer is broken and the shine gradually disappears.

Hair is not completely dyed

In fact, henna does not dye your hair, but only gives it a warmer shade. Therefore, you should not expect a radical change in color.

It is not recommended to apply henna to women whose first gray hairs have begun to appear: their structure is very different from the structure of healthy hair, so dyed gray hair will stand out as a bright red against the background of a deeper and calmer shade.

The end result is impossible to predict

The dye applies completely unpredictably to hair of different colors and textures. Even if you and your friend have the exact same shade, it is possible that henna will look more advantageous on her hair due to its different density. And as you know, getting rid of pigment is very difficult.

Hair cannot be styled

From the influence of henna, hair becomes unruly when styling and curling, as the natural structure of the hair is disrupted. With frequent use, this becomes especially noticeable on short hair, which looks disheveled and unkempt. Long hair gets tangled and cannot be combed.

Difficult to wash off while dyeing

Henna is very difficult to wash off from hair. A large amount of water and patience are required. Along with the hair, the scalp is also colored. To avoid staining your fingers and nails, it is recommended to use gloves when washing off, although it is not easy to wash the plant-based dye out of your hair.

Often the choice of henna is determined by the desire to improve hair health. Knowing about the disadvantages of henna staining and further negative consequences, you can make your own choice and decide which products are more suitable.

I have had the experience of dyeing my hair with henna in my early youth, and it is truly terrible. Since then, I have been very skeptical about all these fans of “natural coloring”, “oh, how useful”, “yay, henna, I’ll treat my hair” and so on. But I couldn’t explain my skepticism with anything other than personal experience. And now, after studying, I can.

Let's start with how henna works on hair. And approximately like lamination, that is, it forms a film on the surface of the hair. A very durable film, to be honest. No chemical laminating composition could ever dream of such strength, thank God. This is due to the content of tannins. These are polyphenolic compounds that compact the protein, in this case, on the surface of the hair. A scab is made from healthy tissue (this property is used, for example, when processing hides). So far it doesn't sound too scary. But what does this actually give us?

An impenetrable crust on the surface of the hair that nothing can break. If your hair is absolutely, perfectly healthy, this is a blessing, because it will be difficult to spoil it. But if the hair has been damaged, dyed, or God forbid bleached, that’s the end. Because not a single balm, not a single oil, not a single mask will pass through the surface of the hair. And this is damn irreversible. All that remains is to cut it gradually.

Here we were talking about a one-time henna treatment. If you dye your hair with this infusion regularly, then henna will also harm healthy hair. Over and over again, the crust will grow, become harder, and the hair will become coarser. Gradually, the hair almost completely loses its elasticity. And when trying to collect a tail, combing, wiping, trivially during sleep, whenever the hair should bend, it will break. The break will result in a section, and the elasticity will be at zero... Well, and so on.

But the worst thing about henna is that its effects are irreversible. It can be washed off, but it is impossible to remove this film completely. It is impossible to remove this red color and neutralize the effect. Henna is very difficult to cover.

Here you also need to understand why. Permanent dye (or lightening powder) works under the cuticle (shell) in the inner layer of the hair - the cortex. The henna crust does not allow the composition to penetrate into the place of its work, and the coloring does not come out. You can paint henna in darker shades, but the paint will wash off very quickly, because instead of permanent coloring you will get toning - a layer of dye on the surface of the crust.

For thin and weak hair, this is absolutely hell. Because the roots cannot withstand the weight of the crust on the hair, and the hair also begins to fall out.

I am sure that among my readers there are young ladies who have had positive experiences using henna. I’ll be happy to listen to you, but most likely I just won’t believe you. I've seen a lot of heads stained with henna. Now, as a hairdresser, I regularly face the need to correct this. But essentially, until all the length is cut off, I have nothing to offer. So we get toned and come up with beautiful short haircuts to make it faster.

By the way, henna does not cover gray hair. And the gray hair, which cannot be covered with henna, will continue to shine through.

This is what I mean, before you dye your hair with anything: think 5 times. As a hairdresser, I ask you :) Before applying henna to your head, think a million times and reconsider, please. You don't need it. Now there is a sea of ​​professional dyes for every taste and budget, safe, harmless, approved for use even during pregnancy. Please, if you care about the beauty and health of your hair, do not use henna. Its only advantage is its plant origin.