It is known that darts serve to ensure that the modeled product “fits” the figure. Note that the darts on the model can take any position, but the standards for their translation remain the same.
Video for the article
Exists two ways to transfer darts- graphic and pattern method. The graphic method is performed using the method of arcs and serifs. It is quite labor-intensive, so when modeling they mainly use the translation of darts using the template method (later, we will consider the graphical method). That is, they transfer the base pattern onto paper and use the cuts to model the darts.
Transfer of grooves on the shoulder base
On the shoulder base, darts can be directed from the shoulder, side seams, from the armhole or neckline, from the waistline or from the middle seam of the part. The main thing is to follow three rules:
- The tuck solution must be preserved.
- The top of the new dart should point toward the center of the bulge.
- If a tuck is transferred to the location of another tuck, then the tuck solutions are summed up.
(1). We take the template for the shoulder base - it is the upper part of the constructed pattern for the base of the dress.
(2). It has a chest dart - the lines are red, a waist dart - Blue colour lines and the center of the convexity is a green circle.
(3). Let's take a closer look at the translation into chest dart in the side line.
We determine the location of the new dart line on the template - the blue line. We make sure that the second rule of transferring darts is observed.
(4). We cut the template along this line, we get two parts.
(5). Part 2 remains stationary, part 1 is moved, closing the chest dart and at the same time opening the dart in the side line.
(6). We outline a new contour and get a product with a dart in the side seam.
(7). Similarly, you can transfer the chest dart into the neck line,
(8). In the armhole line,
(9). Using the previously described method, you can remove all the darts in the neck line. When translating, remember the rules for translating darts.
(10). During further sewing, we can create folds or gathers on the neckline; for this we will draw a new contour of the neckline.
(eleven). We can also remove the waist darts to the side. To do this, we need to set aside the size of the dart opening from the side line and draw a new side line.
Thus, on the shoulder base, you can transfer darts to any seam, the main thing is to follow the translation rules.
Partial translation
Also, we can completely get rid of the chest dart by partially transferring it to the neckline, shoulder line and armhole. You just need to remember that such a pattern without a chest dart is used when cutting a loose-fitting product. Women with a large size always need darts so that the item does not look like a bag.
First, let's measure the tuck solution. Draw cut lines to the neckline and armhole line.
We reduce the chest dart opening to 1.0 - 1.5 cm. On the neckline, we move the template along the cut line by 1.0 - 1.5 cm, and transfer the entire remaining breast dart opening to the armhole line.
(2). As a result, we get a new pattern outline.
Translation of darts based on trousers and skirts
Most often in these products, if the silhouette is planned to be tight-fitting, it is not possible to completely get rid of darts. Darts are converted into shaped lines.
The exception is the jeans pattern. The cut of jeans differs significantly from regular trousers in that they are more tight-fitting, so some changes are made to the pattern of the base of the trousers. As a rule, there is a dart on the front half of the trousers; there should not be one on jeans. To do this, we partially transfer the dart to the middle and side seams.
REMEMBER: if the dart is moved only to the middle seam, a bubble will form at the end of the zipper. This happens because the middle seam line is strongly deviated from the vertical. At the same time, if you remove the entire dart into the side seam, then a strong narrowing occurs along the side line. Therefore, the recess solution is divided in half (red and blue lines).
We've covered the basics translation of darts. Their further modeling depends on imagination, the main thing is to follow the rules for translating darts.
Vera Olkhovskaya
This lesson on cutting techniques is quite simple and can be recommended for beginner couturiers who have already learned how to take measurements and remember their letter designations.
Don't forget to use the table for taking measurements, which you can download for free on Vera Olkhovskaya's website. To do this, click on the table image and enlarge it, save it on your device.
To ensure that the pattern for the base of the back does not overlap the pattern for the base of the shelf, check the width of the paper sheet. It should be no less than the width of the back and shelf combined:
Sat + 4 cm
Back base
We start with vertical and horizontal lines.
We will consider the left cut of the sheet of paper to be the middle line (vertical) of the back (Fig. 1).
Then we draw the initial (first, initial, upper) line, departing from the lower horizontal section of the sheet
Di + 3 cm
Of course, this horizontal and subsequent ones must be strictly parallel to each other and strictly perpendicular to the midline of the back.
We measure from the starting line down Ds and draw a waist line.
From waist up
D boch minus 1 cm
This is for the barrel height level.
From waist down 18 cm– hip level.
To determine the bottom line from the original down - Di or from the waist down Du, depending on what measurement you chose to take.
The horizontal backrest is finished.
Next, set the width of the back at the level of the barrel (Fig. 2):
Shs + 1 cm,
for kinky figures -
Shs + 1.5 cm
There, measure the width of the back to side seam:
1/2(Cr + 4) minus 2 cm
Width of the sprout - according to the original to the right
1/3Сш + 0.5 cm
The height of the sprout is down the midline of the back:
1/3 the width of the sprout
Shoulder cut. We need to draw two intersecting arcs.
The first arc is from the lateral point of the germ with a radius
Dp + vt
(in many cases, a tuck is not needed and you can get by with a fit 1 cm)
The second arc is from the midpoint along the waist with a radius Military industrial complex. If there is a shoulder pad, add more 1 cm, that is, the radius will be
Vpk + 1 cm
To design the armhole
From the back width point (red cross) – perpendicular 7-8 cm.
Set aside at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) minus 2 cm
Draw the side cut with a straight line.
Shelf
If you are building the base of the shelf on the same sheet, extend the horizontal lines of the waist, hips and bottom (Fig. 3). If on another sheet, copy the horizontal lines for the shelf pattern onto a new sheet.
Then take the measurement from your waist up DPT and draw the original horizontal line for the shelf.
From the starting line of the shelf downwards, measure Vg and draw a line for the height of the chest, then again from the original down - the line for the height of the armhole.
To find the height of the armhole of the shelf, you need to measure the distance from the midpoint of the sprout to the level of the barrel using the back drawing. The resulting distance should be reduced in accordance with the shelf armhole reduction table.
And set the already reduced value, as was said, down from the original line of the shelf.
The next stage, which can roughly be called “width limitation,” is shown in Fig. 4. The most important vertical of the shelf pattern is the semi-skid - this vertical corresponds to the midline of the human torso, passing through the jugular cavity and the navel.
We start from the original line of the shelf - measure the width of the neck along it from the half-skid:
Neck width = sprout width
Neck depth = neck width + 1 cm
The depth of the neck is measured, as you guessed it, down the half-skid.
We connect the resulting neck points with a smooth curve.
At chest height from half-skid, measure Rtsg and mark the center of the chest bulge - we will need this point to construct the chest dart.
From the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the chest:
Shg 2 + 0.5 or 1 cm.
From the resulting point upward, a perpendicular segment 4 – 5 cm. Its top is one of the points of the armhole and you can immediately make a bisector from the corner of the armhole (shaded in yellow) - 2 – 2.5 cm. We'll take care of the design later.
And again, from the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the front to the side seam:
1/2(Cr + Pb) + 2 cm
Measure at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) + 2 cm
Now, the shoulder section (Fig. 5).
We find the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs:
The first arc is made from the side point of the neck with a radius Dp;
The second - from the point of convexity of the chest with a radius Npp + 1 cm for the shoulder pad.
We connect the resulting shoulder point with the side neck point already existing on the original line.
The armhole will be formed according to the existing shoulder points, “5” and “2”. The last point of the armhole should be shifted up and towards the half-skid 1 cm.
Connect the “unit” to the point marked at hip level. This will give a preliminary line for the side cut, without a bust dart for now.
Construction of a “side” dart (Fig. 6).
To determine the dart solution, we compare the length of the back barrel and the length of the shelf barrel, measuring them according to the drawing.
We start the top line of the dart by stepping back down the side cut from the “unit” by 5 cm.
Next we measure 
tuck solution.
The top of the dart (Fig. 7) should not reach the center of the chest bulge on 2.5 cm– mark the point “2.5” and connect it with the points already existing on the side cut.
We align the sides of the dart along the longer side and build the missing section of the side seam (red dotted line).
All that remains is to draw out all the lines smoothly, lengthen the half-skid by 1 - 1.5 cm and add darts (see below and in Fig. 8).
If the dart is too large, then this base will not suit you.
But, of course, the waist dart of the front should be shifted from the center of the chest bulge to 2.5 cm to the side seam. This will place the waist dart underneath the top of the bust dart.
The finished pattern for the base with a side dart for the bust is shown in Fig. 9.
Patterns of dresses of popular styles this season in full size
|
Good afternoon, today’s article will be devoted to TRANSFER OF A DOTTER. We will move the dart from the place where it is on the pattern (that is, from the shoulder seam) to its classic place (on the side seam). All tailors perform a similar manipulation after construction. basic pattern, in the case, of course, if this dart is not transferred somewhere else, following the constructive intent of the fashion designer. You may have questions... Why do you need to move this dart at all, is it necessary? Is it possible to immediately draw a chest dart on the side seam, so that you don’t have to move it there every time? I will be happy to answer.
First of all, we will need your basic dress pattern. Just in case, I remind you that you can easily create your basic dress pattern using our program: just enter your measurements into the form and click the “generate” button. The program itself will perform all the necessary constructions and calculations. Online generator of a basic dress pattern here:
Why move the dart?
The dart is moved to the side seam (5-7 cm below the armpit) so that it is not as noticeable as it would be if the designer had decided to leave it on the shoulder. If you open your closet with blouses and dresses, you will see that all the bust darts are on classic models located in this very side seam, there they, covered with a hand, do not catch the eye and do not interfere with the designer’s imagination.
Is it possible to immediately draw a dart where it should be - on the side seam?
The fact is that creating a pattern for a specific dress initially involves changing the Basic pattern IN STRICT ACCORDANCE WITH THE SILHOUETTE OF THE DRESS, ITS STYLE AND OTHER CUT ELEMENTS. The tuck is one of these very “cutting elements”. And in different dresses this undercut is moved to different places. Most often (in classic version) its location is 5-7 cm below the armpit. But there are dresses (and we will sew them with you) where the chest dart is transferred to the waist, neckline, armhole, etc. In every specific case, when modeling this or that style of dress, each time we will transfer the dart to the place where it is provided for by the laws of cutting this particular dress.
In our article today we will look in detail at transferring the dart to the side seam, because... in the vast majority of dress styles our tuck that's where it's located. So let's get started...
How to transfer a dart to a side seam
This is a very simple process - and it will take you no more than 2-3 minutes.
This is what our pattern looks like with darts on the shoulder seam. (Have you already ordered your basic pattern on our service? Here: link) If you leave this dart here and close it, it will create the bulge we need for our chest, BUT on our dress there will be a not very attractive seam in the center of each shoulder. We don't need this, so we we will move the dart to a less accessible place - to the side seam.
Take a pencil and a ruler. On the pattern from the bottom edge of the armhole down measure 5-7 cm - put a dot in this place.
Now we find the top of our chest dart - here it is. And we draw a line connecting the top of the chest dart with the point that we measured on the side line of the pattern.
We take scissors and along this line make a cut WITHOUT REACHING 2 CM to the top of the dart.
now we manually close the dart on the shoulder and a new dart automatically opens in the very place where we just made the cut. That's all - all that remains is to seal the old dart with tape (so that it does not open back).
So we have a new dart on the side seam under the armpit. As you can see in the photo below, this new dart performs its function remarkably well - that is, exactly the same as the old one, it creates a voluminous bulge for your breasts.
And now you can continue cutting your dress, with full confidence that the new dart will fit perfectly into the shape of your bust, and the bodice of your dress will fit you well.
As you can see, the whole point of transferring a dart (no matter to what place) comes down to the following: we make a cut in the place where we want to move the dart, close the old dart, and we automatically create a new dart (by pushing apart the cut parts of the pattern). Using exactly the same principle, we will transfer the darts to any place planned by the cut. We will encounter the transfer of darts more than once during modeling. different styles dresses, and each time I will tell you in detail and show you step by step the whole process of transferring a dart to a new place.
Happy sewing!
Based on the basic pattern, you can create various models of shoulder products through modeling. And I will show you one of the modeling techniques - transferring a chest dart - in this article.
The pattern can be cut from the constructed drawing, but I recommend making patterns. And the drawing will still be needed for many other models, we are not going to stop there!
To make a pattern, we will need to transfer all the contours using a cutter, carbon paper or tracing paper onto paper.
We translate the contours exactly along the lines. We translate everything that is in the drawing: structural horizontal and vertical lines, darts.
The patterns are ready, you can start modeling.
Today I'll show you six ways to move a dart from its original position to a new position. Why do we need this? In order to create a new product dictated by fashion.
Modeling
- After we have transferred the pattern of the base of the bodice front with the chest shoulder dart from the drawing to another sheet, we mark the top of the dart with point A.
- Draw a new line for the position of the dart and connect it to point A.
- We cut the dart along a new line, while closing the opening of the chest dart, aligning its sides.
- We got a new tuck, in a different direction.
Options for transferring a chest dart
1. Transfer of the shoulder dart to the armhole line
From point A to the armhole we will draw a new dart line. It is marked in red in the figure. Then we cut the pattern along the intended line (you may not need to cut 2-3 mm) and close the opening of the chest dart from the shoulder seam. Thus, we got a new dart coming from the armhole line.
2. Transferring the shoulder dart to the side cut
In this case, we draw a new dart line from point A to the side cut. We cut it in the same way, closing the chest dart from the shoulder seam.
Similarly, we transfer the dart to the side seam at the level of the waist line, to the waist line itself, to the middle of the front, to the neckline.
3. Transfer the shoulder dart to the side seam at the waist line
4. Transferring the shoulder dart to the waistline
You will notice that the new dart line is almost identical to the waistline side of the original dart. In this case of transferring the chest dart from the shoulder seam, we seem to combine two darts.
5. Moving the shoulder dart to the middle front
6. Transferring the shoulder dart to the neck line
Using modeling techniques, we can create patterns for any clothing model you like.
Did you like our site? Join or subscribe (you will receive notifications about new topics by email) to our channel in MirTesen!
Transfer of chest dart
Hello, my dear blog readers! Now we will look at several ways translation of the chest dart, because you will probably want to hide this large dart on the base pattern of the dress “from view.” If you have not yet made a base pattern for yourself, follow the link (there you will find step by step process pattern making - basics for beginners).
Methods for converting a chest dart will open up an incredible variety of models for you. That is, you can feel like a fashion designer and come up with a dress for yourself.
The tuck can be transferred in several directions: to the side seam, to the armhole, to the neckline, to the yoke, to the drapery. And this will result in a huge variety of models. The main rule is that the center of the dart is always directed towards the center of the chest. (Tsg, see more details here (“how to take measurements correctly”)).
To begin, transfer onto tracing paper the part of the pattern on which you will transfer the dart (the front or back of the bodice).
- to achieve smooth lines, the dart should not reach the center of the chest (in my drawing this is point G6) by 2 cm (if its ends look UP), and by 3-4 cm (if its ends look DOWN). Then the fabric will not become a cone on the chest.
Transferring the dart to the side seam
This is the most common way to transfer a dart. You choose for yourself - at what distance from the armhole will the dart be located? It can lie horizontally, or it can be lowered slightly (set aside 3-6 cm from the bottom of the armhole on the side, and connect this point to the point of the center of the chest).
The ends of the dart look down, so from the center of the chest we shorten the dart by 3-4 cm. Cut along this line and close the dart at the top.
Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line
Most often, point P6 is used to transfer to the armhole line with basic pattern drawing.
The ends of the dart point upward, so we shorten the length of the dart by 2 cm.
Transferring the chest dart to the shoulder line
Select any point on the shoulder line for the new direction of the dart. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.
This way the dart will also remain on the shoulder, only its direction will change slightly.
You can convert the dart into two soft folds. (as in the picture below)
Transferring the chest dart to the neckline
Mark the transfer line to the side of the neck. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.
Transferring the bust dart to the center line
Do not forget to reduce the length of the dart by 3 cm. (The photo also shows the transfer of the dart to the center)
Transferring the bust dart to the waistline
Design the sides of the dart taking into account the convexity of the chest. Lower the corner of the groove by 3 cm.
Relief - another version of the chest dart
The relief is the line that combines the chest and waist darts.
The relief can be from the shoulder line, from the armhole, from the neckline, from the center.
In tight-fitting silhouettes (read about silhouettes and body types here), the relief is located on the most convex points of the chest and shoulder blades.
Relief from the armhole
Relief from the armhole
Shoulder relief
Relief from the neck
First we move the chest dart to the center. And then we close the center dart, and it will open near the relief.
Front part with a fold (how to cut it out)
Remember, when constructing the drawing of the front of the pattern-basis of the dress, we made a fit in the chest area (half-skid). So: in order for us to cut out the front part of the bodice with a fold, we need to ensure that the front fold line is vertical and straight. And the half-skid creates curvature on the future fold line (see drawing below, the place of the half-skid is marked in pink)
Therefore, in order to make the fold line straight, we move the selected segment (in white in the figure below), forming a straight fold line in the center of the front part. This will increase the chest dart slightly. The white sector will lie on the drawing with a slight overlap below the center line of the chest (this is how it should be).
All! This way you will get a bodice detail with a fold in the center, which is convenient when converting the chest dart into relief.
Interesting options for transferring a chest dart
I bring to your attention various additional options for transferring a breast dart, maybe they will inspire you to create a BEAUTIFUL one!
This is where I will end this long review of the bust dart translation! I hope you can choose the option that suits you and inspires you! I wish you good luck and sew with me! See you soon on the blog pages!
Dart transfer method
A tuck is a constructive technique with the help of which a three-dimensional shape of a product is achieved and a uniform fit of a flat material of a complex body configuration is achieved. The main structural darts on the product correspond to certain convex areas of the figure. The upper dart of the front reveals the volume of the mammary gland and is located from the edge of the part towards the protruding point of the chest (determined on the pattern by the measurements Cg and Bg). The dart from the waist up on the front pattern is also directed to the same point. The chest dart is always directed to the center of the chest and can be moved to the armhole, side cut, mid-front line, waist, neckline, and can be replaced with tucks and gathers. To develop the design of models of complex shapes, they usually use a basic bodice base with set-in sleeves, in which the darts are located from the shoulder sections of the back and front, from the side sections and from the waist line.
Transferring the bust dart to the waistline.
To move the chest dart to the waist line, mark its new position, then cut the pattern along this line and, having closed (laid) the main dart, open it in a new place (Fig. 1). Fig.1. To achieve smoothness when processing a bulge on the chest, the dart should not reach the center of the chest by 1-2cm. The dart can be sewn in completely or partially, leaving softness under the bust line. Instead of a dart along the cut of the waistline, you can design an gather. In this case, the bodice is usually lengthened by 3-5 cm to create an overlap. A soft, voluminous bodice is recommended for figures who need to hide excessive thinness. A wide tuck opening can be distributed into several shallow folds - tucks.
Moving the chest dart to the side cut.
To do this, draw the line of the intended dart on the front part from the side cut to the center of the chest and cut along the intended line. The chest dart from the shoulder seam is closed by aligning the cuts (Fig. 2, a).
The dart obtained in this way, to achieve smoothness during processing, is not brought to the center of the chest by 3-4 cm. Using the line drawn from the side cut, you can model a cut flank, the contours of which form a rectangular relief line running through the center of the chest from the side cut to the waist line (Fig. 2, b). The vertical part of the relief is led along the dart of the waist line. The relief is decorated with decorative stitching and piping for expressiveness. If the product is made of striped or checkered fabric, the barrel can be cut at an angle of 45° to the warp thread.
Moving the dart to the neckline.
The dart into the neckline is designed in the same way as darts from the armhole, from the side cut, etc., i.e., the desired direction of the new dart is outlined, cut, closing the dart from the shoulder seam.
Fig.3. In this case, the chest dart is distributed between the dart from the side cut and from the neck. The waistline is formed by gathering (Fig. 3). The open dart from the neckline is connected to the dart from the armhole, and the upper side part of the bodice is cut off. The resulting relief can be decorated with decorative stitching, piping, lace, finishing buttons, snaps, and embroidery on the cutting part. The neckline dart can be replaced by two opposing folds located in front at its center. The drawing is developed according to the same rules for moving the dart into the neck. In this case, determine the position of the counter fold on the neckline, for which 2.5 cm is set aside from the mid-front line along the neckline. Draw a cutting line from the neck line to the center of the chest, cut it, chopping off the chest dart from the shoulder section with pins (Fig. 4).
The pattern of the front (front) of the bodice obtained in this way is transferred to paper again, marking a counter fold in the dart solution. The neck line is marked and cut with the fold closed to obtain an accurate cut. The finished pattern is traced onto the fabric, adding seam allowances. The neckline is marked and cut only when the darts are inserted. The resulting configuration is reproduced on the fabric by adding seam allowances along the sections. Finished darts can be sewn from the inside out, stitched according front side product in whole or in part, leaving a soft shape above the bust line. Instead of darts, the neckline can be decorated with gathering.
Moving the chest dart into soft folds at the widened neckline.
This cut can be used for dresses and blouses made of light silk or cotton fabric. Instead of folds, the neckline is also decorated with ruffles. The model is suitable for young and slender people. To make a pattern on the basic basis of a bodice with set-in sleeves, mark a new neckline. Next, from the line of the middle front on the widened neck, lay two 3 cm. The resulting points (and the central point of the neck) are connected by straight lines to the center of the chest (Fig. 6, a).
On the side cut line, set aside 3 cm from the armhole and draw a straight line from this point to the center of the chest. Clip off the chest dart and cut the pattern along the marked lines. The tuck solution is distributed evenly into the folds (Fig. 6, b).
Replacing the chest dart with puffs or pleats from the shoulder section.
The locations of the folds are marked on the shoulder cut line. The position of the first fold is 4-4.5 cm from the neckline. Then the chest line is drawn on the pattern. The position of the folds is also noted on it: for two folds, 2.5 cm are set aside from the center of the dart to the right, for three - 2.5-4 cm to the left and right. The shoulder cut points are connected to the resulting points along the chest line. The chest dart solution is distributed into the number of folds provided for by the model (Fig. 7).
The folds may be soft or partially stitched. This cut is recommended for smaller busted figures to create the desired volume. In this case, folds can be replaced by gathering and puffs. For figures with big breasts this cut (with partially stitched folds) can also be recommended, but with the aim of hiding excessive volume
Replacing a bust dart with a fold at the armhole line.
Mark a fold line parallel to the armhole to the level of the chest line and then from the armhole to the center the line of the bust dart. The pattern is cut along the marked lines, simultaneously closing the chest dart. The shoulder cut is made with the resulting fold closed at the armhole (Fig. 8).
The edge of the fold can run at a distance of 1-2cm from the armhole or exactly along the armhole line. In this case, a seam allowance is added to the pattern along the armhole, and a cut is made along the intended seam for setting in the sleeve. Folds at the armhole are usually made in straight, free-form products. If the dress has a cut-off waistline, then gathers or soft folds can be placed along the shoulder section of the bodice.
Moving the bodice darts to the mid-front line.
On the bodice of the base, mark the desired direction of the dart. To do this, draw a straight line from a point located 1-2 cm below the chest line to the mid-front line at an angle. The centers of the chest and waist darts are connected. The bodice is cut along the marked lines, aligning and pinning the warp darts. The resulting tuck solution is laid towards the waist line and in this form the line of the middle front is aligned (Fig. 9).
This bodice cut is interesting for making products from striped fabrics. The mid-front line is placed on the fabric along the grain thread (and therefore along the strip). And after the dart is ground off, the strip lies on the product at an angle, along the line of the dart, connecting along the line of the middle front of the bodice in a herringbone pattern. The direction angle of the dart depends on the size of the mammary glands and the size of the waist. Therefore, when developing a bodice pattern, the direction of the dart can be found using a dummy method by pinning a fabric or paper pattern, marked with a strip, onto the figure.
Moving the bust dart to the undercut from the armhole.
At the level of 1/3 of the height of the armhole, a cutting line is marked on the base pattern. The length of the undercut should not reach 1cm from the width of the neckline. Cut the front along the intended line and close the chest dart above the undercut line, after which the dart from the armhole side will open, and the lower edge of the undercut will lengthen to form gathers (Fig. 10).
To get more gathers on the shelf, you can cut the pattern from the hem down and spread it apart on the fabric to the desired amount. Using the same principle, you can make a pattern with any shape of undercut. The location of the undercut (above or below) is determined on the figure, observing the general proportions of the product. When moving the shelf from the undercut to the side, folds can be designed in this area (Fig. 11).
Changing the silhouette of a product by transferring darts.
By moving the darts, you can change the shape and silhouette of the product. So, when transferring the shoulder dart to the waist or hip line, we get a pattern for a product with a flared silhouette (Fig. 9).
When creating a flared pattern in this way, along the side seam line you need to give an allowance in the amount of 1/2-1/4 of the allowance obtained as a result of transferring the dart.
The length of the darts is determined depending on the shape of the convexity, but it is always less than the distance from the contour of the part to the center of movement. The upper (chest) dart of the front is made 2-3 cm shorter than the distance from the shoulder to the center of the chest. The back shoulder dart is usually 7-9cm long. The length and shape of the darts are specified during fitting.
Transferring the dart to the armhole
Creating new style and when using the technique of moving the dart, you must always remember the following: in all positions and types of chest dart, its top should always be directed to the center of the bulge of the chest.
And one more important information. To achieve smoothness in the chest area, the dart is shortened by 1 - 3 cm if its sides are directed towards the shoulder seam, towards the neckline and into the armhole. And by 2 - 4 cm, if its sides are directed to the side seam, to the waist line and to the center of the front.
If you have not yet created a pattern for the base of the dress, we recommend using our step-by-step instructions.
Moving the dart into the armhole.
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
We set aside approximately 1/3 of the length of the armhole from the side line and place point D.
Note: Dividing into 3 parts is just one of many options. Can be divided into 2 parts, you can select any point on the armhole line.
Let's continue. We connect point G7 with a straight line to point D and cut the bodice along this line.
We close the chest dart, thereby opening a new dart along the cut line G7D.
Do not forget to shorten the resulting dart by 1 - 2 cm to achieve smoothness when processing the bulge in the chest area. To do this, we shift the top of the dart from the center by 1 - 2 cm and connect this top with straight lines to the ends of the dart.
We have one more bodice style.
We will use this drawing of the bodice to transfer the bust dart to the neckline, but more on that in the next article.
Methods for transferring a chest dart to a neckline
The dart along the bust line can be moved to the neckline different ways, each time getting a new style. But in principle, all transfer methods come down to three main ones: transformation into folds, gathers or darts that start from the neckline.
You will need a pattern for the base of the bodice with comfortable increases for you (loose fit), which you have already sewed on and got a good result. We do the modeling on one half of the front, the other half is identical. All numbers in the drawings below are tied to a specific figure and are given for guidance; in your case they may differ slightly.
Easy transfer of bust dart to neckline
We draw a model line on the pattern - this is the segment connecting the neck and the VTG. The new chest dart will be located along this line. Cut the pattern along the model line and one side of the chest dart. We close the dart opening and fasten its sides with tape. A new opening of the chest dart will open in the neckline, which can be sewn up or folded.
Uniform gathers along the neckline
To transform the chest dart into a uniform gathering along the neckline, draw an auxiliary arc (in red in the drawing). We draw model lines on the drawing: we divide the neck into several equal segments and from each division point we lower the segment until it intersects with the auxiliary line. We connect the ends of the segments with the VTG. We cut the pattern along the model lines, close the chest dart, revealing several small equal openings in the neck, fastening the cut parts with tape.
Pros advise
In practice, quite often, for a beautiful fluffy gather or deep folds, the solution of only one chest dart is not enough. In this case, professionals advise including a dart along the waistline in the modeling. The drawing shows that by closing it, we will get a 6cm increase in the solution without increasing the chest girth, which is very important if we do not want to get excess fabric around the bust. This modeling is only possible with a cut-off waistline.
Neck pleats
As a rule, 2 to 4 folds look good on the front neckline. A larger quantity will look like an assembly - the folds will not be clearly expressed.
We draw model lines on the pattern, as shown in the drawing below. We cut the pattern along them, close the chest dart, revealing three identical solutions in the neck.
Pros advise
When transferring the dart to the neckline, the total fold solution may be insufficient. What if the model does not have a seam waist?
We draw model lines on the drawing (in blue in the drawing) and cut the pattern along them. We close the waist dart as shown in the drawing. Align the side cut with a smooth arc.
After cutting, we pull the side cut in the area of the waist line, and iron it along the hip line using a WTO.
Important! With such a transfer of the waist dart to the neckline, the fabric should lend itself well to WTO (wet heat treatment).
We create folds and gathers along the neckline
We make folds along the neck line as in the drawing. To ensure uniform assembly, simply round off the neckline.
Don’t forget to align the side cut line with a smooth arc.
Maximum increase in dart opening along the neckline
If you want to make sure that there is enough dart solution transferred to the neckline, make a tester from calico for one half of the front.
But, if you want to further increase the opening of the folds or the pomp of the neckline, the pros advise using the armhole. This modeling can be done with both folds and gathers.
We apply model lines to the base pattern, some of which end in the armhole. We close the waist and chest darts. The additional solution will increase by 15 cm. Then distribute the solutions evenly.
Let's compare the previously done modeling with what happened with additional modeling due to the armhole. Important! The maximum possible increase in the solution can be obtained only with a cut-off waist line.
If the model is not cut at the waist, the modeling will be similar, but the waist dart is not involved. In this case, the increase in the solution will not be so significant, but suddenly it was precisely what was missing for the harmonious distribution of the assembly or folds.
Important! If your model is planned to have a yoke or an increase in the neckline, they are applied to the base pattern before modeling begins!
The article was prepared specifically for the Season website.
More than 6,000 types of fabrics in the Season online store. The prices will pleasantly surprise you - they are lower than in a real store. By clicking on the preview with the sample, you will be taken to the desired section.
My teaching activity makes me think, doubt and look for the best ways to explain: how to build this or that node. Not all methods give equally successful results for different types figures.
And at the same time, there is no point in looking for the most accurate and successful one. The very formulation of the question is amateurish. I try to explain and show with examples: all methods are good when you understand the design principle. And at the same time, none is ideal.
Let's look at the construction of the “dart solution for the bulge of the chest” knot in women's basic shoulder designs.
I recorded a short video tutorial for you with explanations and an “explanatory note” in the form of this article.
How the chest dart solution is determined in different design methods.
The complexity of this node is due to the fact that it is not possible to measure a physical indicator on the body in a direct way. Sometimes, in the author's methods, attempts are made to determine it indirectly, but it turns out only approximately. There are no reference points!
And I tell the students that the pattern basic basis- it’s easy: “measured - drawn”. In fact. This is how it is in all methods, but taking into account the nuances.
If you study more than one or two design techniques, you will be surprised at how similar they are to each other in basic principles: constructing a drawing grid and limiting construction areas to verticals and horizontals.
But it is surprising how differently the dart for the bulge of the chest looks and is calculated. It can be built from the line of the middle of the shelf (EMKO SEV), from the armhole (Zlachevskaya G.M.), but the most common option is to locate the dart from the shoulder cut. The top of the dart is always directed towards the center of the chest (CG, VG, VTG - different names for one point).
building a basic framework according to Zlachevskaya
building a basic framework for EMKO SEV
For example, in the method of G.M. Zlachevskaya uses two measurements of chest width: 1) along the convex part of the chest and 2) above the chest. If you correctly took the SHG and SHG control measurements, then the pattern will turn out to be quite accurate.
In the “Müller and Son” method, the algorithm for constructing a chest dart uses a formula that takes into account the circumference of the chest, but does not take into account the fullness of the chest.
1/10 POG (half chest circumference third). And often the solution turns out to be insufficient. Individual fit has to be adjusted: add 1-2 cm to the calculation formula.
A more complex path and more accurate construction is described in the EMKO TsOTSHL method. Two measurements of chest circumference are involved in the calculations: SG 1 and SG 2.
The depth of the dart is determined by the formula
2 (SG2-SG1) + 2 cm
Yes. The EMKO TsOTSHL technique is more accurate, but it is also more complex. More complex measurements, more reservations, tabular additions and conditions when constructing knots.
construction of a dart using the TsOTSHL method
constructing a dart using the Muller and Son method
The technique of the French designer Lin Jacques found fans due to its simplicity of explanation and construction. There are no complicated measurements or formulas here. Take the tuck depth from the plate according to the exhaust gas measurements. Or rather, determine approximately in the interval between the OG indicators of your size (here the “range” between the measurements is as much as 10 cm).
Literally in the book it is written as follows: “The solution of the chest dart cannot be determined by measuring on the figure or by simple proportional calculation based on number of measurements. This value is taken based on the exhaust gas.
In addition, the depth of the dart is adjusted depending on the posture.
If the shoulders are tilted back and the chest protrudes forward, then the size is increased by 1-2 cm
if the shoulders are tilted forward and the chest width is small, then the size should be reduced by 1-2 cm.”
chest dart solution according to Lin Jacques method
building a basic framework according to Lin Jacques
The English method of Winfred Aldrich solves the problem of finding the chest dart solution in a very similar way. The opening of the chest dart is determined by the tabular method. The data in the table looks very plausible for standard figures. Overall, this is a very good, solid and uncomplicated technique for beginners. For figures with peculiarities of posture, you should take real rather than standard measurements.
building a basic framework according to W. Aldrich
chest dart solution according to the English method
I cannot consider all the diversity of the world of design in a short article. I touched upon only the most popular techniques in the former CIS, translated into Russian.
And for dessert - Chinese design techniques, completely unusual for us.
Practicing designers in China use a small number of dimensional characteristics and calculated proportional construction.
The constructions are simple. First, a base is built without darts, and only then darts are applied to the base base.
Many Chinese methods use the principle of a right triangle, in which one of the legs is always equal to 15 cm, and the second leg is a floating value X. This value is determined by calculation method depending on the construction unit.
To determine the X value when constructing a chest dart:
(OG 3 – OG 5) / 2
Og 3 is the chest circumference at the convex points, written in full size. Dimensional sign Og5 measured immediately after measurement Og3 , having measuring tape on the back in the same place, and in front lowering it lower, under the base of the mammary glands.
Wondering about the attitude ( 15: X ) , you can build a dart on any site
shelves, directing it to the side, neckline, armhole, shoulder, side or waist sections.
building a basic framework using Chinese methods
dart depth comparison different methods with the same physical characteristics.
I hope I was able to interest you in the material. Design it yourself! It's not as difficult as it seems at first. But it’s not easy either!
If you are unable to master construction on your own using books or purchased CDs, then come to me at.
I know the reason for your failures. I say this with complete confidence. There is only one condition in my courses: work! The way I do it, with passion and without laziness.
