Crochet dresses for a teapot warmer. Knitted warmers for a teapot. Description of roses and leaves with knitting needles

To keep the tea hot longer and the infusion stronger, and just for beauty, you can tie a heating pad to the teapot.

You can knit a cover for a teapot using either crochet or knitting needles. Here you will learn how to knit a heating pad on a teapot with knitting needles and decorate it with decor in the form of knitted flowers.

In order to knit a cover for a teapot, you will need:

yarn 5 colors
buttons
decorative buttons in the shape of insects
knitting needles and hook, needle

Knitting a heating pad for a teapot:

The base of the heating pad for the teapot is knitted from two rectangles (squares) according to the size of the teapot.

In the sample teapot with a diameter of 32 cm in the wide part and a height of 16 cm, knitting density 16 loops * 23 rows = 10 * 10 cm.

Start knitting by casting on 25 stitches. Knit approximately 6.5 cm in garter stitch.

Then change the thread to blue and knit another 12 rows in stockinette stitch.

In the next row it is necessary to make decreases, since the teapot narrows towards the top. Knit a row as follows: (2 knits, 2 knit stitches together) - repeat until the end of the row, complete the knit row (19 loops will be obtained).

Continue knitting the next 5 rows in stockinette stitch according to the pattern.

Next row: knit, (yarn over, knit 2 stitches together, knit) - repeat until the end of the row.

Knit the next 3 rows in stockinette stitch and cast off all stitches.

Knit a second similar piece.

Knitting flowers:

Flowers for decorating a teapot are crocheted. Cast on a chain of 4 chain loops (CH) with yellow yarn and close it in a circle.

1st row: 8 double crochets (dc) in a ring, close the circle.

2nd row: Attach the pink thread with a connecting stitch, then knit: (4 VP, 2 double crochets with common top, 4 VP, connecting post in the same loop, connecting stitch in the next loop) - repeat 7 more times. When knitting the penultimate connecting stitch in each petal, knit it into the loop that begins that petal. You should get 8 petals. Cut the thread.

Make 6 of these flowers - 3 on each side of the cover.

Sew the flowers onto the cover as follows: Sew each flower along the edge of the yellow center in a circle and make a couple of stitches in the center of each petal so that they lie nicely. Sew a button into the center of each flower.

Using a dark green thread, embroider the stems and petals of the flowers, then sew decorative elements — ladybugs and bees or other insects you have.

Sew the cover pieces along the bottom edge (where the garter stitch is) and along the sides to the beginning of the handle and spout of the teapot.

Knit a cord of chain stitches from yellow yarn and pass it along the top of the heating pad onto the teapot into the holes formed next to the yarn overs.

On December 30, 2013 by Ms Lana Vi

Such knitted teapot warmers, in my opinion, will add uniqueness and even more home comfort to your interior. After all, now it’s so fashionable to decorate your home with products self made. But, it seems to me, this is not so much a tribute to fashion, but rather a beautiful alternative to factory and mass production.In addition, more and more private studios and galleries are appearing, even on the Internet, which glorify the master and bring people extraordinary pleasure with their great ideas.

These warmers or covers can be a great gift yours close friend or a relative who appreciates manual labor and a flight of irrepressible imagination.

Knitted warmer for a teapot in garter stitch

It turns out a very interesting and convex canvas if you apply garter stitch with horizontal rows of purl loops. Perhaps someone will have other ideas on how to knit the proposed pattern. Please share them in the comments.

Knitted kettle warmer in stockinette stitch

The model is made with the simplest knitting, but the melange yarn adds a “zest” to such a warmer, well, if you don’t take into account that the teapot itself has become unusually prettier.

Knitted teapot warmer with scales pattern

She seemed especially beautiful to me. Moreover, this pattern can be made either by knitting or crocheting, but I selected the diagram and video specifically for knitting. Tie the top of the heating pad with a regular elastic band (front loop to back loop) and tighten with a rope. Lace is a chain of air loops crocheted. I think that 30 centimeters in length will be enough.

Scheme for the “scales” pattern with knitting needles:

I used this pattern in my short pullover here.

VIDEO master class on how to knit this “scales” pattern with knitting needles:

Knitted teapot warmers with floral motifs

Many patterns with a variety of knitted colors, both crocheted and knitted. The same applies to leaves. The base of the warmers is the same stockinette stitch.

VIDEO master class in English on how to knit a rose:

Description of roses and leaves with knitting needles

NECESSARY:

25 grams of silver or golden Starlight yarn (polyacrylic - 75%, metal fibers - 16%, polyester - 9%, where there are 45 meters in 25 grams);
50 grams of white Brazilia yarn (100% polyester, where there are 90 meters in 50 grams of yarn);
regular knitting needles and double knitting needles 3 mm - 4 mm.

Knitting a scarf: knit and purl rows - knit stitches.

Leaves with knitting needles: knit according to the proposed patterns A and B, where only the front rows are indicated, the purl rows are knitted according to the description. Repeat 1R (times) from the first to the 19th row or 1R (times) from the first to the 23rd row.

KNITTING DENSITY in garter stitch: 20 stitches x 38 rows = 10cm x 10cm.

FLOWER DESCRIPTION:

for the flower, tie a long strip. To do this, cast on 3 loops and knit with garter stitch, while adding 6P (times) x 1P (loop) in each 4 row and 4P (times) x 1P (loop) in each 8 row. For increases, it is necessary to knit 1 knit crossed loop from a transverse thread at the end of the front row to the edge loop = 13 loops at a height of 15 centimeters. At a height of 30 centimeters, decrease 1 loop, in every 8 row 4P (times) x 1P (loop) and in every 4 row 5P (times) x 1P (loop). For decreases, knit in the front row up to 3 loops from the end of the row, then knit 2P (loops) together with the front one. After 3 rows, bind off the remaining 3 loops = 45 centimeters.

PRODUCT ASSEMBLY:

Knit 1 leaf according to pattern A and 1 leaf according to pattern B. After the 19th or 23rd rows, tighten the remaining 3 loops with a working thread. For the flower, pull the thread into the rounded edge and pull it together, twisting it at the same time, giving it the shape of a rose, and baste the bottom edge with stitches.

Baste and sew the leaves with the bottom edges to the rose (look at the photo). For flower B, additionally tie and then attach 3 laces, each 20 centimeters long, of which 1 is white and 2 are silver. To do this, cast on 4 loops on the stocking needles and knit as follows: * move the loops to the other end of the knitting needle, slightly stretch the thread and knit, repeat from *.

In this model, you need to take a “checkerboard” pattern, i.e. knit, for example, 4 facial loops alternately with 4 purl loops, until the end of the row. And in height apply an alternation of 4 rows (2 even and odd rows each).

VIDEO master class on how to crochet a rose:

VIDEO master class on how to crochet leaves:

Knitted teapot warmer with English elastic band

English rib is the most popular pattern for knitting hats, berets and scarves. This model of teapot warmer is also crocheted with an English elastic band. This pattern is good because it easily takes shape, so it can be used very successfully for such decorative decorations.

Description for the elastic pattern:

For the pattern, you need to cast on an odd number of loops and it is best to knit edge loops this way: never knit 1 edge loop, but simply re-knit it on right knitting needle, and always knit the last edge loop with a purl loop. This way you will get beautiful and neat side edges of your canvas.

first row - 1LP, yarn over, 1P (loop) remove without knitting ( working thread located behind the knitting), etc.
second row - yarn over, remove 1P (loop) without knitting (the working thread is behind the knitting), knit the loop and yarn over of the previous row together, etc.
third row - knit the loop and yarn over of the previous row together, knit, yarn over, remove 1P (loop) without knitting (working thread behind knitting)
Next, alternate the second and third rows.

A video master class on how to knit this elastic band or a patent one can be viewed at.

Knitted teapot warmer with arans

Scheme to central pattern is in, and also below I have given a similar pattern, which is complemented by cones.

Scheme of the aran pattern with the addition of cones:

I hope you not only enjoyed watching it, but also found something useful for your future products.

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Related knitted heating pad for a teapot, decorated with knitted flowers, will please the eye during tea drinking for you and your guests. The description of knitting a heating pad for a teapot is very simple, and the work itself will not take much time.

For knitting, you can use various leftover acrylic yarn, light beige colour for knitting the main part, red and different shades pink for knitting flowers and a little green for knitting leaves. You can use short sock needles 2 pieces No. 3.

At the beginning tie the main part of the heating pad clasping the teapot. Knit the rectangular piece across, alternating 5 rows stockinette stitch and 5 rows purl stitch. This type of knitting is also called cross elastic, as it slightly tightens the fabric, which is necessary for tying a teapot.

Cast on loops as long as the teapot's height and knit a piece with a length equal to the girth from the handle to the spout of the teapot being tied. For the hole for the spout, close the loops in the center to the required width, and in the next row, cast on the same number of loops using the air method. Knit the second part of the part from the spout to the handle.

Using a needle and thread (you can insert the needle into the remaining knitting tail), make stitches along the top of the heating pad and pull it off. Sew the side of the handle, leaving a hole for the handle.

The elastic knitted fabric will fit the teapot well, while at the same time the lower part remains free. After brewing tea, the heating pad can be placed on top of the teapot, like a cap.

To decorate the teapot, tie 5 leaves made of green yarn and 3 bright flowers.

For knitting a leaf Cast on 5 stitches onto a knitting needle. Row 1: P2, K1, P2.

2nd row: chrome, k1, add 1p. from crossed broach, purl 1, add 1 stitch. from crossed broach, k2.

3rd row: chrome, p2, k1, p3.

4th row: edge, k2, add 1p. from crossed broach, purl 1, add 1 stitch. from crossed broach, 3 persons.

5th row: chrome, p3, k1, p4.

Inc around center stitch 3 more times on rows 6, 8 and 10. Then knit 8 rows without increasing. Next, in each even row, decrease two knit stitches slanting to the left before the center loop and two knit stitches together after it. When the last 3 stitches remain on the knitting needle, knit them together, cut and fasten the thread.

Remove the edge loops so that the edge is formed into knots.

At the base of the leaf, you don’t have to cut the long end of the thread. Thread this thread through a needle and sew the leaf to the top of the warmer. Sew 5 leaves around the top of the heating pad.

The heating pad is put on over the top and fastened with a button under the handle. Can be made without a button - with two holes for the spout and for the handle

Materials and tools

Brown or beige yarn - for the body and head of the hedgehog. I used semi-woolen yarn Semenovskaya "Natasha", 250 m per 100 g.

Yarn in gray and white (or light gray) colors - for a hedgehog’s fur coat. I had acrylic yarn (no name), about 200 m per 100 g.

Green yarn - for a heating pad. My acrylic yarn is thinner than Natasha. Knitted in two threads.

Thin yarn (cotton is best - "Iris", "daisy", "coco", "rose"): black - for the nose and muzzle, Brown- for tightening the muzzle, green - for blades of grass and leaves, colored - for flowers.

Crochet hooks.

Monofilament.

Sewing needle.

A needle with a large eye (the so-called “gypsy”).

Two beads for eyes (eyes can also be embroidered or purchased).

Wire for the leg frame.

Beads, seed beads, sequins, etc. for finishing the product.

Filler for the head and body of a hedgehog.

Acrylic paints and brush (optional).

Kettle.

Abbreviations and terms in the text:

sc - single crochet; pp - half loop; ss - connecting column;

VP - air loop; increase - two stitches in one loop; decrease - knit two loops together;

amigurumi ring— we wrap the yarn around our finger (two turns), and tie the resulting ring with single crochets. Remove it from your finger and tighten it by pulling the free end of the thread.

I decided to place a hedgehog on such a small teapot

1) We knit the body of the hedgehog (the top of the heating pad).

We knit with single crochets in a spiral (without lifting loops).

4-9th rows: one increase in each row = 24 sc

We make increments with an offset so that the knitting expands evenly.

10-12th rows: 3 increases in each row = 33 sc

Rows 13-15: 33 sc each

2) Knitting the base of a heating pad

Attach green yarn and knit in a spiral. We make increments according to the shape of the teapot. I got 3 increases in a row.

3) When we have knitted to the upper bases of the spout and handle, we knit the two sides of the heating pad separately (if the spout and handle are on the same, or almost the same level). So I knitted a heating pad "Sheep on the Hill". But on this kettle, the upper base of the handle is higher than the spout. Therefore, I continued knitting in turning rows with one fabric. For the cutout under the handle, I left three loops undone
4.

4) Having knitted it to the upper base of the spout, I continued to knit the two halves (sides) of the heating pad separately. I made one increase per row, on each side of the heating pad. When the knitting reached the maximum width of the kettle, I continued knitting without any increases. If the last row of the first sidewall ends near the spout, then we knit a chain of air loops and leave it loose. We will later need this chain to connect the two halves of the heating pad.

When knitting in rotary rows, the texture of the fabric is different from the texture when knitting in a spiral. Therefore, in order for the sides of the heating pad to look exactly the same, we begin to knit the second side, as if continuing to knit the first row of the first side, leaving several loops unknitted (for me these are three loops). I hope I didn't explain it too confusingly :)

5.

5) When both halves of the heating pad are connected, we connect them with a chain of air loops. Make the chain such a length that it fits around the nose quite freely. Attach the chain by knitting a connecting stitch into the first loop of the row
6.

Attention! When knitting a chain of air loops under the spout, we do not tie the chain with stitches, but knit stitches on the half loops of the chain.

We do not knit the heating pad to the very bottom - we leave room for tying
7.

7) We tie the cutout for the handle and the hole for the spout with a row of single crochets and a row of connecting posts.

8) We tie the bottom of the heating pad lush columns.

Tying with lush columns. We knit a single crochet into the first loop of the row. In the second loop we knit a fluffy stitch of 3-5 double crochets, then we knit an air loop and again a single crochet in the third loop of the row. In this way we knit the entire row. More relief pattern it turns out if between the lush columns you knit not a single crochet, but a connecting column
10.

9) For the jumper fastener, we cast on a chain of air loops of the required length (I have 4 loops). Then we continue to knit the chain for the buttonhole (I got 10 chain loops). We form a loop using a connecting post (I made a ss in the 11th loop from the hook). Knitted, tried on - the button should fit into the loop without effort. We knit connecting posts on the half loops of the chain. Having reached the end of the chain, we knit a continuation of the chain of air loops and connect it into a ring. We knit a ss on the second half loops of the chain and continue to knit a ss on the chain that forms the loop, and then in a circle (shown by black arrows). Having knitted a ss on the second loop, you can stop there. If you want to make the jumper wider, you can knit another circle of connecting posts
11.

10) We sew buttons on the leg. There are many master classes on sewing buttons on the Internet. Or you can immediately take a button with a leg.

The base of the heating pad is connected!

12.

11) Let's return to our hedgehog. In order for it to be plump and keep its shape, we need to stuff it. But at the same time, it should fit freely onto the teapot. To do this, we will connect this inner part - a cone.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd-3rd rows: 6 increases in each row = 18 sc

4-7th rows: 3 increases in each row = 30 sc

8-9th rows: 1 increase in each row = 32 sc

Note. We make one column less in the last row than we did in the last row of the outer cone-body. This is so that this inner part, like a nesting doll, can be freely inserted into the outer
13.

12) We put the cone into the body of the hedgehog. Carefully sew with monofilament, leaving a hole for stuffing. We put stuffing into the top of the head, but so that the bottom doesn’t stick out - we make the stuffing medium-density. There is no need to put padding between the walls of the outer and inner parts - the thickness there is already sufficient. We sew up the hole and try on the heating pad once again.

14.

13) Knitting a hedgehog's head

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2-7th rows: 3 increases in each row = 24 sc

8th row: 6 increases = 30 sc

Rows 9-11: 30 sc.

12th row: 3 decreases = 27 sc

13th row: 3 decreases = 24 sc

This is the onion head we got

15.

14) We knit ears Thus. Insert the hook under the leg of the post in the intended place and pull out the loop. We knit a chain of four air loops. Stepping back a little, we attach the chain to the head with a connecting post. The result is a loop - the base of the ear. We unfold the knitting and tie a loop of 6-8 sc (we knit the sc by inserting the hook under the chain, and not into the loops of the chain). We end with a connecting post in the same place where we started the chain. We bring the ponytails to the back of the head through the thickness of the fabric using a needle and secure them with knots
16.

We knit the second ear in the same way. This is how we did it. Already looks like a muzzle
17.

15) Embroider the muzzle. The initial and last knots are made at the tip of the muzzle. Then this place will be closed with the nose.

16) We knit the nose.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2-4th rows: 6 increases in each row = 24 sc

5-7 row: 24 sc each

8th row: 3 decreases = 21 sc

We leave a long tail and, with its help, sew the nose to the muzzle (don’t forget to put in a lump of filler).

18.

17) Making an eye tightener. With a thin marker we mark two points where we plan to make the eyes (I was too lazy to do this and then redid the tightening). We take a thin but strong thread to match the head (I have “Iris”) and a long needle. We secure the thread with a knot in the intended place. We pierce the head with a needle and remove the needle at the second designated point. We make a small stitch and pass the needle in the opposite direction, bringing it out at the first point. We tighten the thread to create depressions. We repeat the entire procedure one or two more times. We fasten the thread and hide the tail in the thickness of the fabric
19.

18) Tinting the depressions acrylic paint . This step is optional, but I like to do it - the eyes turn out more expressive. Take a brush and moisten the hollows with clean water. We wet the area a little larger than necessary. Divorce brown paint until it becomes ink, put it on a brush and apply it to the middle of each depression. The paint will distribute itself over the damp canvas as it should. Dry and repeat if necessary. It is better to use universal acrylic paint for artistic or design work. Unlike acrylic fabric paint, it does not require heat treatment to cure. When dry, it becomes indelible, and the heating pad can be easily washed.

19) Sew or glue the eyes.

The muzzle is ready!

20.

20) We sew the head to the body with monofilament
21.

21) We knit the paws.

Upper.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 2 increases = 8 sc

3rd row: 8 sc

4th row: 1 decrease = 7 sc

5-6th rows: 7 sc each

Leave a long tail

Lower ones.

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 3 increases = 9 sc

3-5th rows: 9 sc each

6th row: 1 decrease = 8 sc

Rows 7-13: 8 sc each

Leave a long tail.

You can tint the paws. To do this, wet them down to the middle of their length with clean water (you can directly dip them in water and squeeze them out). Then we dip the very tips of the paws into diluted brown paint a third of the length and then into black paint. Dry it. If necessary, repeat the procedure. The photo shows already tinted and dried paws
22.

22) We twist the wire to a length equal to the length of the upper leg. We pierce the body through the free end of the wire (first make a hole using a thick needle or knitting needle). We twist the wire for the second leg, cut off the tip

23) We put the paws on the frame and sew them with the remaining tails of yarn.

23.

24) We do the same with the lower legs. Only the wire should not pass through the entire body, but between the outer and inner layers. We bend the paws as we like
24.

25) Making pompoms for a hedgehog's fur coat.

We take yarn of two colors (I have dark gray and the color of unbleached linen).

We wind the yarn onto the template (book). You don’t need to wrap it tightly; for this it’s better to put something under it (I put a rolled up sheet of paper under it). The number of turns is determined experimentally - it all depends on the thickness of the yarn. You can first make one pompom per small piece cardboard and see how much yarn is needed.

After the yarn has been wound, take out the backing (twisted paper) and divide the winding into 4 cm long sections, tying with strong thin threads (I used Iris gray). We wrap the yarn with thread twice, then make a straight knot and an additional couple of simple knots. We leave the tails longer.

It turned out like a bunch of sausages. We cut our bundle between the knots.

Lightly trim the resulting pompoms (cut off only the threads that stick out too much).

If you don’t get the required number of pompoms, you can screw a few additional ones on a small piece of cardboard.

There is a lot of information on how to tie a straight knot.

26) Let's start dressing our hedgehog.

We attach the first pompom to the hedgehog’s “forehead”. Using a hook, we drag the tails under the leg of the sc in the right place (attach the pompom first and see where you need to attach it).

We pull up both ends of the thread and tie it with a straight knot and, for security, a couple more simple knots. We cut the threads.

Do not cut the threads at the knot itself, leave small tails - this will guarantee that the knot will definitely not come undone, and the threads will not be visible in the mass of pompoms
3.

We continue tying the pompoms. The photo shows the order in which the pompoms are attached to the hedgehog's head.

This is the kind of hat we got :)

6.

This photo shows the sequence of attaching pompoms to the body of a hedgehog
7.

After all the pompoms are tied, we make a model haircut. And now, the hedgehog is ready!

We knit fly agarics

27) Big mushroom.

hat

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2-11th rows: 2 increases in each row = 26 sc

12-14th rows: 4 increases in each row = 38 sc

Leg

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 3 increases = 9 sc

3-4th rows of 9 sc

5th row: 1 decrease = 8 sc

6-7th rows: 8 sc each

8th row: on the front (near) half-loops we knit 2 rows of sc, each time knitting 2 sc in each half-loop. It turns out to be a mushroom collar. We finish knitting with a connecting stitch and cut off the thread. Attach the thread again and knit 8 sc on the purl (distant) half-loops.

Rows 9-11: 8 sc each

Rows 12-16, 6 increases per row = 38 sc

28) Small mushroom.

hat

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 6 increases = 12 sc

3-6th rows: 1 increase in each row = 16 sc

7-8th rows: 2 increases in each row = 20 sc

9th row: 4 increases = 24 sc

Leg

1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring

2nd row: 2 increases = 8 sc

3-6th rows: 8 sc each

7-8th rows: 6 increases in each row = 20 sc

9th row: 4 increases = 24 sc

10.

29) Stuff the leg with filler. Place a lump of filler at the top of the cap. We connect the cap and the lower part of the mushroom by knitting a row of sc. Additionally, you can knit a series of connecting posts
11.

30) We embroider white specks on the hat. At the top of the head we make fewer specks (one stitch) and place them more often. Below the specks we make them larger (2 and 3 stitches) and place them less frequently.

31) We sew fly agarics to the heating pad using monofilament thread. First we sew on the legs, and then the edges of the caps touching the heating pad fabric
12.

Decorating the heating pad

32) We embroider blades of grass with thin yarn. I embroidered the curls with a chain stitch using a crochet hook.
13.

33) We knit the leaves according to the pattern shown in the photo.

If you want to make the leaf smaller or larger, then simply change the number of loops in the initial chain and, accordingly, the number of double crochets in the center of the leaf
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34) There are many schemes in a wide variety of colors. For decorating warmers, I like these. They knit very simply.

We knit 5 sc into the amigurumi ring.

We connect the last and first stitch with a connecting stitch and knit two air loops.

In the same base loop we knit three double crochets and again knit 2 ch.

We make a connecting column into the second loop of the base - we get the first petal.

We knit 2 ch again and repeat the whole process - we get the second petal.

We knit all five petals in this way.

We tuck the end of the yarn to the wrong side and secure it with a knot.

The initial row can be made from 6 sc - you get 6 petals.

The photo shows a diagram of a similar flower, but bigger size. We knit not two, but three chain stitches and, accordingly, not 3 double crochets, but 3 double crochets
15.

Flowers can be tinted with acrylic paint. To do this, moisten the flower with clean water (without touching the edges of the petals) and apply the diluted paint with a brush. Dry it. We embroider the centers of the flowers with beads or sew on a bead. You can also use sequins
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35) We sew flowers and leaves to the heating pad using monofilament thread
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18.

When you start decorating the heating pad, make sure that the decor is not located close to the handle. It is better to first pin all the parts with pins and check whether it is convenient to take the kettle. Also, do not sew anything close to the buttons.
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It's under the spout where the heating pad gets dirty the most. Therefore, do not sew anything in this place. When washing a heating pad, it is recommended to rub this place with a brush, as excess parts will get in the way
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A couple of tips for beginners.

When knitting a heating pad, all tails of yarn must be knitted into the fabric or removed into the thickness of the fabric using a needle (there are many tips and master classes on how best to do this). Decorative details are best sewn on with monofilament. It is thin, strong and transparent. Sold in any craft supply stores. Ideally, only the chain stitch line should be visible on the wrong side of the warmer. Equally neat on both the front and back sides, even the most simple thing make it high quality and attractive. Also make sure that the knitting is tight. The surface of the kettle should not be visible through the fabric of the heating pad, and the stuffing of the hedgehog should not be visible.

That's it, that's all. Good luck!

And here is the finished heating pad: