Dog made of wool. Dog. Dry felting technique from wool, master class How to make a dog from wool

Felting dog hair in 4 stages

For crafts using the technique of dry and wet felting, wool from the various types, in particular, camel, sheep and even dog In general, felting wool is a quite exciting and interesting process that both adults and children can do. To purchase required material and a tool, it won’t take a lot of effort and time, since any craft store has such devices. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the fact that a special needle is used for felting, and several sizes with different sections and sizes are required for 1 work.

Making felting from dog hair in a washing machine: master class

Felting decorative dogs is quite possible at home, since the process is not complicated, but it will require patience and perseverance. It is worth noting that felting, which uses a washing machine, is now very popular.

This type of felting is recognized as the simplest and easiest and perfect for beginners.

The product will require a dense mold, which will be used for deboning. It is wrapped in wool and placed in a golf course made of nylon fabric.

In the process of felting dog hair in washing machine most often they use nylon tights, which should be without arrows or holes

Master Class:

The blank of the future toy part is placed in a pre-prepared nylon bag and sent to the washing machine.
A detergent for washing woolen items is poured into the desired compartment.
The washing mode is set without soaking and without drying.
The temperature should be selected at 40-50 ᵒC.

After the washing is completed, you can take out the finished, felted parts. It is advisable to remove the parts as carefully as possible so as not to damage the integrity. After this, each part is assembled into a single toy.

Wet felting from dog hair for beginners: instructions

Wet felting is a little more complicated than the previous method, but no less popular. In this case, wet felting is carried out from dog hair using gauze and soap solution.

The material is laid out on the surface of the gauze according to a pre-prepared pattern.

To make a soap solution, you need to grind pieces of soap into shavings, preferably a couple of pieces. Next, the mixture is poured with boiling water (2 l). Everything is thoroughly mixed and left for 2 hours until completely thickened. After this, you can begin working with dog hair, the master class of which is very simple and you do not need to attend lengthy felting lessons to achieve mastery.

Wet felting from dog wool is done using a soap solution, and always warm

Instructions:

An oilcloth is spread on the surface of the table.
Gauze is placed.
It is necessary to lay the base, then the background and ornament of the future drawing.
The threads need to be laid out in crosses and stripes. In this case, you should ensure that there are no holes in the canvas, and that the material is laid perpendicularly. The thickness of the entire canvas should be perfectly even.

After the process of laying out the material is completed and compliance with the intended scheme is checked, you need to sprinkle it with water. Next, the canvas is covered nylon material and coated with soapy water. Excess liquid is removed with a napkin. Next, you need to gradually and not sharply rub the canvas by hand, now the workpiece with plastic wrap. Thus, the material gradually falls off and becomes single canvas with a pattern, for example, of a dog.

Dry felting a dog: stages

A dog using the dry felting technique is an equally simple option for beginners. To complete the work, you will need to prepare unspun wool, as well as needles that have special notches.

The peculiarity of dry felting is the tangling of wool fibers with each other, due to which they are gradually transformed into felt.

This felting is carried out by using a needle with a triangular or star-shaped cross-section. After preparing the wool, corners and a piece of foam rubber, you can proceed to practice. The material is placed on foam rubber and begins to tangle with needles. The base of the crafts can be made of padding polyester, which is covered with wool on top.

Dry felting allows you to create original souvenirs in the form of animals and other products of your choice

Nuances:

When working with a needle, you need to be as careful as possible so as not to get hurt or break the tip.
The needle should be held perpendicular to the foam.
In the process of forming any felt crafts, the thickest needle is initially taken, which is gradually replaced by thinner ones.

If there are flaws on the item, they are smoothed out by using an additional, but small amount of sulfur.

Master class on felting a dog from wool

To make a dog felting, you will need wool, a needle, a sponge, scissors, glue, and a toy spout. In this case, a spaniel dog will be made. Felting starts from the head. Take white wool to felt the ball. Next, the oblong part falls down, so that on one side it remains intact.

Due to the unused end, the body and head are connected. The entire head is worked out with a needle to eliminate the appearance of joints. If necessary, you can add some wool. Felting is carried out as tightly as possible. The line of the cheeks and mouth is outlined. The nose does not need to be marked as it will be glued.

The dog's body should bend slightly as it will be in a sitting position. To felt the hind legs, you first need to make a ball, and then give it a flattened appearance. The balls are tried on the body to see if they are the right size. Both parts are prepared and pressed onto the body. Thus, 2 hind legs are made.

By correctly performing all the stages of the master class on felting a dog from wool, you will get a wonderful product

Similarly, you need to make 2 front legs and place them on the body. For making a ponytail? Black wool is suitable. Likewise, the top part is left uncovered to attach the tail to the dog's body. Black wool will also be needed for the ears, which should have a teardrop shape. They are installed on the dog's head. The back surface of the head is decorated with black wool.

The eyes are formed with exactly the same material, and the forehead should remain white. The nose is installed in its rightful place using transparent glue. For eyebrows, brown wool is suitable. Don't forget about the pupils of the eyes. Next, to complete the work, you need to go over the entire surface of the product with a needle to eliminate hairs and defects. If necessary? Too long and unnecessary hairs are cut off with scissors.

Felting a dog from wool (video)

Such creativity can attract both children and their parents, as it develops motor skills, logical thinking and spatial perception. Creating with your own hands original toys? can I use them? both for home decoration and as gifts for loved ones.

Our master class will tell you how to make a wool belt with your own hands. A belt or belt is necessary for a person. They are needed to maintain clothing on the body, to decorate it, and to complement the ensemble. This is a necessary and important element. Belts and sashes are available for men, women, and children. There are many types and purposes of belts. Our task today is to make a healing belt.

We will need:

Dog or cat hair - at least 50 grams.
Textile.
Elastic band (6-7 cm).
Elastic band 50-60 cm long.
Velcro 20 cm.

A dog's fur has a special structure, it is endowed with medicinal properties. Wool products improve blood circulation and warm your back well. The belt can seriously help with rheumatism or when you have a serious cold in your back. We spread the wool onto the film.

First row. We lay the wool on the cellophane from right to left with a slight overlap.

The second row is the opposite - from left to right, also overlapping. The third row is applied like the first. The fourth is like the second. The result is a pie about 35/80 cm.

Next, prepare a soap solution. Plane the soap and dissolve it in hot water. The soap should be the simplest, without glycerin and additives. It is more convenient to pour the resulting solution into a spray bottle, but you can also simply pour it into a jar. Wet the wool with a hot soapy solution until our “pie” becomes thinner. It is very important not to damage the layers! Otherwise, felting may not work.

We turn it over, wind it again and continue rolling.

The size has decreased - don’t be alarmed, this is how it should be. The next stage is washing. Rinse with hot water in a basin. It is better to do this with conditioner to remove the dog smell. There is a lot of waste during washing.

Let the water drain. Dry the resulting felt, but not on the radiator. Better in the sun or outside. Steam with an iron, which will give the wool greater density. Comb gently with a slicker brush to remove any prickly guard hairs. Next, take scissors and cut off the excess.

You can leave the belt as is, just sew on a couple of straps and wear it, but we’ll make it more comfortable.

In the future we will need a sewing machine, but we can sew it by hand. The dimensions turned out to be 20/60 cm. We adjust it to suit you or the person for whom you made the belt. The work is done.

The master class was conducted by Tatyana and Yulia Glushkov.

Materials:
coarse, medium and fine needles for felting;
sponge or mat for felting;
combed tape (tops) white, fineness approximately 23 microns;
carded wool Brown, fineness approximately 23 microns;
eyes for Teddy bears or buttons/beads suitable size;
molded nose of suitable size;
second or universal glue;
pastel crayons and tinting brushes;
acrylic artistic varnish spray for fixing tinting.

We start to hang our heads.

It consists of two parts. We tear off two pieces of wool from the combed tape. The first is 17-20 cm long, and the second is slightly shorter - 12-15 cm. From the first piece we form a ball - this will be the base of the head. Constantly scrolling, using a coarse needle we compact it onto a sponge or mat. The needle should go into the fur as deeply as possible. From the second piece we make a cone-shaped part - a spout.

Both blanks should be dense on the inside, and loose enough on the outside so that parts can be welded to them. When pressed, the workpieces are slightly dented and spring under your fingers. We press the parts together and begin to dump them together. The needle goes both from the cone deep into the ball and from the ball into the cone.

Now we will line the workpiece with small strands of wool - this way we will further strengthen the connection of the two components of the head and also hide the ugly seam.

In the lower part of the head, to which the neck will be attached, the hair should remain loose for better adhesion of the parts.

The body also consists of two parts. The lower part of the body will be spherical; for it we will take a piece of wool about 20 cm long.

For the upper body oval shape You will need a piece of wool about 15 cm long.

Working with a coarse and then a medium needle, we press both parts evenly until they are tight and, pressing them against each other, we connect them together.

We coat the workpiece, simultaneously giving it a teardrop shape.

Leave the upper edge of the neck unfilled and loose.

For front paws tear off a piece of wool 15 cm long from the combed ribbon and divide it lengthwise into two equal parts. From these we will form two identical paws. We fold the wool in half and begin to roll the workpiece evenly, giving it a cylindrical shape.

Don’t forget to leave tufts of wool unfelted at the joints of the parts. When the workpiece is compacted and slightly reduced, you can begin to form the fingers. On the fold side we will make markings - “draw” three dividing lines using the middle needle.

And let's shape the fingers.

We prepare the second paw in the same way. Both blanks must be the same in thickness and length. Now let's form the necessary bends and use a needle to fix them in the desired position.

For the manufacture of lower limbs You will need a little more wool, since here we will form another heel and knee. Take a bunch of wool about 18-20 cm long and also divide it lengthwise into two equal parts. Fold each one in half and create two hind legs.

First, similarly to the front paws, we felt the toes from the fold side, then we evenly felt the segment corresponding to the size of the foot, and only after that we proceed to “sculpting” the heel - we bend the workpiece in the place where it should be, and, gradually compacting the wool at the bend, create the required form.

From the remaining bunch we will outline the knee; it should be quite loose and small.

We bring the hind legs to the body. We find the desired position of the paws and carefully try them on. We straighten the unfelted wool at the edges of the workpiece and connect it to the body. We form the thigh by adding the required amount of wool.

When pressing the parts together, you need to remember that the needle must go very deep into the thickness of the wool. This will ensure reliable fixation and improve the quality of work.

We are increasing the necessary volumes, because our hero is still very small and rather chubby. We apply tufts of wool of the required size in the area of the tummy, hips, compact it evenly and at the same time smooth out all the unevenness.

Now we try on the front legs, find the desired position for them and roll the blanks to the body.

As always, we try to insert the needle as deep as possible at the joints of the parts.

We increase the required volume in the chest area.

We connect the head with the body.

We straighten the wool at the ends of the blanks, firmly fix them in the desired position and roll them against each other. By applying small pieces of wool in the neck area, we shape its thickness and length to the desired size.

We continue to add wool where it is necessary to create the required volumes. We are increasing occipital part head, smooth out the transitions from the neck to the head and shoulders.
We outline with a rough needle eye sockets.

The boundaries of the depressions should be clear, even and strictly correspond to the size of the eyes. Each eye should lie flat in its socket. We carefully ensure that the eyes are at the same level, in the same plane and looking in the direction we need. Add the missing volume to the cheeks and forehead. We prepare a flat platform for the nose.

Using a rough needle we “draw” mouth- repeatedly insert the needle deeply in a row along the entire contour of the mouth, achieving the formation of a clear, neat groove.

We evenly roll the entire workpiece to a dense state.

Place a small piece of wool on the sponge and felt it tail. Its base should be thicker than the tip.

Let's try on the tail and, having fluffed the edges of the part, we roll it to the body, as always at this stage of work, inserting the needle deeply into the wool.

After coupling, the parts should not “lobble”. While the workpiece is still loose, give the necessary bend to the tail and secure it tightly with a needle.

For ears Take the same amount of brown carded carding and distribute it on a sponge in the form of triangles. Using a thin needle, we will give the desired shape, bending it well on all sides, except for the edge that we will attach to the head.

Let's try on the ears and felt them according to the basting.

Let's add a few funny brown spots to the surface of the body. We roll the carded pieces of the required size deep with a thin needle. We apply the stains very tightly; under no circumstances should they “hang” on the surface.

Elena did her best and captured the whole process in detail in photographs (there are more than a hundred of them). The work is not easy, time-consuming, NOT for a couple of hours, since to create this it is necessary to make many parts from different color wool But it's definitely worth it to show up in your home!

So, this is the dog you will end up with:

To create our Beagles - DIY dogs prepare:

Dog - symbol of 2018 made of wool master class:

First, you need to comb semi-fine wool for easier felting (recommendation: start any felting with semi-fine wool, as it is stiffer and holds its shape well, and then roll it on top with thin wool, which looks much neater and is easier to “felt out”).
The next step is to tear off three pieces of wool of different sizes (see photo below).
Make two balls - a large one (this is the future head), a little smaller (for the muzzle). Tear off small wool clouds and felt them.
Now fuse the two balls together, making a “cloud” along the seam line for a smooth transition.
Take the third piece of wool (the largest) and felt the body of our symbol of 2018. It should be slightly elongated and rounded on one side. Do not felt the other side - leave the edge open so that you can then felt the head in this place.
Roll over the cheeks, nose and mouth.
It will look something like this:
Lay your head down DIY dogs to the body with the open, non-felt side, first fluff it slightly, making a “collar”. Also roll the seam with a wool cloud.
It will turn out something like this:
And from the back like this:
And another front view for clarity:
You can roll the entire result with fine wool.
Now take approximately equal pieces of wool to make the hind legs.
Felt as shown in the photo:
And roll the paws to the body:
Add some wool to the transition line and to the hips:
If you wish, the legs (more precisely, their ends) can be modified (go through with a thin needle at the end). It is better to do this before the front paws fall down.
Next, we form sausages from two equal-sized pieces of wool. Roll along and twist continuously. Bend the ends slightly to form palms and fingers.
Finish the front paws so that they become firm and proportional, finally go through with a thin needle, if you wish, shape the toes.
Flatten your paws to your body wool dogs, and also make shoulders by adding wool. Sand with a fine needle.
We look, evaluate, add more wool where necessary.
On the head and chest you usually always need to add more, so look critically. The chest should stick out, and the paws in front should be on the sides of the chest.
Here's what they added on the cheeks, lower jaw and face:
At the same time, we sand so that the face remains smooth after adding wool.
Let's start making the spout. Felt a little black wool very gently and carefully into the desired area. Start with the outline, then move to the middle.
Draw out the nostrils in the nose, use a photo of a real dog to do this.
The photo shows a little where the holes are located.
27. Make indentations for our eyes symbol of 2018 made of wool.28. Do you like the proportions? Then start “coloring” Beagles with colored wool. In this case, a photo of a live Beagle will not hurt, but will only help you! First, tear the wool into small pieces to make it easier to straighten later. 29. The spots can be symmetrical or not, depending on what photo you have.
30. Mine has a black spot on its back:
31. Lightly roll white fine wool over the white areas for evenness:

Like this DIY dog made of wool it turns out:

32. And iron a little more without adding wool:
33. Time to match our eyes dog made of wool. You can use different eyes - for example, glass self made or convex buttons coated with varnish, or you can even mold them yourself from plastic and paint them... Whatever your heart desires. You can sew it with a large needle or glue it with glue.
34. Sewing is simple: stick the needle in the place of the future ear, bring it out near the eye, grab a button or eye and stick it into the same hole, bringing the needle out in the same place where you stuck it (the place of the future ear); Tie the two ends tightly and hide the threads in the body.
35. Make eyelids and eyebrows for our Beagle. To do this, take two approximately identical pieces of eyelid wool and start felting in the middle.

Fold future eyelids in half.
Fold the eyelids more tightly only on one side, the other you will roll to the face around the eye.
Seal the edge of the eyelid.
36. Roll your eyelids to your face.

If you wish, you can add white under the eye - the white of the eye. Use a thin needle and wool, do everything carefully.
37. Make eyebrows in the same way as eyelids, giving them the desired shape. See photo.
38. Now it's time for the ponytail. First make a sausage from a small piece of wool. Twist the tail for uniformity as you felt.
Leave the edge for attaching to the body unfelted.
Roll part of the tail with black wool - color it, then straighten it with a thin needle.

39. Open the unfelted end of the ponytail and press it to the body with a rough needle.
A little more black wool for leveling.

40. Hurray, only the ears remain! Or rather, there are not enough of them! Take two similar sized pieces of wool and start felting the ears. For convenience, take a felting brush and several needles at once, fastened together with an elastic band (medium needles, triangular or “star” No. 36).
Leave one edge unmatted to attach to the head.
41. Finish the edges, rounding the ear, giving it shape. We do not touch the unfelt edge!!!
42. When the ears have thickened, you can continue felting on a special sponge.
You can also “paint” the center of the ear black. Try to smooth out the borders of colors.
Sand the eyelet with a fine needle.
43. Try the ears on the dog’s head:

And go ahead if you like it!
First inside (take some wool and stretch it into a cloud).
Smooth out all the joints:
And the outside:
Go over the entire surface of the toy, sand where necessary. 44. Tint the hollows of the mouth with dry pastel paints (rub the pastel on sandpaper in advance). And also tint around the nose: 45. You can attach more eyelashes (bend the eyelid, drip glue - for example Moment gel, and secure the eyelashes).
46. For the antennae, use monofilament: insert a needle, pull it out on the other side, secure with back-and-forth stitches. So a few antennae. 47. For the “wet nose” effect, you can coat it with varnish or impregnate it with Selvitose (similar to starch), and only then coat it with a glossy acrylic varnish(can be bought at the art salon).

Well, and finally - you can fluff up the puppy using a reverse needle!))))
Stay with! And to new posts!

Oh, these husky! Probably, most of the world's inhabitants consider these dogs to be the cutest creatures. How can I resist and not do it? DIY husky toy? I think that dry felting technique fits this purpose perfectly.

So let's get started. To begin with, as usual, I will list the materials that we will need for felting.

Materials and tools for felting.

Felting wool: dark grey, black and white. I used Australian merino.
Sponge or special brush for felting.
Needles for felting: triangular medium needle (No. 38) for forming parts, “star” No. 40, twisted triangular No. 40, medium “crown” needle and reverse needle for adding fluffiness to the toy.
Self-hardening clay (preferably white) for the eyes. Paints for coloring eyes. I used watercolors.
Varnish. You can use any, but it is desirable that the varnish be glossy. We will use it to cover the eyes, and with shiny eyes the toy always looks prettier. I used acrylic varnish.
A small comb and scissors to bring the toy into proper shape after processing with a reverse needle.

My husky turned out to be small: about 10-12 cm in height. So I immediately started felting it from white wool, without using a sliver (or combed tape). If you are planning to make a large toy, then I recommend first felting the parts from lower quality wool (or using padding polyester, tightening it with threads and thereby giving it the required shape). This will save you a lot of money :)

We start by shaping a bunch of white wool into a ball shape on a sponge. First we work with a triangular middle needle, then with a “crown”. In general, the “crown” needle, in my opinion, is simply irreplaceable in felting. It allows you to properly process the surface of the part without creating a void inside, as sometimes happens when working with a very thick needle.

This ball is the future head.

Now let's make the muzzle. We fold the end of the muzzle on which the nose is located, and leave tufts of wool at the opposite end. For them we will roll the muzzle to the husky's head.

We roll the muzzle into the head. We use a thin needle No. 40 for this purpose.

We outline the contours of the nose and smile. I did it with a crown.

Let's start felting the body. For this we take a larger bunch of white wool. Give it the shape of a dog's body. First, as usual, we work on a sponge. Then, when the shape is already more or less dense, you can felt, holding the part in your hands. The sequence of using needles: we start felting with a medium needle, then with a “crown” and end with a thin needle No. 40. We don’t felt the upper edge of the part, we will use it to roll the body to the head.

We bring the body to the head:

Now let's start felting the hind legs. Take two identical tufts of wool. It is advisable to work on paired parts in parallel from the very beginning, because it is then difficult to judge from the felted part how much wool needs to be taken at first.

Using a sponge, we begin to give the tuft of wool the required shape:

On one side we fold the bunch a little more. This will be the place where the leg is attached to the dog’s body.

Periodically we apply the leg to the body and try it on.

As mentioned above, we will need two such parts:

Now you need to make the lower part of the paws (the one with the toes). To do this, take an oblong tuft of wool and use a sponge to give it the shape of a paw.

We make two parts, do not touch one side of each part - we will use it to roll the foot onto the previously felted ball.

We wrap the non-felt end around the ball (the back of the leg) and roll the foot. To speed up the process, you can use not one, but several needles.

This is what we should get:

We attach the legs to the puppy's body. To do this, we pierce the foot through several times.

We roll both legs to the body. As you can see in the photo, on at this stage the border of the body and legs is very noticeable, that is, you can see where the leg is laid.

Let's try to smooth out this border. Take a small bunch of white wool, tangle it slightly in your hands, and shape it into a cloud.

Now we roll this cloud onto the junction of the paw and body, thereby smoothing out the border.

Here's what we got:

And a side view:

Let's start felting the front legs of the husky.

We take two identical bundles of wool, use a middle needle or a “crown” to fold one of the ends of each bundle. We work with the paws in parallel.

Now we begin to form the foot. We slightly bend the part and repeatedly poke it with a needle at the bend.

We should have two parts:

We bring the front legs to the body. It is better to first find a position in which the puppy sits and does not fall over.

Here's what happens:

Let's start coloring. The fun begins :)

To begin, we fill the nose with rough wool. I usually first take a fiber of wool and roll it along the contour of the spout, and then fill the void inside with a tuft of wool.

We roll the dog with gray wool in those places where it is necessary. It is better to have a photograph of a husky in front of your eyes during this process. We roll the wool with a thin needle. I chose dark gray wool. The point is that we will “fluff” the toy with a reverse needle. The reverse needle pulls out individual hairs from the toy. We made the base from white wool, which means that after processing with a reverse needle, the toy will become lighter.

The toy is already becoming like a husky :)

And the top view:

There is very little left.

Let's make a ponytail. Take a bunch of white wool and give it a cone shape. We fold the end of the bundle.

We wrap the tail with gray wool.

Using a sponge, roll the gray wool onto the white one and give the bun the shape of a ponytail. There is no need to felt the top end.

We roll the tail to the body. Again, experiment with the position of the ponytail. If you have slightly miscalculated the position of the paws and the husky is not sitting very confidently, the correct position of the tail will help correct this.

The tail is curled!

Now let's make the fingers. We will work with a “corona” needle.

p>I made the eyes from self-hardening clay. You can purchase ready-made eyes for toys or try making them yourself. We make “cakes” from clay and let them dry. Then use fine sandpaper or a nail file to remove any unevenness. Use a pencil to outline the pupils and iris. We paint the eyes with paints (first we apply the main tone - blue - then we draw the pupils and only after that, when the paint has dried, we draw the highlights). Cover the eyes with varnish.

While the eyes are drying, we will make indentations for the eyes on the husky's face. I do this with a needle number 38. Black wool can be used to slightly shade the line of the mouth.