Shampoos: alkaline (soap) and soapless.
- Alkaline in composition they are similar to liquid soaps.
- Soapless shampoos based on surfactants.
The basis of the shampoo is a detergent substance consisting of surfactants- surfactants (surfactants).
Surfactants are classified as follows:
Anionic - decompose in an aqueous solution with the formation of negatively charged ions;
Cationic - in an aqueous solution decompose with the formation of positive ions;
Amphoteric - in an aqueous solution, depending on the pH of the medium, cationic (in an acidic medium, pH less than 7) or anionic (in an alkaline medium, pH more than 7) properties may appear;
Neonogenic - do not form ions in the aquatic environment.
Washing actions provide mainly anionic surfactants... The molecule of anionic surfactants contains a water-soluble (hydrophilic) part, negatively charged, and a fat-soluble (hydrophobic), neutral one. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops dirt particles and the secretion of the sebaceous glands. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge, as a result of which the dirt particles, combined with the surfactant, are rejected by the hair, dissolved in water and removed.
Anionic surfactants - salts of alkyl ether sulfates, sodium lauryl sulfate (LSN), magnesium laureth sulfate, sactisulfosuccinates, sodium cetylaryl sulfate, cetyltitrateethoxyphosphate, forest-70, potassium stearate, sodium stearate, zinc stearate, EMAL, etc.
Anionic surfactants provide good foaming, provide a strongly pronounced washing effect, but are dermatologically quite tough. Damaged hair with split ends contains a large surface with a negative charge. Anionic surfactants (also negatively charged) raise keratin scales "on end". As a result, the hair clings to each other, splits, breaks, etc.
Cationic surfactants have a weak detergent effect, but they are well "attracted" to negatively charged hair and fix the dietary supplement on the hair. These include salts of quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, derivatives of plant polysachorides, catamine, quartamine, hydroxypropyl guar, and other cationic surfactants have an irritating effect and leave plaque on the hair.
Group amphoteric surfactants represent alkylamidopropyl betaines, which are used in combination with anionic surfactants to obtain a mild detergent substance. When combined with cationic polymers, they enhance the positive effects of silicones and polymers on hair and skin.
Neonogenic surfactants are added to the composition of shampoos to improve consistency, make hair silky and soft. More often than others, oxyeylated alcohols, oxyylated castor oil, propylene glycol esters of high molecular weight fatty acids are used.
Shampoos, cleansing gels, foams, bath foams should have a balanced formula of amphoteric, non-ionic, anionic surfactants, which provide good detergency and non-aggressive effect on the skin and hair.
Water in shampoos it occupies 80-90% of all constituent components, and its quality is of great importance in the production of cosmetic products. Depending on the composition, the water can be hard or soft. Different water also has a different effect on the hair when shampooing.
Conditioning additives, which include highly volatile silicones and silicone oils, are designed to remove static electricity; smoothing and smoothing the damaged areas of the hair shafts; easy combing of wet and dry hair; minimizing porosity; giving hair shine and silkiness; providing protection against thermal and mechanical damage; humidification; increase in volume and mass.
Functional additives. Preservatives- substances that are added to cosmetics to stop the growth or destroy microorganisms.
Thickeners(viscosity regulators) are added to shampoos to give the desired consistency. Polymers are used as a thickener.
Solubilizers- these are special substances, in the presence of which the solubility of difficult-to-dissolve ingredients increases.
As pH regulators to correct the pH, soft acids (citric, lactic, orthophosphoric) or alkalis (sodium hydroxide, mono- or triethanolamine) are added. The pH of the shampoo should be such as to ensure the effectiveness of all the components that make up its composition.
Aesthetic supplements include opacifiers, colorants and fragrances.
Useful in shampoos are dietary supplements- proteins, lipids, vitamins, seafood, plants, fruit extracts, hormones and phytohormones, etc.
Modern shampoos often contain micro- and macrospheres, which are systems (visible or invisible) in which the dietary supplement is encapsulated. The capsule shells can be made of chitosan, and inside there are vitamins, oils, menthol.
Oils that can restore the lipid layer of the hair - burdock, avocado, rapeseed, jojoba, black currant oil - will also help to improve the condition of the cuticle.
Shampoo classification:
Shampoos distinguished by their appearance.
Shampoos designed for different types of hair.
Shampoos classified according to the sex and age of the person.
History, classification, composition, main additives of shampoos, caring for the hair shaft.
History and general information
The shampoo was invented in 1903. The German chemist Hans Schwarzkoppf first made a violet shampoo with a black-haired head logo. Schwarzkopf's shampoo powder was the first branded product in the field of hair cosmetics. The assortment of shampoos expanded quite quickly and already included eight types: yolk, chamomile, oxygen, herbal, lanolin, birch, sulfur and with resin extracts. In 1919, production reached a qualitatively new level, and the product was named Schaumpoon. A few years later, Schwarzkopf's company presented a new invention - liquid shampoo. In 1931, a shampoo with caring components was created, in 1993 - the first alkali-free shampoo for hair, the formula of which has become the basis of many modern shampoos. The production of shampoos and other hair care products is constantly expanding. Currently, there are many shampoos, conditioners, rinses, masks for various hair types. Also, tonic shampoos have been introduced into production, providing the hair with temporary coloring that does not violate the hair structure. In Russia, the first shampoo was released in the 60s. It included not only detergents, but glycerin and alcohol.
The most common classification of shampoos - by hair type for which they are intended: dry, oily, normal, mixed (oily roots / dry ends), damaged, colored, weakened, thin, thick, etc.
At first glance, the most common shampoos should be for normal hair. In practice, normal hair is quite rare. Dry hair requires, in addition to a mild detergent substance, the presence of moisturizing additives, such as oils, plant extracts, sunscreen factors, provitamin B5, etc. Shampoos for oily hair should also not contain harsh detergent substances, because constant defatting ultimately causes an increase in the work of the sebaceous glands. These shampoos contain additives that reduce oil production, for example by narrowing the ducts of the sebaceous glands. Sulfur preparations, cocoa bean extract, nettle have a similar effect. Shampoos for damaged hair contain conditioning components that transport the bioadditives to the damaged area and fix it on the hair. The most effective dietary supplements are proteins and their derivatives (keratin), ceramides.
Shampoo composition
The composition of any modern shampoo corresponds to a certain well-established principle: a detergent substance (surfactants, surfactants), additives in the form of auxiliary surfactants (Co surfactants), which contribute to obtaining additional specified properties of the shampoo (foaming, etc.), conditioning components, functional additives and modifiers (pH regulators, preservatives, etc.), aesthetic additives that give the shampoo a marketable appearance (fragrances, dyes, opacifiers, preservatives, pearlescent substances, etc.), dietary supplements, water.
Surfactants are used to achieve the following effects: to reduce the surface tension between water and particles of sebum, dirt, thus facilitating the removal of these particles from the surface of the scalp and hair; foam formation.
It is due to surfactants - detergents - that the shampoo has detergent properties.
The overwhelming majority of all modern shampoos contain anionic surfactants as the main detergent component. The molecule of anionic surfactants contains a water-soluble (hydrophilic) part, negatively charged and fat-soluble (hydrophobic), neutral. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops dirt particles and the secretion of the sebaceous glands. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge, as a result of which the dirt particles combined with the surfactant are rejected by the hair, dissolved in water and removed. The most common representative of anionic surfactants in modern shampoos are salts of alkyl sulfates, namely sodium laureth sulfate. Magnesium lauryl sulfate and magnesium laureth sulfate are used mainly in baby shampoos. It is softer, but expensive.
Cationic surfactants much less often they are used as the main surfactant, but are often used as additives, are part of air conditioners. In an aqueous solution, they disintegrate with the formation of positively charged ions, have a weak washing effect, but they are well “attracted” to negatively charged hair and fix the dietary supplement on the hair. These include salts of quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, derivatives of plant polysaccharides, and others.
Group amphoteric (ampholytic) surfactants are alkylamidopropyl betaines and long-chain alkyl-substituted amino acids, which are used in combination with anionic surfactants to produce a mild detergent substance. Recently, amphoteric imidazole derivatives of surfactants (cocoamphoacetate) have been increasingly used in formulations, which, in combination with anionic surfactants, improve foaming ability and increase the harmlessness of formulations, and in combination with cationic polymers, enhance the positive effect of silicones and polymers on hair and skin.
Nonionic surfactants used in shampoos to improve consistency, rheological characteristics, make hair silky and soft. Most often, oxyethylated alcohols, oxyethylated castor oil, propylene glycol esters of high molecular weight fatty acids are used.
Conditioning additives. During life, under the influence of damaging external factors (combing with a bad comb, discoloration, chemistry, as well as a combination of these and other factors), the hair cuticle is destroyed and the cortex is damaged. In this regard, there is a need to restore the hair structure. The hair shaft has negatively charged chemical groups on its surface that are capable of forming complexes with cationic (positively charged) surfactants, polypeptides and other substances. The essence of conditioning is that cationic reagents and polypeptides from protein hydrolysates are attracted to negatively charged groups and thus create a protective layer on the hair surface. Moreover, the more damaged the hair, the more active the conditioning process is, and the more noticeable the effect.
Conditioners include various oils, fatty alcohols, glycol esters, protein derivatives. For creamy shampoos, the most common conditioner will be lanolin, soluble lanolin oil, and soluble lanolin derivatives. For example, a cationic acrylic copolymer possesses very valuable consumer properties, the addition of which to shampoo makes it easier to comb the hair when wet and gives it antistatic properties.
The main shampoo additives that care for the hair shaft:
- Proteins. The hair shaft is 90% protein - keratin. And that is why the frequent components of shampoos and conditioners are various protein molecules. Vegetable proteins are obtained from beans, wheat, oats, soybeans, almonds. Marine collagen is widely used. In their natural form, proteins are insoluble and unsuitable for use in cosmetics, therefore, using various chemical reactions, their hydrolysates are obtained, which come in various sizes. Large protein molecules have good film-forming properties, small protein molecules attach well to the hair shaft (have good substantiveness). Keratin hydrolysates show the greatest substance to the skin and hair. They are widely used in products for damaged hair. Protein hydrolysates in shampoos and conditioners are positively contaminated particles, they will be compatible with anionic surfactants, besides, they adhere well to a negatively charged hair shaft. Wheat gluten hydrolyzate (forms a protective film on the hair), green pea hydrolyzate (creates a protective film that restores hair shine and elasticity, removes static electricity; especially effective for damaged hair), milk hydrolyzate, soy hydrolyzate (relieves hair from static charge and makes it easier to comb both wet and dry hair, giving it shine).
- Amino acids being the structural parts of protein, they are also used in shampoos. In hair products, amino acids help to improve the condition of the hair shaft by restoring the keratin chains of the hair shaft.
- Lipids play an important role in the functioning of the scalp and hair. In fact, the function of the shampoo is to remove not only dirt, but also fats. However, removing all the fat not only results in the discomfort of excessive scalp dryness, but also in the loss of the skin's protective function. To restore the lipid layer, lipid supplements are added to the shampoo. In case of an overdose of overfatty ingredients, the shampoo can be greasy to the touch and, when used, give a “unwashed feeling”. This “over-fat” shampoo makes hair “heavier” and reduces splendor. Therefore, more often modified fats are introduced into shampoos - oxyethylated esters of fatty acids and oils, which do not possess such properties.
- Ceramides (sphingolipids).
- Together with fatty acids and cholesterol, ceramides represent the main fraction (40 - 66%) of the lipids of the stratum corneum. In the skin, ceramides fill the intercellular space between the keratinocytes of the stratum corneum and form multilayer liposomes (liquid crystals, together with fatty acids and styrenes), which are important for water retention in the skin. In hair, ceramides have a binding effect between cuticle cells. The introduction of ceramides improves the structure of the hair, especially after dyeing, curling, sun exposure.
- Vegetable oils. They improve the hair shaft, creating a film on its surface, have conditioning properties, give shine and softness. The most popular oils are coconut, jojoba, grape seed, germ. Recently, various exotic oils, such as macadamia oil, orchid, shea, have been included in shampoos and conditioners.
- Silicones First of all, give hair shine and silkiness, softness, remove electrostatic charge, facilitate combing wet and dry hair, preventing damage to it; reduce stickiness in styling products. Possessing the property of “sticking” the scales of damaged hair, they perform a healing function; forming a film on the hair, they also perform a protective function.
Silicones include the following substances:
- dimethicones (silicone oils) - have a regenerating effect, increase shine, facilitate combing and styling, and form a protective film. In large quantities, it can have the effect of making hair heavier,
- polyol dimethicones (copolymers - water-soluble silicones) - have surface-active properties, are compatible with various functional additives, improve styling,
- amino functional silicones (amodimethicone) - have conditioning and regenerating properties.
No modern woman can do without such an essential hair care product as shampoo. It was invented over a hundred years ago and originally had the appearance of a powder. Over time, the range of shampoos has increased, new formulas and various fragrances have appeared. The types of shampoos that exist today are quite diverse, so it is sometimes difficult to make the right choice. In order for the purchase to be successful, you need to know some points that will help you not to make a mistake and purchase a product specifically for your hair type.
What is the shampoo for and how does it work?
The main task of this product is to remove dirt from the hair surface. And this is done with the help of which are the main components of the shampoo and are able to dissolve water and fat-soluble impurities.
In addition to surfactants, all types of hair shampoos contain other components, such as herbal extracts, proteins, preservatives, silicones, dyes and other additives. Do not be fooled by reading the information on the label about the presence of natural ingredients in the shampoo. Even if they are there, they are in very small quantities, and their effect is negligible. But you shouldn't be upset either, because the quality of the shampoo does not depend on the presence or absence of natural ingredients, but on the quality of the detergent composition and other synthetic substances.
Pay attention to the cost if you want to purchase a quality shampoo. The price of a good product cannot be low. More expensive shampoos contain components that soften the effect of aggressive substances, which means that the possible negative effect of such a product on the hair is minimized.
What are the shampoos
An incorrectly chosen remedy will not be beneficial, and may even harm. First of all, you need to determine the type of your hair, as well as its condition. There are these types of hair shampoos: products for the care of oily, dry, normal, thin, damaged and weakened hair.
Shampoo for oily hair
If your hair looks unkempt the day after washing, you should choose mild and gentle products to avoid irritation of overly active sebaceous glands. It is not advisable to constantly use shampoo for oily hair. Consumer reviews show that regular use of such a product can provoke overdrying and therefore, periodically you need to use a neutral product.
Shampoo for dry hair
Such hair is devoid of shine, it is dull, brittle and splits, therefore it needs constant moisture. Care products for this type of hair contain many moisturizing ingredients and saturate the hair with moisture.
Shampoo for normal hair
This shampoo does not contain any additional components, except for those intended for gentle cleansing. Normal hair has a healthy look and shine, is easy to style and comb, and retains freshness for several days. Shampoos for normal hair should contain detergents that preserve and maintain the natural lubrication of the hair, various herbal supplements and vitamins.
If you have mixed hair, do not rush to buy a product marked "For mixed type", this is just a good marketing ploy. This shampoo is unlikely to benefit your hair, it is best to use a product for normal hair and additionally a balm. Dry ends must be moisturized with special masks.
For thin, damaged or weakened hair, there are special products. Shampoos for fine hair contain placenta, keratin, plant extracts and These components prevent hair from sticking together and strengthen their roots.
Shampoo for damaged hair gently cleanses and restores its strength.
Depending on the purpose, there are these types of shampoos:
Medicinal. With the help of such means, you can get rid of dandruff, eczema, fungus, itching, and prevent hair loss. You cannot often use such shampoos, as they penetrate deeply into the scalp.
Shading. This shampoo contains coloring pigments, thanks to which you can paint over gray hair or emphasize the natural hair color. The composition of these products does not include ammonia and oxidants, so they do not damage the hair structure.
Directional shampoos. These products are mainly used by professionals to give hair specific properties. Particularly popular are shampoos for volumizing or accelerating hair growth.
For colored hair. These shampoos are designed to preserve the brightness of the hair color. Compared to other products, the content of detergents is reduced. Special components create a microfilm on the hair, so the dyes do not wash out so quickly.
Homemade hair washing products
If synthetic shampoos aren't for you, try a natural hair wash that has multiple benefits and is free of harmful chemicals. Homemade shampoos are prepared based on natural soap.
You need to take 180-200 ml of water, a teaspoon of cosmetic oil (almond oil - for oily hair, jojoba oil - for dry hair, for any type of hair - grape seed oil), 50 g of soap (you can take olive, castor, coconut, palm or glycerin). For aroma you need to add 25-35 drops of your favorite essential oil, 1-2 tbsp. l. decoction of nettle, chamomile, calendula or burdock roots. Store homemade shampoos in the refrigerator for no more than seven days.
Shampoo rating
As for shampoo brands, a popularity rating was compiled based on the results of a survey of women aged 25-35 years. Based on this, there are five brands that are in the greatest demand.
Shampoos of this brand are in demand among women of average income, since the price-quality ratio is optimal in them. Hair condition improves with regular use. A positive result can be seen with the simultaneous use of conditioner and masks of this brand.
The popularity of hair washing products of this brand is due to their easy availability and rich assortment at an affordable price.
Regular use of shampoos of this brand improves the appearance of the hair, making it shiny and silky. In addition, the hair is easier to comb and style.
The range of these shampoos is quite diverse. The product perfectly cleans hair and scalp. Products for dark and red hair of this brand have proven themselves well. However, shampoo for oily hair is not very popular. Customer reviews suggest that Timotei dries oily hair too much.
Popular for its healing effect. After several weeks of using the product, hair loss stops, the structure of the hair improves, it becomes shiny and silky. True, this shampoo is not cheap.
Important little things
1. When buying a shampoo, pay attention to its composition. The number of ingredients must be at least 10. The expiration date is also important. The best option is 6-12 months.
2. A good product should not have a bright color and rich aroma, this indicates an excess of flavors and dyes in it.
3. To give your hair a break from synthetic products, use homemade shampoos and masks from time to time.
4. If the cause of hair loss and dandruff is inside the body, then even special types of shampoos will not help get rid of this problem. Such funds can only be used as an adjunct to the main treatment.
5. To understand whether the shampoo is right for you or not, it is enough to use it twice. If, using the product for a month, you notice that the hair is well washed, shiny, easy to comb, there is no irritation on the scalp, then we can conclude that this shampoo is right for you. For reasons of economy, you should not use a remedy that did not suit you - it will take a long time to treat the consequences.
Shampoo classification
By composition:
— based on synthetic surfactants;
— based on soaps proper;
— based on a mixture of soaps and surfactants. By release form:
— liquid;
— creamy;
— gelatinous;
— powdery;
— aerosol. By appointment:
— hygienic;
— treatment-and-prophylactic (special);
— decorative.
Liquid shampoos are aqueous solutions of active detergents - surfactants (surfactants (surfactants) from 10 to 30%). Currently, the more common form of release are creamy and gel-like shampoos with higher consumer characteristics: cosmetic efficiency, ease of use and dosage.
Most powdered shampoos are based on pigments, which, due to adsorption, partially defat the hair.
Long-term use of these shampoos is not recommended as they often cause dandruff. Some powdered shampoos contain surfactants and require an aqueous solution to be prepared immediately prior to use.
Characteristic, classification, nomenclature
and the functional purpose of surfactants in the composition
foaming cosmetics
The main components of shampoos are surfactants (surfactants). Depending on the nature of the polar group and its ability to dissociate into ions, they are distinguished: anionic, cationic surfactants, amphoteric and nonionic (that is, not dissociating into ions) surfactants.
When anionic surfactants dissociate in water, a surface-active anion and a hydrated cation, for example, an alkali metal or ammonium cation, are formed. Their share in detergents for personal hygiene is the largest and, according to various estimates, in different countries, 60–80% of the total production of surfactants for these purposes.
The most important group of raw materials for the production of shampoos are sulfonates. Of these, C 12 (lauryl) derivatives are most often used (lauryl sulfates and oxyethylated lauryl sulfates in the form of sodium, magnesium, ammonium salts, mono-, di- and triethanolamines, etc.). All these substances have high functional properties, but they irritate the skin and mucous membranes.
Relatively new, but already widespread in production, are products that are various derivatives of sulfosuccinic acid. These substances have a mild effect on the keratin of the hair and scalp, and are also capable of forming a finely dispersed foam. In modern foam detergents, salts of half-esters of sulfosuccinic acid - sulfosuccinates - are increasingly used. They are used as a mild active base for shampoos, foam preparations for baths and showers. Sarcosines (for example, lauryl sarcosine) are increasingly used as components of shampoos. They have a high foaming capacity and do not irritate the mucous membrane of the eye.
In the production of shampoos, potassium, di- or tri-ethanolamine salts of coconut alkyl fatty acids (with a high C 12 content) are used. Recently, potassium soaps are becoming less commonare used in shampoos, given their dermatological non-indifference, since they form alkaline solutions in water up to pH 10. Salts of triethanolamine and diethanolamine can be used in neutral media, but their aqueous solutions are easily destroyed by light or heat, which necessitates the addition of antioxidants.
In terms of its functional properties, soap foam is thicker compared to the foam formed when shampoos based on synthetic surfactants are used. However, in the presence of salts in hard water, soaps form insoluble Ca-, Mg-complexes, which reduces the functional properties of surfactants of this type of shampoos.
One of the most popular surfactants in shampoo production are alkyl sulfates and alkyl ethoxysulfates. In the composition of liquid shampoo, triethanolamine alkyl sulfate is usually used. Since the sodium salt of alkyl sulfate is not so well soluble in water, its use is limited to powder or paste shampoos. As part of liquid shampoos, it is used alone or in combination with polyoxyethylene alkyl ether of sulfuric acid.
The group of polyoxyethylene alkyl esters of sulfuric acid, like alkyl sulfates, is a surfactant used in the production of shampoos. They are characterized by high functional characteristics, but they have a high irritating effect on the skin.
Cationic surfactants, in which a cation has surface activity, are represented by quaternary ammonium compounds, amidoamine salts, benzalkonium chloride, etc.
They are practically not used as active substances in the composition of foaming cosmetics, but the introduction in small quantities gives the shampoos an antistatic and disinfecting effect, despite the low functional properties of cationic surfactants.
The mechanism of the conditioning action is that cationic surfactants, due to the high degree of adsorption on keratin, neutralize the negative charge characteristic of the hair surface. The nomenclature of cationic surfactants and their mechanism of action are discussed in more detail in the topic “Cosmetic products for subsequent hair care. Conditioners and balms ".
Amphoteric surfactants in their structure contain hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups, due to which these compounds have the properties of anionic surfactants in an alkaline medium and cationic - in an acidic medium.solution. Shampoos containing this group of surfactants provide a long-term degreasing effect on the hair, do not irritate the mucous membranes of the eye.
Natural amphoteric surfactants (or ampholytes) include some phospholipids, for example, lecithin, an ester of phosphoric acid with fatty acid glycerides and choline. Ampholytes of the carboxybetaine and imidazoline series, as well as amino acid derivatives, are of industrial importance. However, the proportion of ampholytes in foaming cosmetics is already about 30%, which is due to their dermatological characteristics, good compatibility with surfactants of all types, bactericidal activity, resistance in hard water and good foaming properties.
Sulfobetaines and sulfatobetaines, unlike carboxybetaines, independently of the pH of the medium, exhibit both cationic and anionic properties, and therefore they are sometimes isolated into an independent subgroup of zwitterionic surfactants.
Fatty alkyl betaines are usually used as an auxiliary foaming agent and thickener in conjunction with polyoxyethylene alkyl esters of sulfuric acid, since they provide a lighter and bulky foam compared to fatty amide alkanol.
Imidazoline derivatives are an integral part of children's shampoos and shampoos with a low irritant effect due to their dermatological mildness. They are used in combination with polyoxy-ethylene alkyl esters of sulfuric acid or non-ionic surfactants, since they have insufficient cleaning ability. In some cases they are used as a foaming aid and thickener for alkyl sulfate or polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfuric acid shampoos.
Alkylalanine has properties similar to amphoteric surfactants such as betaine, and is also used as an adjuvant for foaming shampoo based on anionic surfactants. The effect of this type of surfactant largely depends on the pH, in particular, in an acidic environment, its effect decreases.
Non-polar hydrophobic surfactant groups can be aliphatic radicals: straight-chain and branched, saturated and unsaturated, including small polar groups.
The function of the hydrophobic base of hydrocarbon surfactants can also be performed by alkylbenzenes, alkylphenols, residues of steroid alcoholsand acids, polyoxypropylene blocks. A separate group of compounds are organosilicon or, as they are also called, silicone surfactants.
Nonionic surfactants. The most typical representatives of nonionic surfactants are ethylene oxide derivatives - oxyethylated aliphatic alcohols, alkylphenols and alkylolamides, alkylpolyglycosides (APG), glycerides and polyglycerol esters of aliphatic acids, esters of sucrose, maltose and other sugars. The introduction of these surfactants into the composition of shampoos provides a solubilizing and foam-stabilizing function, a softening effect.
Alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) are increasingly popular with developers and manufacturers of cosmetic products. Being nonionic surfactants, APGs differ somewhat from the classical nonionic surfactants - ethoxylated fatty alcohols, primarily by natural replenishing sources of production. The undoubted advantage of APG, in addition to its dermatological characteristics, is their positive effect on the hair structure, which is used in formulations of "gentle" shampoos, for example, for thin, damaged hair or baby shampoos. When APG is used as the main surfactant in combination with betaine, a further improvement in dermatological characteristics is achieved with a sufficient final viscosity and good foaming properties. The use of APG and modern technology for producing microemulsions in the formulation opens up additional possibilities for the preparation of 2 in 1 shower gels with a high oil content even at low temperatures. APGs can be easily combined with cationic surfactants, have the properties of a co-emulsifier and make it possible to obtain a rinse aid that does not contain ethoxylated products.
Modern alkyl polyglycosides have undeniable advantages both from the point of view of biological compatibility (they are ecologically and dermatologically safe) and from the point of view of production technology.
Among nonionic surfactants, oxyethylated glycerides of aliphatic acids, oxyethylated esters of aliphatic acids and anhydrosorbite, known as tweens, as well as "oxyethylated lanolin" are of great importance for cosmetic preparations.
Fatty acids or their esters with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are used as "pearlescent" and superfatty components in shampoos, rinses, and foam preparations for taking baths and showers.
In some cases, surfactant block copolymers based on ethylene and propylene oxides are added to shampoos. To regulate the consistency and reduce the irritating effect of shampoos, it is proposed to use block copolymers of butylene and ethylene oxides.
Tertiary amine oxides are increasingly used instead of alkylolamides in liquid foam detergents as foam stabilizers, viscosity regulators, and detergent activators. They are obtained from alkyldimethylamines, most often C 10 - C 16 fractions, ether amines or amido amines.
An important component of modern shampoos and other foam detergents are alkylolamides of aliphatic acids: synthetic, vegetable or animal origin. The most important are diethanolamides, monoethanolamides and monoisopropanolamides. These surfactants have a softening effect on the skin, stabilize foam and thicken aqueous concentrates of anionic surfactants. Diethanolamides have better water solubility than mono-ethanolamides and monoisopropanolamides, the latter, in combination with other surfactants, are capable of producing a pearlescent suspension in liquid formulations.
From other auxiliary nonionic surfactants, glycerides and polyglycerol esters of aliphatic acids, esters of anhydrosorbitol, sucrose, maltose and other sugars are introduced into shampoo formulations, the additives of which usually perform a solubilizing or foam stabilizing function in formulations.
Many types of nonionic surfactants are used as intermediates for the production of other surfactant classes.
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Lecture: Hair care products
Hair structure and function
Classification of hair care products
Hygiene products
Shampoos. Main cast. Classification. Quality requirements
Paints. Classification.
Requirements for the quality of paints
Question 3. Hygiene products
Modern hygiene products are designed to remove impurities from the hair and scalp, with an obligatory cosmetic effect: giving the hair aroma, natural shine, splendor, easy to style, and soft skin.
Hair washing products include: toilet soaps, shampoos, less often foam detergents intended for simultaneous bath (shower) and hair washing, rinses, etc.
Hair care products after washing your hair include hair rinses - these are rinses, conditioners, conditioners, conditioners - conditioners, conditioners - hair conditioners and hair care products without rinsing the hair.
Their purpose is to eliminate such consequences of hair washing as a change in the pH value (pH) to the alkaline side and damage to the scaly layer under the action of water, shampoo, friction. In addition, these preparations are used to introduce nourishing and moisturizing substances into the hair structure and scalp to eliminate defatting during washing, to facilitate hair combing, styling, etc.
Rinses in general can be viewed as a type of shampoo that has practically lost its original ability to wash; as a result, they have low washing and foaming properties. Usually they are an oil / water emulsion prepared on the basis of cationic surfactants using various additives for special purposes. The rinsing agents are in the form of a creamy mass. There are also transparent homogeneous solutions. Rinses are designed to make hair easier to detangle. They contain anti-static additives that reduce the friction that occurs when brushing your hair, thereby preventing the build-up of static electricity. Rinses are selected depending on the type of hair. They are recommended for oily hair care.
Balms. They contain a higher content of nutrients and useful substances that have a beneficial effect on the structure of the hair and scalp. These are: vitamins (Vz, Vz, PP, etc.), plant extracts, infusions, keratin, lipids, etc. These components penetrate directly under the scales of the upper (stratum corneum) layer of the hair, fill the voids formed between them and thereby level the surface hair shaft. Balms also affect hair follicles, because contain stimulants of hair growth and regulators of the activity of the sebaceous glands. Balms are most often recommended for dry hair care.
Conditioners are the means by which the hair becomes soft and natural shine, does not electrify, and is easy to style and comb. Conditioners provide fast drying of hair due to the introduction of silicone derivatives into the formulation. They are used in the same way as rinse aids.
Modern rinsing (conditioning) products combine several functions: rinse - conditioner, balm - rinse, balm - conditioner, etc.
Rinses are applied to washed hair. The duration of their action is 1-3 minutes, after which they are washed off with plenty of warm water.
The main standardized indicators of rinsing agents are: pH value - from 2.7-7.5; dry matter content - up to 40%. A more acidic environment than shampoos allows rinses to restore hair structure after washing. Scales of the hair cuticle, swollen and raised during the washing process, fit tightly under the action of the acidic environment of the rinse aid.
Hair care products without rinsing. These funds appeared on the Russian market relatively recently. They are applied to washed hair and do not rinse with water. These products include foams - conditioners, hair structure restorers (in the form of lotions), etc. These drugs are usually produced in aerosol packages.
Question 4. Shampoos.Shampoos are alcohol-water or aqueous solutions, gels or emulsions of surfactants with various useful additives and perfume fragrance.
Shampoos can be natural (soap) based and synthetic surfactants.
Modern shampoos - most often these are products based on a mixture of synthetic surfactants of complex action that perform several functions at once: the main one is to remove dirt from the surface of the hair and scalp and additional ones: nutrition, restoration, moisturizing, protection, hair coloring, etc.
Shampoo requirements.
It dissolves well and easily in water (including hard and sea water);
easily and completely rinsed off the hair surface;
have a high detergent effect and abundant foaming;
have additional functions (nutrition, hydration, recovery, etc.), i.e. be complex action;
have a beneficial effect on the hair, scalp, as well as the mucous membrane of the eye (i.e., do not have an irritating, allergic, degreasing effect);
to give a beautiful appearance to the hair: shine, softness, increase the volume (give splendor); after using the shampoo, the hair should comb well, easily
fit into a hairdo, etc.;
be stable during storage and use;
have an attractive appearance and a light pleasant smell;
have attractive and easy-to-use packaging.
Surfactants (surfactants) are the basis of any shampoo and play the role of washing, cleansing and foaming components.
The most common surfactant in the formulations of modern shampoos is oxyethylated sodium lauryl sulfate - sodium laureth sulfate.
In children's shampoos, mild surfactants (co-surfactants) are predominantly used, which are products based on a hydrolyzate of protein and fatty acids, for example, coconut oil. This product is very suitable for creating transparent shampoos.
Thickeners, antistatic agents, preservatives, pH regulators, complexing agents, biologically active substances / dietary supplements, dyes, etc. are used as auxiliary raw materials.
Supplements for excess fat. They are used to restore the lipid layer (in other words, to reduce the degreasing effect of the shampoo on the scalp and hair). This is especially true for shampoos for dry and damaged hair. These additives give hair elasticity, shine and improve its appearance.
Re-fatting additives are mainly fats and oils of natural origin. These include lanolin and its derivatives, almond, coconut, apricot, olive, sesame and other oils. Biologically active additives (BAA). An important role in the composition of shampoos is played by dietary supplements: vitamins, plant extracts, algae extracts, fruit acids and others that promote cell renewal, improve hair structure, etc. Anti-dandruff additives. The most common ingredients are:
Zinc Pynthione - zinc pyrithione; Climbazole - climbazole;
Ketoconozole - ketoconozole; Sulfur - sulfur;
Salicylic Acid - salicylic acid;
Octopirox (Piroctone Olamine) - Octopyrox (Piroctone Olamine);
Coal Tag - tar; Selenium Disulphide - selenium disulfide.
According to the principle of action, these substances can be combined into the following groups:
Conditioning additives... They are introduced into modern shampoos to achieve the following goals: removal of static electricity, reduction of hair "flying away"; smoothing and smoothing of damaged areas of hair shafts; easy combing of wet and dry hair; minimization of porosity; making hair shiny and silky; providing protection against thermal and mechanical damage; an increase in volume and mass.Conditioning agents include various oils, fatty alcohols, glycol esters, wetting agents and protein derivatives, and silicone compounds.
Thickeners ( viscosity regulators). They are added to shampoos to give the desired consistency - usually to increase the viscosity. Sodium chloride - NaCl is often used as a thickener for shampoos based on sodium lauryl sulfate. Emulsifiers. They allow you to obtain a stable homogeneous emulsion and determine many of the most important qualities of the shampoo: stability, consistency, homogeneity. Surfactants, derivatives of fatty acids (lecithin, phospholipids) are used as emulsifiers; fatty alcohols;emulsion waxes, mixtures of stearin, olein and polyethylene glycol ethers (PEG-400), etc.
Preservatives- special antimicrobial substances introduced into the composition of cosmetic products in order to ensure the safety of the cosmetic product and its safety for consumers during the guaranteed storage period.The most commonly used preservatives are: methylparaben, propylparaben; ethylparaben, propylparaben, bronopol, etc.
PH regulators. To correct the pH, soft acids (citric, lactic, orthophosphoric) or alkalis (sodium hydroxide, mono- or triethanolamine) are added. Fragrances. Fragrance is a complex blend of synthetic and natural compounds that is added to shampoo in order to hide the unpleasant odor of the base ingredients and complete the aesthetic design. They use synthetic and natural fragrances (plant extracts, essential oils, etc.). Opalescent additives and opacifiers... Opalescent additives are used to give opalescence ("pearlescence") to transparent shampoos. They are usually waxy products that are slightly soluble but readily dispersible in shampoos. When choosing them, the main attention is paid to ensuring that their use does not impair other important properties of the shampoo, in particular foaming.Opacifiers allow you to give shampoos a uniformly cloudy appearance. Opacifiers mask the visual discontinuities of the product, allowing new consumer properties to be imparted to the product.
Dyes are used to create a complete "product image" or to mask unwanted shades. Dyes must be safe for consumers, therefore, substances permitted by the EEC directive are used for cosmetic products. In addition, they must be lightfast and must not interact with the shampoo components and packaging.
A feature of modern shampoos is the constant complication, improvement and optimization of the formulation.
4.2. Shampoo classificationClassification of shampoos.
Shampoos are distinguished according to their functions (purpose), gender and age, consistency, surfactant concentration, hair type, etc. (see Fig. 2).
Shampoos are general purpose (hygienic),
intended for washing hair and scalp, and complex shampoos
actions or with additional functions: conditioning,
coloring, therapeutic and prophylactic action, etc.
Conditioning shampoos are known as 2-in-1 and 3-in-1 shampoos. These are shampoos that combine the properties of a shampoo and a conditioning agent (balm, rinse, conditioner). The advantage of these shampoos is that they save time in use. They are recommended for people with a limited amount of free time; they are convenient to use on the road, in field conditions. Specialists (doctors, dermatologists) recommend using separately shampoos and conditioners, because The main function of the shampoo is to wash off, remove impurities from the surface of the hair and scalp, and the function of balms, rinses is to penetrate the structure of the hair and scalp. Surfactants, which are part of the shampoo, wash off part of the conditioner, thereby weakening the protective effect of the latter.
Coloring shampoos are presented: tint, tint, lightening, to weaken hair color and remove unwanted shade, remove dye from hair. All types of coloring shampoos can be incorporated into both hygiene products and hair decorative products.
Treatment and prophylactic shampoos. By the nature of the therapeutic effect, shampoos are divided into: strengthening (nourishing), anti-dandruff, moisturizing, regenerating and complex effects.
By hair type, shampoos are: - shampoos for normal hair; are intended for washing and caring for healthy hair of normal type. The detergent base of the shampoo is a mixture of surfactants that do not cause excessive defatting. The additives used in them have a vitaminizing and tonic effect, make the hair soft and shiny, which helps to preserve the healthy appearance of the hair;shampoos for dry hair; are intended for washing and caring for dry, thinned, brittle hair, degreased after dyeing and curling. They necessarily include fatty substances such as mink fat, lecithin, vegetable oils, etc., which are usually called
superfatty additives. The number of active additives of therapeutic and prophylactic action: vitamins, amino acids, plant extracts, infusions, etc., in the formulations of shampoos for dry hair is usually increased;
shampoos for oily hair; have a high cleansing and foaming ability, allow you to remove excess sebum, dirt and dandruff. They include special substances that normalize lipid metabolism, anti-inflammatory substances that reduce itching and flaking on the scalp, antimicrobial components.
Modern shampoos can also have a narrower purpose. So, many cosmetic companies produce:
shampoos for dry and damaged hair with natural protein (for example, wheat, silk, etc.), marine collagen, lipids, amino acids, etc., which give the hair shine and softness, restore its firmness and elasticity;
shampoos for colored hair and / or after perm with natural collagen, which restores the structure of the surface layer of the hair;
shampoos for fine and weak hair with panthenol, which nourishes and strengthens the hair:
shampoos for long and split ends with dietary supplements, allowing you to align the structure along the entire length of the hair. The additives counteract the splitting of the hair ends, restore the structure, and add shine.
shampoos for curly (from nature) and frizzy hair (due to perm);
shampoos for dry hair at the ends and oily at the base of the hair, etc.
The range includes mild shampoos for sensitive, irritated scalp, for example with grapefruit extract and even for oily scalp and dry hair (milk shampoo).
The consistency is distinguished:Liquid shampoos. They are usually packed in glass or plastic bottles. These are shampoos of low viscosity, containing a small amount of thickeners and a number of other useful components that can precipitate;
Creamy shampoos. They are more varied in composition than liquid ones. Contains thickeners: for example, sodium stearate, etc .;
Jelly shampoos (gel-like). They are obtained by introducing thickeners and structure-forming substances into liquid shampoos. Typically, these shampoos are transparent. They are packed in polymer bottles and tubes, which ensures the convenience of their use and dispensing;
dry shampoos (powder). It can be a powdered cosmetic and hygienic product with surfactants, used when washing hair with water. This shampoo produces abundant lather at minimum consumption. Another dry shampoo option is surfactant-free shampoos that do not require water. They are based on kaolin, silicic acid, sodium / magnesium carbonate, which, due to adsorption, partially degrease the hair. The powder is applied to the hair and
after a certain period of time, it is removed (combed out) with a brush or comb.
Known foam shampoos produced in aerosol packages.
Known solid shampoos in the form of toilet soap (foreign production; British company "Lash").
Shampoos for adults (men, women), children and general use (for the whole family) are distinguished by gender and age.Women's shampoos differ from men's in the nature of the scent of the perfume fragrance, the type and color scheme of the packaging. Some companies, when developing shampoo formulations, take into account the peculiarities of the structure of the hair and scalp.
Baby shampoos are formulated with the greatest care. They contain special surfactants that do not have a strong degreasing and irritating effect, do not irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes, i.e. soft (gentle) surfactants are used. As additives contain large fatty substances, vitamins and plant extracts. In order to avoid allergic reactions, a reduced amount of dyes and fragrances, conditioning additives is introduced into children's shampoos. pH of baby shampoos should be. neutral. Shampoos for babies are often packaged in the form of a toy.
According to the concentration of surfactants, shampoos are divided into regular and concentrated.Shampoos with a mass fraction of surfactants from 16 to 25% are considered concentrated. These shampoos must be diluted with water before use.
In a high-quality shampoo, surfactants should be at least 10-16%. Shampoos containing 2-4% surfactants wash the hair with great difficulty.
Shampoos differ in frequency of use (for periodic and frequent (daily) use, by type of packaging, by country and by manufacturer, by name, etc.
Medical (medicinal) shampoos occupy a special place in the assortment of shampoos.
These shampoos are manufactured by pharmaceutical companies. These are cosmetic products with medicinal properties. They are required to undergo dermatological tests and clinical trials. They are sold through pharmacies. They are used after consultation and under the supervision of specialists (dermatologists).
The course of treatment with medical shampoo, for example, provides for 2 times its use per week and is 3-4 weeks (treatment of dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis), 6-8 weeks (for thinning hair), 8-12 weeks for treatment of scalp psoriasis.
Shampoos are available as piece goods and in a series of hair care products.
Organoleptic indicators (appearance, color, odor) and physicochemical (surfactant content; foaming ability: foam number and foam stability; pH value (pH 5.0-8.5); dry matter and determine chlorides (thickeners) are normalized.
Shelf life.
The guaranteed shelf life of shampoos is established by the manufacturer. Subject to the conditions of transportation and storage, the guaranteed shelf life for liquid shampoos based on synthetic surfactants should be at least 18 months, for creamy and jelly-like ones - at least 12 months from the date (date) of manufacture.
In reality, the shelf life for shampoos is as follows: 18 months, 24 months, 36 months, etc.
Question 5. Hair dyes
Traditionally, hair dye products are divided:
the actual paint;
tinting agents;
brightening agents.
The main distinguishing features of coloring agents are: - the origin of paints,
the type of coloring agent used,
the duration of the coloring effect.
The duration of the coloring effect is determined by the resistance of the paint to washing off with water.
By origin, paints are divided into: natural (vegetable) and chemical.
According to the type of dye used, hair dye products are produced on the basis of:
Discoloration substances (hydrogen peroxide - perhydrol, hydroperite). These agents are called oxidizing dyes. These are the most common paints;
Chemical dyes of organic synthesis (paraphenylenediamine, resorcinol, oxyhydroquinone, paraaminophenol, etc.), which, when exposed to hair keratin, enter into a chemical reaction with it;
Physical dyes that do not chemically react with the keratin of the hair;
Natural dyes of plant origin (henna, basma, chamomile, pericarp of the Manchurian nut, etc.);
According to the color fastness, the products are divided into:
unstable, which are washed off after 1-2 times of shampooing;
low-resistance - washed off after 3-4 times;
relatively persistent (semi-persistent) - washed off after 6-8 times;
persistent - 20-24 times;
ultra-resistant, which provide long-lasting staining and are washed off after more than 24 shampoos.
Schwarzkopf offers consumers three color fastness grades:
degree - the funds are washed off after 6-8 times of washing the hair;
degree - washed off after 24 times;
degree - means that provide persistent staining.
In addition to those considered, coloring agents are subdivided according to the types of cosmetic preparations, according to consistency (liquid, foamy, gel-like, creamy, pasty, powdery), according to tones (shades, nuances), according to the method of application and other characteristics.
Chemical paints
In modern trade practice, hair coloring products are most often divided into:
tinting agents;
soft paints;
persistent paints.
Tint products - color the hair from the surface, shallow and fragile. The impact that the means of this group have is called not staining, but toning, because natural (natural) hair color does not change, it is given a certain fashionable shade (tone) and additional shine.
Tinted shampoos and balms, with regular use, are used as a means to eliminate unwanted hair shade.
The concentration of dyes in foundations is the lowest.
These are not persistent or low-persistence products.
Depending on the individual characteristics of the product, the acquired shade disappears:
after 1-3 times of shampooing (mascara, varnish, mousse),
after 3-4 times or earlier (tinted shampoos and rinses),
6-8 single shampoos (coloring shampoos, tint paints, foam, gel).
Most modern tonal products contain useful additives: provitamin B5, vegetable oils, chamomile extracts, henna and others, which help to strengthen and restore the hair structure. A number of products contain conditioners to increase shine and volume.
With these tools, you can frequently change hair color and experiment with color.
It is impossible to paint over gray hair with the help of tint products. When used, only a transparent film forms on the surface of gray hair.
It is not possible to radically change hair color with the help of tinting agents.
Release form: in the form of tinted and tonal shampoos, balms and rinses, foams, mousses, gels, mascaras, tinted varnishes.
Soft paints - paints do not contain ammonia, but contain a low concentration hydrogen peroxide solution (up to 2%); The pH of these paints is 8.0-9.0. It is used for dyeing hair "tone on tone", one tone lighter or one tone darker.
These are permanent paints. Such paints are washed off after 20-24 shampoos.
They are suitable for dyeing all types of hair, but especially for weak (porous), bleached and permed hair.
They paint over up to 50% of gray hair.
The constant use of these dyes contributes to the accumulation of the dye in the hair, and therefore it is necessary to tint only the regrown hair at the roots.
Soft colors are not used to lighten hair. Commodity forms - in the form of creams, gels, liquids.
Persistent paints.
These are the most common paints that can be used to produce almost any color.
Permanent paints contain ammonia (or a substitute) and an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide). The concentration of hydrogen peroxide is 6.0-12.0%.
These are dyes of the oxidizing type, which are prepared, most often on the basis of aniline derivatives.
3. They are the lowest molecular weight and, therefore, have the greatest penetrating ability. When mixed with hydrogen peroxide, the paint acquires the desired color.
Staining mechanism. Hair coloring most often takes place in an alkaline environment. Under the influence of ammonia, hair scales swell. Their outer layer becomes permeable. Hydrogen peroxide (oxidizing agent) partially destroys the hair's own pigment. Coloring substances, penetrating into the hair shaft, paint them in the appropriate color. The greater the penetrating power of the dyes, the more resistant the paint.
With frequent washing of hair, the color of persistent dyes does not change for a long time (24 times or more).
Long-lasting dyes provide 70-100% coverage of gray hair.
Known means for restoring the natural color of gray hair without dyeing are preparations containing lead acetate, which in combination with sulfide compounds accumulates on the surface of the hair and in the hair itself, which thus gradually acquire a black or brownish color. A modern hair color restorer cream Poly Re-Nature from Schwarzkopf (produced separately for women and men), using the oxygen contained in the air and the substances that make up the hair, activates the formation of a pigment identical to the natural hair pigment. The drug is applied for some time until the noticeable disappearance of gray hair.
8. Permanent paints include most of the bleaching agents - these are paints for lightening, blonding and highlighting.
Depending on the effect of lightening, the funds are divided into three degrees: 1st - light lightening (by 1-3 tones); 2nd - intense lightening (3-5 tones); 3rd - maximum lightening (by 5-6 tones and even by Tones).
Lightening paints differ from persistent dark-colored paints by a high content of oxidants (hydroperite, hydrogen peroxide). Lightening paints for 1-3 tones can contain up to 9% hydrogen peroxide; paints for lightening more than 3 tones - up to 12% hydrogen peroxide.
In addition to an oxidizing agent, dyes for blonding contain dye bases that give the hair certain light shades, for example, ashy blond, light blond, golden blond, light blond, etc.
Special brightening products for men (for coarse and unmanageable hair) have been developed - Mr Solvex SUPER BLOND.
Highlighting products allow you to achieve light shades when dyeing hair with separate thin strands.
Modern lightening products are multifunctional products that can be used to bleach hair before dyeing, to lighten 4-6 tones, highlight, to bleach previously colored hair (for example, Londacolor Arctic Blonde from Londa).
To lighten the hair, lightening shampoos are also used, which have a softer effect and lighten the hair by 1-2 tones. The effect of lightening hair can only be achieved with constant use of the product.
Permanent dyes can be harmful to the hair and scalp. Therefore, it is recommended to test for an allergic reaction before using permanent paints. To do this, a small amount of paint, dissolved with hydroperite, must be applied to the elbow and left for 24 hours. or 48 hours (paints from Schwarzkopf). In the absence of irritation, paint can be used.
Permanent paints, as a rule, are a set, which includes paint and an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide in liquid or solid form) in separate packages, in addition, a conditioner or conditioner or conditioner is included in the set of many paints.
Modern permanent dyes provide hair care during and after dyeing, due to the introduction of conditioning and moisturizing additives, vitamins, UV filters, etc. ... In addition, the use of rinses or conditioners, which are included with the dyes, leads to smoothing of the hair shaft scales, which also contributes to better light reflection and the appearance of hair shine.
Daily care for colored hair should be carried out with the help of special shampoos, conditioners and conditioners for colored hair.
Question 6. The quality of paints.Requirements for the quality of paints. Modern hair dyes must meet the following requirements:
be safe (do not irritate the scalp and do not change the structure of the hair);
have a high ability to dye hair, characterized by a dyeing indicator, which shows how many tones the hair color has changed during dyeing and its compliance with the color indicated in the marking (on the package) or in the product catalog;
easily and evenly applied along the entire length of the hair, without drops and smudges;
give hair a beautiful appearance (vitality, natural shine, elasticity, the ability to easily give in to styling);
paint over gray hair. It must be remembered that if the gray hair on the head is 70% or more, it is necessary to use persistent paints;
provide protection and hair care during and after dyeing. Modern formulations of paints, especially persistent ones, should contain nutrients: jojoba oil, avocado,
soybeans (protect hair from drying out and give it density), vitamins, plant extracts, protective UV filters, etc.;
Should quickly color the hair, i.e. staining time - 20-30 minutes;
Be light and easy to use, etc.
The quality of hair dye products is characterized by organoleptic and physicochemical properties.
By the appearance of paints (cream, gel, liquid) should be. homogeneous and free of impurities. The color and smell of paints should be. specific to the product of this name.
Physicochemical properties of paints according to SanPin are characterized by the following indicators:
LecturesTo teach students the basics of general and private commodity science, as well as to develop skills and abilities in: commodity analysis and marketing research of medicines and other goods of the pharmacy range; determining the impact
