Vera Olkhovskaya
This lesson on cutting techniques is quite simple and can be recommended for beginner couturiers who have already learned how to take measurements and remember their letter designations.
Don't forget to use the table for taking measurements, which you can download for free on Vera Olkhovskaya's website. To do this, click on the table image and enlarge it, save it on your device.
To ensure that the pattern for the base of the back does not overlap the pattern for the base of the shelf, check the width of the paper sheet. It should be no less than the width of the back and shelf combined:
Sat + 4 cm
Back base
We start with vertical and horizontal lines.
We will consider the left cut of the sheet of paper to be the middle line (vertical) of the back (Fig. 1).
Then we draw the initial (first, initial, upper) line, departing from the lower horizontal section of the sheet
Di + 3 cm
Of course, this horizontal and subsequent ones must be strictly parallel to each other and strictly perpendicular to the midline of the back.
We measure from the starting line down Ds and draw a waist line.
From waist up
D boch minus 1 cm
This is for the barrel height level.
From waist down 18 cm– hip level.
To determine the bottom line from the original down - Di or from the waist down Du, depending on what measurement you chose to take.
The horizontal backrest is finished.
Next, set the width of the back at the level of the barrel (Fig. 2):
Shs + 1 cm,
for kinky figures -
Shs + 1.5 cm
There, measure the width of the back to the side seam:
1/2(Cr + 4) minus 2 cm
Width of the sprout - according to the original to the right
1/3Сш + 0.5 cm
The height of the sprout is down the midline of the back:
1/3 the width of the sprout
Shoulder cut. We need to draw two intersecting arcs.
The first arc is from the lateral point of the germ with a radius
Dp + vt
(in many cases, a dart is not needed and you can get by with a fit 1 cm)
The second arc is from the midpoint along the waist with a radius Military industrial complex. If there is a shoulder pad, add more 1 cm, that is, the radius will be
Vpk + 1 cm
To design the armhole
From the back width point (red cross) – perpendicular 7-8 cm.
Set aside at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) minus 2 cm
Draw the side cut with a straight line.
Shelf
If you are building the base of the shelf on the same sheet, extend the horizontal lines of the waist, hips and bottom (Fig. 3). If on another sheet, copy the horizontal lines for the shelf pattern onto a new sheet.
Then take the measurement from your waist up DPT and draw the original horizontal line for the shelf.
From the starting line of the shelf downwards, measure Vg and draw a line for the height of the chest, then again from the original down - the line for the height of the armhole.
To find the height of the armhole of the shelf, you need to measure the distance from the midpoint of the sprout to the level of the barrel using the back drawing. The resulting distance should be reduced in accordance with the shelf armhole reduction table.
And set the already reduced value, as was said, down from the original line of the shelf.
The next stage, which can roughly be called “width limitation,” is shown in Fig. 4. The most important vertical of the shelf pattern is the semi-skid - this vertical corresponds to the midline of the human torso, passing through the jugular cavity and the navel.
We start from the original line of the shelf - measure the width of the neck along it from the half-skid:
Neck width = sprout width
Neck depth = neck width + 1 cm
The depth of the neck is measured, as you guessed it, down the half-skid.
We connect the resulting neck points with a smooth curve.
At chest height from half-skid, measure Rtsg and mark the center of the chest convexity - we will need this point to build on chest dart.
From the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the chest:
Shg 2 + 0.5 or 1 cm.
From the resulting point upward, a perpendicular segment 4 – 5 cm. Its top is one of the points of the armhole and you can immediately make a bisector from the corner of the armhole (shaded in yellow) - 2 – 2.5 cm. We'll take care of the design later.
And again, from the half-skid at the armhole level, set aside the width of the front to the side seam:
1/2(Cr + Pb) + 2 cm
Measure at hip level
1/2(Sat + Pb) + 2 cm
Now, the shoulder section (Fig. 5).
We find the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs:
The first arc is made from the side point of the neck with a radius Dp;
The second - from the point of convexity of the chest with a radius Npp + 1 cm for the shoulder pad.
We connect the resulting shoulder point with the side neck point already existing on the original line.
The armhole will be formed according to the existing shoulder points, “5” and “2”. The last point of the armhole should be shifted up and towards the half-skid 1 cm.
Connect the “unit” to the point marked at hip level. This will give a preliminary line for the side cut, without a bust dart for now.
Construction of a “side” dart (Fig. 6).
To determine the dart solution, we compare the length of the back barrel and the length of the shelf barrel, measuring them according to the drawing.
We start the top line of the dart by stepping back down the side cut from the “unit” by 5 cm.
Next we measure 
tuck solution.
The top of the dart (Fig. 7) should not reach the center of the chest bulge on 2.5 cm– mark the point “2.5” and connect it with the points already existing on the side cut.
We align the sides of the dart along the longer side and build the missing section of the side seam (red dotted line).
All that remains is to draw out all the lines smoothly, lengthen the half-skid by 1 - 1.5 cm and add darts (see below and in Fig. 8).
If the dart is too large, then this base will not suit you.
But, of course, the waist dart of the front should be shifted from the center of the chest bulge to 2.5 cm to the side seam. This will place the waist dart underneath the top of the bust dart.
The finished pattern for the base with a side dart for the bust is shown in Fig. 9.
Patterns of dresses of popular styles this season in full size
|
23:40 Unknown 16 Comments
Hello, in this article we will look at one of the methods of constructive modeling - changing the three-dimensional shape of the basic design of a dress by remodeling the chest dart and shoulder dart backrests
Some shoulder styles come in a more voluminous shape than the basic design of the dress. One way to obtain such a shape from a basic structure is through structural modeling. As the volume increases, the nature of the supporting surfaces changes - the gap between the figure and the clothing along the chest line increases, which leads to greater separation of the side sections of the back and front from the surface of the figure. In other words, in the front at the level of the chest line and on the back in the area of the shoulder blades, the curvature of the surface is reduced, and the product turns out to be flatter, not emphasizing the chest.
Structurally, this model form is achieved by reducing the openings of the upper front dart and the shoulder dart of the back, up to their complete elimination by remodeling the base darts.
Under dart demodeling understand the transfer of any part of the solution into sections of the product (armhole, neckline, hemline, etc.) in order to lengthen these sections, which allows you to obtain a flatter shape that does not emphasize the shape of the body.
I propose to consider how to properly model darts. First, let's move to Blank sheet paper details of the basic design of the dress and be sure to mark the control points of the armhole.
In three-dimensional products, waist darts, as a rule, are not used (depending on the product model). Therefore, we can simply remove the darts along the waistline on the front and back. Depending on the model and style of the product, the solution of the waist darts along the side sections of both parts is reduced partially or completely; in accordance with this, new side sections are built. If there is a notch along the waist line on the middle line of the back, then this dart can also be removed and a new middle cut of the back can be drawn.
Well, now let's move on to modeling the darts.
Shelf modeling
To perform modeling on the front drawing, we will construct auxiliary lines for those sections where it is possible to model the share of the chest dart:
in the middle line- an auxiliary line is constructed from the top of the chest dart to the line of the middle of the front at a right angle;
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the chest dart to the armhole line of the front 1-2 cm above the reference point;
to the bottom line- from the top of the chest dart, a vertical line is built to the bottom line of the shelf.
Thus, we can model the chest dart: in the line of the shoulder, in the line of the middle, in the line of the armhole and in the line of the bottom of the front.
Let's consider several options for modeling a chest dart.
First way
Let's cut the front part along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the hem line.
Let's translate the solution of the chest dart:
to the armhole line can be remodeled up to 2cm,
in line with the shoulder- up to 1cm,
we will unmodel the rest to the bottom line shelves.
When translating the dart, the cuts were broken, let's draw a new shoulder line, armhole line and hem line.
And so, we got a shelf without a chest dart.
Since we unmodeled the dart into the shoulder line by up to 1 cm, the shoulder line was accordingly lengthened by this amount. If the model does not require this, this value is cut off from the end of the arm. We also lengthened the bottom line, that is, the shelf expanded towards the bottom line. If such extension along the hemline is not desired, then half or 2/3 of this extension can be removed from the side line.
Second way
This method is used if the product V-neck neckline or jacket-type collar.
We cut the shelf along the auxiliary lines drawn to the armhole line and the middle line.
Now you need to rotate the upper central part around the cut point on the middle line so that the center of the chest drops by 0.5-1cm. The remaining part of the dart can be modeled into the armhole line, but the permissible value is up to 2 cm.
We draw a new section of the armhole, and a neckline or collar is built along the middle line, in accordance with the model of the product. And again we got a shelf without a chest dart.
Third way(modeling to the middle line)
If the front is not split or has a blind fastener, then you can use this method of unmodeling the chest dart.
Let's cut the shelf part along all the constructed auxiliary lines.
This time, the upper part of the shelf must be lowered parallel to the cut line by up to 1 cm. We transfer the chest dart solution up to 2 cm to the armhole line, the remaining part to the bottom line.
By lowering the upper part of the shelf by up to 1 cm, we shortened the line of the middle of the shelf by this amount. Therefore, it is necessary to lengthen the front by the amount of reduction of the shelf along the chest line. Then we will draw a new armhole line and a hem line.
The extension of the shelf along the bottom line can also be reduced by removing half or 2/3 of this extension from the side cut.
Back modeling
To model the shoulder dart for the convexity of the shoulder blades, we will also need to construct auxiliary lines for the back sections:
to the armhole line- an auxiliary line is drawn from the top of the shoulder groove to the middle of the armhole section from the control point to the end shoulder point;
to the bottom line- the cut line is drawn first horizontally from the control point of the armhole to a length of 1.5-2 cm, and then vertically down.
Based on this, we can model the shoulder dart of the back into two zones: in the shoulder line and in the armhole line.
Let's cut the back part along the auxiliary lines and transfer the shoulder dart solution:
in line with the shoulder- the same amount as on the shelf, in order to maintain the fit (up to 1cm)
to the armhole line- transfer the remaining part of the dart (up to 1-2cm).
In addition, along the bottom line it is necessary to perform exactly the same expansion that we got on the shelf.
Let's draw new cuts along the line of the shoulder, armhole and bottom. If on the shelf along the shoulder line an extension is cut off, which was obtained after demodeling the chest dart, then on the back it is also possible to cut off this extension from the end of the shoulder. It is also possible to leave the shoulder section of the back longer than the shoulder line of the front; during the sewing process, this difference is applied to the fit of the back shoulder.
Thus, we have a back pattern without a shoulder dart.
In products with split back
along the middle line there is another possible zone into which part of the shoulder dart can be modeled - this is the middle line of the back. It is permissible to model up to 0.6 cm of a shoulder dart on this section of the back.
In this case, the back neckline becomes wider by this amount. If, according to the product model, neck expansion is not desirable, then the shoulder line on the neck side can be extended by the amount of neck expansion, and the same amount can be cut off from the end of the shoulder. Next, new sections of the neckline and back armhole are constructed.
Sleeve modeling
When modeling the chest dart and shoulder dart of the back on both parts, we lengthened the armhole. Therefore, we need to change the sleeve cap. To do this, we will draw two cut lines on the sleeve pattern. The first line runs perpendicular to the elbow line from the top of the elbow dart to the sleeve cap.
Let's construct the second line as follows: measure the length of the collar from the first line to the line of the middle of the sleeve. We will put the resulting value along the edge from the middle line towards the front cut of the sleeve. Divide the bottom line of the sleeve in the area from the front cut to the middle line in half.
We connect the resulting points with a straight line, which will be the second cut line.
We cut the sleeve along the drawn lines.
Now we spread our sleeve along the edge so that the expansion is equal to the amount of unmodeling of the dart into the armhole of the front and back minus 0.5-1 cm. be careful, the amount of dart demodeling on both parts is different, but from each value we subtract 0.5-1 cm. What value to subtract depends on how much wide sleeve must be obtained.
We draw a new edging line with a rise along the middle line by 1-2 cm.
And our sleeve pattern for the new armhole is ready.
When modeling a chest dart, you should know that a figure with big breasts(size 52+) in products with set-in sleeve A good fit cannot be achieved without a bust dart. Therefore, it is better to limit the modeling of the chest dart to size 52.
In conclusion, I will add: the shape of a product without a chest and shoulder dart can be obtained not only by modeling the basic design, but also by building such a design at once, lengthening the armhole, lengthening the front line and expanding the shoulder line. But more on that in the next publications!
Pattern development methods different styles By moving the chest dart, they provide enormous opportunities for creating a variety of models of women's dresses when used skillfully.
The location of the dart depends on the style, in other words, on the designer’s plan, i.e. from you.
Let's consider the main options for the location of the chest dart. Let's start simple.
One of the main structural elements women's clothing is a dart that is necessary to give the product the correct appearance, i.e. desired shape. This applies mostly to the lungs. women's dresses, where the chest volume is formed exclusively due to chest darts. These darts can be moved on the bodice in any direction, in accordance with the style of the product : to the middle of the front, on the waistline, in the side seam, in the armhole, in the neckline, in the yoke, in reliefs, in drapery, in undercuts, etc. With skillful use of this technique, you can develop a huge number of different models of women's clothing.
Main– no matter in which direction you move the dart, its center should always be directed towards the highest point of the chest. In our drawing it is indicated by point G7.
Before you start designing, you must copy the drawing of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper, or rather the part of it that you are going to change.
Let's start simple.
Moving the dart to the side line(in the side seam).
To do this, copy the upper part of the shelf from the pattern of the base of the dress onto a sheet of paper.
We move the chest dart on the base pattern closer to the armhole line by 3 cm and deepen it by 2 cm. To do this, from point B7, continuing the shoulder line, set aside 3 cm and place point 3.
Draw a vertical line from it down, extending it 2 cm below the level of point G7 and place point 2.
From point B9 along the shoulder line we set aside 3 cm, we get point 31.
Rice. 5
From point 2 through point 31 we draw a straight line. From point 2 as from the center through point 3 we draw an arc until it intersects with a straight line. We denote the intersection point as 32. We connect points P5 and 32.
Fig.6
We divide the T4P lateral line into three equal parts. We designate the upper division point as 33 and connect it to point 2.
Rice. 7
We cut the shelf along the marked line and move it apart, while closing the chest dart.
Rice. 8
The dart along the waist line can be moved 3 - 4 cm towards the side line.
We correct the shoulder seam with a straight line.
My teaching activity makes me think, doubt and look for the best ways to explain: how to build this or that node. Not all methods give equally successful results for different types figures.
And at the same time, there is no point in looking for the most accurate and successful one. The very formulation of the question is amateurish. I try to explain and show with examples: all methods are good when you understand the design principle. And at the same time, none is ideal.
Let's look at the construction of the “dart solution for the bulge of the chest” knot in women's basic shoulder designs.
I recorded a short video tutorial for you with explanations and an “explanatory note” in the form of this article.
How the chest dart solution is determined in different design methods.
The complexity of this node is due to the fact that it is not possible to measure a physical indicator on the body in a direct way. Sometimes, in the author's methods, attempts are made to determine it indirectly, but it turns out only approximately. There are no reference points!
And I tell the students that the pattern basic basis- it’s easy: “measured - drawn”. In fact. This is how it is in all methods, but taking into account the nuances.
If you study more than one or two design techniques, you will be surprised at how similar they are to each other in basic principles: constructing a drawing grid and limiting construction areas to verticals and horizontals.
But it is surprising how differently the dart for the bulge of the chest looks and is calculated. It can be built from the line of the middle of the shelf (EMKO SEV), from the armhole (Zlachevskaya G.M.), but the most common option is to locate the dart from the shoulder cut. The top of the dart is always directed towards the center of the chest (CG, VG, VTG - different names for one point).
building a basic framework according to Zlachevskaya
building a basic framework for EMKO SEV
For example, in the method of G.M. Zlachevskaya uses two measurements of chest width: 1) along the convex part of the chest and 2) above the chest. If you correctly took the SHG and SHG control measurements, then the pattern will turn out to be quite accurate.
In the “Müller and Son” method, the algorithm for constructing a chest dart uses a formula that takes into account the circumference of the chest, but does not take into account the fullness of the chest.
1/10 POG (half chest circumference third). And often the solution turns out to be insufficient. Individual fit has to be adjusted: add 1-2 cm to the calculation formula.
A more complex path and more accurate construction is described in the EMKO TsOTSHL method. Two measurements of chest circumference are involved in the calculations: SG 1 and SG 2.
The depth of the dart is determined by the formula
2 (SG2-SG1) + 2 cm
Yes. The EMKO TsOTSHL technique is more accurate, but it is also more complex. More complex measurements, more reservations, tabular additions and conditions when constructing knots.
construction of a dart using the TsOTSHL method
constructing a dart using the Muller and Son method
The technique of the French designer Lin Jacques found fans due to its simplicity of explanation and construction. There are no complicated measurements or formulas here. Take the tuck depth from the plate according to the exhaust gas measurements. Or rather, determine approximately in the interval between the OG indicators of your size (here the “range” between the measurements is as much as 10 cm).
Literally in the book it is written as follows: “The solution of the chest dart cannot be determined by measuring on the figure or by simple proportional calculation based on number of measurements. This value is taken based on the exhaust gas.
In addition, the depth of the dart is adjusted depending on the posture.
If the shoulders are tilted back and the chest protrudes forward, then the size is increased by 1-2 cm
if the shoulders are tilted forward and the chest width is small, then the size should be reduced by 1-2 cm.”
chest dart solution according to Lin Jacques method
building a basic framework according to Lin Jacques
The English method of Winfred Aldrich solves the problem of finding the chest dart solution in a very similar way. The chest dart solution is determined by the tabular method. The data in the table looks very plausible for standard figures. Overall, this is a very good, solid and uncomplicated technique for beginners. For figures with peculiarities of posture, you should take real rather than standard measurements.
building a basic framework according to W. Aldrich
chest dart solution according to the English method
I cannot consider all the diversity of the world of design in a short article. I touched upon only the most popular techniques in the former CIS, translated into Russian.
And for dessert - Chinese design techniques, completely unusual for us.
Practicing designers in China use a small number of dimensional characteristics and calculated proportional construction.
The constructions are simple. First, a base is built without darts, and only then darts are applied to the base base.
Many Chinese methods use the principle of a right triangle, in which one of the legs is always equal to 15 cm, and the second leg is a floating value X. This value is determined by calculation method depending on the construction unit.
To determine the X value when constructing a chest dart:
(OG 3 – OG 5) / 2
Og 3 is the chest circumference at the convex points, written in full size. Dimensional sign Og5 measured immediately after measurement Og3 , having measuring tape on the back in the same place, and in front lowering it lower, under the base of the mammary glands.
Wondering about the attitude ( 15: X ) , you can build a dart on any site
shelves, directing it to the side, neckline, armhole, shoulder, side or waist sections.
building a basic framework using Chinese methods
dart depth comparison different methods with the same physical characteristics.
I hope I was able to interest you in the material. Design it yourself! It's not as difficult as it seems at first. But it’s not easy either!
If you are unable to master construction on your own using books or purchased CDs, then come to me at.
I know the reason for your failures. I say this with complete confidence. There is only one condition in my courses: work! The way I do it, with passion and without laziness.
A bodice with side darts is very popular among craftswomen due to the ease of modeling and sewing the product. This method of modeling can be successfully used where complex shapes are not needed, because due to the minimum of seams on the bodice, you can very advantageously show, for example, an original print or fabric texture. This design option can be used when sewing dresses, blouses, and shirts.
Advice! Before you start modeling, draw and determine the angle of inclination of the side dart. It can be positioned at different angles relative to the top of the bust dart, depending on the model.
Modeling a dress pattern with side darts
To model darts, use one, which we hope you already have in your arsenal. If you don't have basic pattern dresses and you are not yet ready to build it yourself, we offer you. From five life-size sizes, choose the one that fits your measurements best.
From the bottom point of the armhole, set aside 5-6 cm down the side (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). On the pattern, mark the point C.G. (center of the chest) and extend the chest dart by connecting the extreme points of the dart with the center of the chest point (new top of the chest dart). From point 5-6, draw a segment to the top of the bust dart (C.G. - center of the chest). Cut the pattern along the modeling line. Close the chest dart and shorten the opened side dart by 2 cm (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with a side dart
IMPORTANT! When moving the chest dart to the side line, you can not shift the top of the dart to the Center of the chest point, in this case the modeling will look like in Fig. 2 and 3.
From the bottom point of the bodice armhole, set aside 3-5 cm (the value is not constant and may vary depending on the model of the product). Connect point 3-5 to the Center of the chest point and make a cut from the side to the point C.G.
Rice. 2. Transferring the dart to the side line
Next, cut the chest dart along one side and close it. To do this, you need to cut the pattern along one of the sides of the chest dart to the C.G. point and, aligning the sides of the dart, glue it together. The side dart opens automatically to the desired depth.
Then shorten the opened bust dart by 1.5-2 cm so that its top moves to the left of the center of the bust.
What is it for? A slightly shorter dart will smoothly fit the contours of the bust and will not create sharp angles.
The finished bodice pattern is shown in Fig. 2b. The bodice is cut with a fold along the middle front line.
Rice. 3. Bodice with side dart
Even more original patterns And interesting ideas for creativity you will find on the website Anastasia Korfiati's Sewing School. Subscribe for free and be the first to receive new lessons!
