TRADITIONAL NATIONAL CLOTHING OF KABARDINS AND BALKARTERS
While the man lived in the cave, he thought little about the color of his “clothes”. To escape the cold, our ancestor, with great skill, put into action all the reserves he had at hand. Animal skins, tree bark, and foliage were used. This practical need to cover one's body in order to warm it and protect it from abrasions and bruises was the initial impetus for the creation of the suit. Here, as they say, “if I don’t survive, I wish I were still alive.” Actually, the “invention” of clothing is a consequence of man’s struggle for his existence.
Gradually, with the development of civilization, other requirements begin to be placed on clothing. Clothing no longer only protects a person from various hardships in life, but also serves as decoration. So, in order to be known as a “man of taste,” the ancient Egyptian had to wear a linen apron, which was fastened to his hips with a sash or belt. And in Ancient Rome, a tunic was considered “fashionable” clothing - a “dimensional” shirt, formed from a piece of material folded in half, in the center of which there was a hole for the head, and on the sides for the arms, etc.
As time passed, socio-economic formations changed, and views on clothing changed. This is how the national clothing of Kabardians and Balkars evolved over centuries. There were great similarities in the traditional clothing of Kabardians and Balkars. This community has developed over a long historical period. The general military life was also important.
MEN'S CLOTHING
The men's clothing of the Kabardians and Balkars was basically the same type. It was largely made from local materials: sheepskin, cattle leather, wool was processed into felt, from which hats, burkas, and homespun cloth were made. Kabardians and Balkars received silk, velvet, and cotton fabrics through developed trade relations.
The main parts of men's clothing for Kabardians and Balkars were the beshmet and specially shaped trousers.

A short caftan-beshmet was worn over a shirt. The beshmet tightly covered the figure, fastened to the waist, made of lace self made buttons - knots and loops. It had a high stand-up collar and long sleeves tapering towards the wrist, fastened at the bottom with the same buttons. Below the waist, the beshmet smoothly expanded, emphasizing the slimness of the figure, which Kabardians and Balkars paid attention to Special attention The length of the beshmet varied, but in most cases it did not reach the knees by 8-10 cm. True, the old people wore longer beshmets than the young. The beshmet had sewn pockets on the chest, and sewn-in side internal pockets on the sides, below the waist. It was most often sewn from black, white, brown fabrics, and in the mountains - often from homespun cloth. The beshmet was considered an everyday light outerwear; it was worn at home and when working in the fields. To work in cold weather, it was quilted on a thin layer of wool or cotton wool. The wealthier layers of the population also had holiday beshmets made from satin, silk, and woolen factory fabric. When using a beshmet as weekend clothing, it was belted with a narrow belt with a metal set: a buckle, a tip, plaques, pendants, etc.
Making beshmet was a complex task that required a certain skill, so it was sewn by famous rural craftswomen.
The trousers, made from homespun cloth or thick factory-made fabric, mostly dark in color, consisted of straight trouser legs that were slightly tapered at the bottom. A diamond-shaped wedge was sewn between the legs. They were worn on a braided cord, tucking the legs into leggings. The leggings tightly covered the leg from ankle to knee. They were tied at the knees with straps. In the mountainous regions of Balkaria, trousers are often made from sheep skins.
The mountaineers' pants were very comfortable for fast walking, running, and horse riding.
Clothing, consisting of a beshmet, trousers and leggings, fully corresponded to the living conditions of a warrior, hunter, and shepherd. Everything about it was strictly selected, it did not restrict movement, and allowed you to silently walk along any path, climb rocks, etc.
The full highlander costume included a Circassian coat, which was worn over a beshmet. The Circassian got its name from the Russians, who first saw it among the Adyghe-Circassians. It served to some extent as elegant clothing and was worn when going to public places (mosque, village gatherings, government), on visits, to dances, etc. Custom did not allow visiting these places wearing only a beshmet, “underdressed,” and such an appearance could be regarded as disrespect for society and existing etiquette. The Circassian coat was made from homespun cloth of the highest quality, usually gray, white and black.
The Circassian coat fitted the figure tightly to the waist and widened towards the bottom; instead of a collar, it had a cutout on the chest, from which a beshmet peeked out. It was fastened at the waist with several (3-5) homemade ribbon buttons and loops. Gasyrnits were sewn on both sides of the chest - pockets with small compartments into which round wooden or bone tubes with charges for firearms prepared in them were placed. The number of gazyrs on one side of the Circassian Kabardians ranged from 8 to 10, but usually there were 8 of them, which distinguished the Kabardian Circassians from the Circassians of neighboring peoples, whose number of gazyrs reached 12. Their sizes were different. The poor peasants had them simple, wooden with white bone tips, the rich ones were made of ivory, often ivory, with blackened silver or even gold caps connected at the top by an elegant chain. Subsequently, the gas cylinders lost their purpose and were preserved as decoration. The Circassian coat had no pockets. Its straight and wide sleeves went down significantly below the hands, so it was usually turned away. According to custom, the folded sleeves were lowered during dances.
The length of the Circassian coat was not certain, but among the Kabardians and Balkars it was elongated and went down below the knees by 15-20 cm longer than among neighboring peoples. Especially long Circassian coats, reaching almost to the ground, were worn by mullahs and their students.
The Circassian coat was worn buttoned or belted. Only old people could wear it wide open. It appeared to be a necessary accessory of a man's suit for Kabardians and Balkars. It was removed only at night and on days of mourning. It consisted of a well-crafted black leather strap 2-3.5 cm wide and metal or silver plaques. The belts were made various types. Some of them only had a buckle, a support and a tip. Others are several belt plaques of various shapes and two lateral tips, one on each side; such belts were worn by the older generation. Middle-aged men wore belts with four side tips; young men (both married and single) - with three side tips on each side.
In most cases, the straps going down the sides, in addition to the tips, had several plaques. All of them were decorated with blackened ornaments and gilding. The metal parts of the belt were decorated with engraving, niello, and filigree on the outside. The reverse side was left white, and the master’s initials and various images were applied on it. On the belt usually hung a dagger with a dagger knife and occasionally, by special permission, a pistol in a holster.
From the end of the 19th century, when the dagger became part of the weapon and became an obligatory accessory and decoration of the mountain costume, jewelers began to make it.
Warm top men's clothing

The warm outerwear of the Ukabardins and Balkars was a fur coat, which was made from sheepskin, and the best copies were made from the skin of rams and even lambs. Such fur coats were called kurpei fur coats. The cut of the fur coat differed from the Circassian coat only in that it was cut without a chest neckline. It had a small stand-up collar, which, like the flaps and sleeves, turned away from the outside with a narrow fur strip sheep's flesh of a young lamb. The fur coat, like the Circassian coat and beshmet, was fastened with 5-6 ribbon buttons and loops. She had a great smell.
Outerwear was iburka. “Without her,” wrote B.E. Khizhnyakov, “it is unthinkable to imagine a male mountaineer.” The burqa was worn at any time of the year, going to the field, market, to another village, etc. It replaced a waterproof raincoat during rain, protected from summer heat and cold wind, and served as a bed in the steppe and pasture. It sheltered both the rider and his horse from the rain, easily turned over backwards and protected the rider and the saddle. IN good weather it was rolled up and tied to the saddle. Burkas were made of black wool. They had a shaggy surface, narrow shoulders and a wide bottom, which gave them a bell-shaped shape. The collar of the burqa had a special clasp. It was inconvenient to walk and herd livestock in long burkas, so felt coats and special burkas were sewn for shepherds and shepherds, which were not only shorter, but also had a hood, a strap and were fastened with several buttons.
Men's hats
The headdress of the Kabardians and Balkars basically corresponded to their clothes. In summer they wore a felt hat with a wide brim, and in winter and in the autumn-spring period they wore a sheepskin hat and a hat. Balkars also wore a hat in the summer.
Felt hats were made from high-quality sheep wool. In most cases they were white, gray and black. Unlike Kabardian hats, Balkar hats, which had a small lowered brim with laces crossing at the top of the head, were more reminiscent of Svan hats. Balkars wore hats with raised brims.
The Kabardian felt hat had an oblong shape, a concave bottom, and raised brims. In the middle and around the brim it was trimmed with braid or fabric of the same color as the felt.
Kabardian and Balkar hats had different shape. One of them was hemispherical in shape, with a narrow fur band and laces from it connecting at the top of the head. This type of hat was worn by the most elderly people. Another type of hat had a fur band with a cloth top of 5-6 cm. The third is a wide fur band tapering towards the top and a small cloth top.
The most common color of the cap was black, but white and gray were also found. The wealthy segments of the population wore hats made of Central Asian astrakhan in brown and gray colors. The Kabardians called such hats Bukhara. Kabardians and Balkars wore a hat at any time of the year and in any place, taking it off only when going to bed. This was the custom. The hat personified male dignity. An attack on a hat, knocking it off the head caused an unforgivable offense, washed away only by blood.
The headdress was complemented by a hood made of white, black or brown homespun cloth. Its main part was a hood in the shape of an isosceles triangle, from which long and wide ends extended in both directions - blades for tying at the neck. The edges of the bashlyk were trimmed with a ribbon made of simple, and sometimes silver or gold threads. A beautifully woven round tassel with fringes of gold or silk threads was sewn to the top of the hood using the same braid. The bashlyk was not only a travel headgear, but also a working one; it was worn by shepherds, shepherds, herd keepers and any man setting off on horseback or in a cart. In cold and inclement weather, it was put on over a hat and tied at the neck, and if the weather was good, then the bashlyk was thrown over the shoulder over the back, over the cloak, and held on the neck with the help of a special ribbon cord. Old people often wore a bashlyk, tied around their waist.
Men's footwear
The shoes of the Kabardians and Balkars differed significantly. It can be divided into two parts: boots and the shoes themselves.
Leggings were made from cloth, felt and morocco without socks, with straps, and each type had its own name, emphasizing what material they were made of (morocco, felt, cloth). The most common color of boots was black, but dark gray and dark were occasionally found. brown colors. Their edges were trimmed with braid or leather. The leather covering was done in such a way that the felt would not rub during walking and riding. Such lining made the pagolenki not only durable, but also decorated them.
Along with leggings, leggings have become widespread. These are the same pagolenki, made from the same materials, but, unlike them, they had sewn socks. They were worn mainly by the wealthy segments of the population.
The boots and leggings had to fit tightly around the legs. They were worn pulled over the legs and trousers tucked into them, and also tied below the knees with special straps. All adult men wore them in winter, spring, autumn, and the Balkars in the mountains - all year round. In summer they wore cloth leggings. A widespread type of footwear among older people was felt and morocco socks.
They wore rawhide leather boots on their feet, which did not have a sewn-on sole. They were made from one piece of cattle skin. The boots had a seam on the heel, toe and upper front part from the toe to the instep. The shape of the jacket was mostly monotonous, but there were also those that had a high back that reached the ankle, and fasteners made of leather buttons. A common type of footwear, convenient in the mountains for hunters, shepherds, shepherds, and mowers, were specially shaped boots with a sole made of woven straps. The Balkars made them from well-pressed rawhide, from which they did not even remove the wool. The dudes were put on bare feet, having previously filled their inner part with well-mashed grass. Traditional dress shoes were morocco dudes, which were sewn from leather with a special openwork stitch. At first they did not have soles, but then they began to be hemmed. Prosperous people wore boots made of black morocco, wearing super-leather galoshes. Morocco boots were worn on morocco leggings. Wealthy people also wore pointed rubber galoshes.
In Balkaria there were also shoes made of felt, covered with leather or with rawhide soles. All local shoes had soft soles, well adapted to the conditions of mountainous terrain. It was convenient for the rider and pedestrian, contributed to the hardening of the legs and the development of the surprisingly light, beautiful gait of the mountaineers.
The traditional development of Kabarda and Balkaria, the strengthening of market relations influenced the change in footwear. Rich mountaineers wore not only galoshes, but also boots.

The traditional national men's costume of Kabardians and Balkars was the clothing of a warrior, a rider, adapted to their living conditions. The men's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars, between which there were no significant differences, was characterized by a dark, restrained color scheme - black, dark brown, gray. In general, neither Kabardians nor Balkars liked bright colors or colorful clothes. This was not in accordance with their spirit and customs. But hoods and beshmets were usually made in different colors than the rest of the costume, enlivening it with a bright spot. Rich and noble people sometimes wore white burkas, Circassian caps, and hats. In some cases, bashlyks were real works of art. They were decorated with braid, gold embroidery, elegant and very complex tassels made of gold and silver threads. Such bashlyks often served as gifts from the bride to the relatives of her future husband. The costume was decorated with a possibly more richly decorated weapon and belt.
At the same time, the Kabardians and Balkars paid great attention to the neatness of their clothes and their elegant cut. Khan-Girey also noted that among the Circassians, incl. and among the Kabardians, it was not customary to dress magnificently and flowerily. “This,” he wrote, “is considered not very decent among them, which is why they try to flaunt taste rather than brilliance, and prefer cleanliness and neatness to pomp.”
The men's clothing of the Kabardians and Balkars was not only well adapted to local conditions, but was also distinguished by its beauty, grace and peculiar elegance. She fully corresponded to the mountaineers’ idea of ​​beauty male figure, emphasized her broad shoulders and thin waist, her slimness and fit, agility, and strength. The herdsman, the hunter, the warrior, and the rider felt equally comfortable and free in clothes that were precisely tailored to the figure and did not restrict movement.
The clothes of the Kabardians and Balkars were also a kind of decoration. These qualities of national clothing ensured its universal recognition in the Caucasus.

WOMEN'S CLOTHING
The clothing of Kabardian and Balkarokimela women has much in common with men's clothing, which indicates the unity of their fundamental principles. There were, of course, significant differences. Ideal female beauty in the Caucasus, a thin waist and a flat chest were considered. To achieve such a figure, Kabardian Balkar girls from the age of 10-12 wore morocco corsets with wooden slats, worn over the naked body and tightly encircling the girl’s entire bust. This ensured the thinness and slenderness of the girl’s figure. The corset was tightened with laces and removed only on the wedding night.
Over the corset they wore an undershirt, which had the same cut as the men's shirt. But it was longer and extended below the knees. Her sleeves were also straight and wide, long, sometimes covering her hands. Women's shirt also had a straight cut and a small stand-up collar fastened with a button. Shirts were made from cotton or silk fabric of various, sometimes bright, colors. Great attention was paid to the choice of material for a smart shirt, since the collar, front slit and sleeves peeked out from the dress. Connected with this was the custom of Kabardian and Balkar women to decorate these parts of the shirt with embroidery and beautiful narrow braids.
Old women wore shirts made of cotton fabric in white or several dark colors, while young women sewed them from dark red, blue, brown, etc. The shirts of older women did not have decorations or embroidery.

At the end of the nineteenth century. – beginning XX century a skirt appeared. At the same time, the shirt was no longer made of silk, it was cotton, and the skirt was silk. A dress must be worn over the shirt. Only an old woman at home could walk without a dress. The dress was identical in cut to the Circassian dress - swinging to the hem, collarless, with an open chest and a fastener at the waist. Otherwise, only the sleeves were sewn. At first, the sleeve was cut almost to the very top, went down well below the hand and ended in a rounded blade. Later, the sleeve was made narrow, above the elbow, and separately - a sleeve pendant-blade, which was suspended above the elbow.
The ceremonial dress was usually made of velvet or heavy silk, and a pendant was made from the same material. There was another version of the dress: a frill of the same fabric was sewn to the short, above the elbow, narrow sleeve, covering the arm almost to the hand. This dress was worn by young girls and women. Elderly women wore dresses with long wide sleeves to the brush.
Sleeve pendants and long sleeves were typical for the clothing of noble women and had a certain social meaning: emphasizing their ability not to work.

An important part women's clothing there was a caftan that was worn under a dress over a shirt. It was worn from the age of 10-12 until old age. The caftan was made short and hugged the figure tightly. Its cut coincided with the beshmet, the clasp was in the front and went from the neck to the waist, sometimes there was a stand-up collar. The narrow sleeve ended at the wrist. For decoration, several pairs of silver clasps were sewn onto the chest, sometimes gilded, decorated with turquoise or colored glass, with an ornament applied by engraving, niello or filigree. It was sewn from elegant dense fabrics - heavy silk, velvet, cloth, satin. From under the dress the chest of a caftan with fasteners was visible. But the evolution of the caftan took place. Gradually, the caftan was left with a bib with clasps and a stand-up collar. It was also worn under a dress.
The belt played a very important role in the clothing of Kabardin and Balkar women. It was worn over the dress, cinching the waist. For women of the older generation, the belt was simply made of cloth, wool, or just a wide ribbon, but always with a metal buckle. Middle-aged women wore belts that consisted half of velvet or wide braided stripes, and half of silver, with buckles of various types. Girls wore belts made of silver plates, decorated with gilding, engraving, and filigree. They were made by both local and foreign (Dagestan) craftsmen. The silver belt was of great value and, together with the chest clasps, passed from generation to generation. Many belts that have survived to this day date back 100-150 years. In addition to the belt women's jewelry included earrings, bracelets, rings, and a watch on a long chain.
Warm outerwear for women
According to mountain custom, girls and young women did not wear any warm clothes during the cold season, but could only put on a second quilted dress or throw a scarf over their shoulders. Older married women could wear loose clothing, quilted with a thin layer of wool or cotton wool. Rich Kabardians and Balkars sometimes wore velvet fur coats trimmed with a strip of fur without fasteners, worn not so much for warmth as for beauty. They were lined with squirrel fur, and sometimes they were simply hemmed with lining. Old women, especially in mountainous regions, also wore sheepskin coats. The restrictions adopted by the mountaineers on the wearing of warm clothes by girls and young women had a detrimental effect on their health, but were supported by the Muslim clergy, since this prevented the appearance of women outside the home.

Women's hats
The most important part of clothing was headdresses, in which age differences and changes in the marital status of Kabardian and Balkar women are most clearly visible.
Girls wore a headscarf or walked with their heads uncovered until marriage. The Muslim clergy fought against such a custom, which existed in ancient times, and at the beginning of the 20th century. achieved the adoption by rural communities of a special sentence that prohibited all girls from 10-12 years of age from walking without a headdress or headscarf.
Thus, in the village of Tyzhevo of the 1st section of the Nalchik district, the general meeting on April 6, 1915, under pressure from the Muslim clergy, adopted a verdict that said: “Girls of our village from the age of 10 should not use any kind of combs in their headdresses and not show your hair both in your community and outside it. For violation of this, the parents of such girls should be fined in the income of our public sums of 5 rubles. for each incident of violation.”
When the period of “maturation” began and the girl “started going to dances,” she wore a high cap of various types. Some of them had a cylindrical shape, others had a cone-shaped or rounded shape, others had a cylinder combined with a cone and resembled a man’s helmet, etc. The lower part of the cap was covered with a wide braid of gold and silver threads. The top was covered with cloth or velvet and decorated with radially diverging narrow braids. At the very top there was a decoration in the form of a round or oval cone - made of silver or silver threads. Often the cone was replaced with various images: a bird sitting on a ball, a crescent moon, a blossoming flower, etc. Many of them were silver, decorated with niello, gilding, and filigree. The front part of the hats that came down to ours had decorations in the form of a fringe, reinforced along the upper edge of the braid.
In the second half of the 19th century, Kabardin and Balkar women began to wear, along with high, low hats. They had the shape of a low cylinder or a truncated cone. Unlike tall ones, they were covered with cloth, velvet and decorated with gold and silver embroidery located along the band and on the bottom. A long golden brush descended from the top. The Kabardians called such a cap Crimean, Tatar or Ossetian, which indicated that it was borrowed from neighboring peoples. It was more widespread in Balkaria.
Low caps, known as “crooked caps,” were not worn by Kabardian brides during the wedding period. wedding ceremony, recognizing them as unsuitable for this case. They were worn mainly by girls. Before their first child, women (like brides) wore a cap with a white silk scarf with fringe. Balkar women, unlike Kabardin women, wore hats decorated on the front with rows of coins and trinkets.
After the birth of the first child, the cap was replaced with a small dark-colored bandage. At the same time, the square bandage was folded into a triangle and the head was tied so that the two ends were passed from behind under the braids, one knot was made, then, clasping the head, they were tied again at the crown of the head, and the ends were hidden. The third end, falling onto the back, covered the hair. The change of a girl's headdress to a woman's, timed not for a wedding, but for the birth of the first child, indicates the antiquity of this tradition. A woman, not only legally, but also actually transferred to the category of women-mothers, did not have the right to show her hair. Women from wealthy families tied their heads with a special thin scarf, silk, with patterns on the edges. When leaving the house, the head was covered with a large woolen scarf over the bandage. home production. Such scarves were worn mainly by older women. Large, thin woolen or silk scarves in black, cream, burgundy and other colors with fringe and flowers were also highly valued. Young women wore a headband over a headband and girls wore a cap over a cap, white silk scarves with fringes, and black silk scarves of two types - with and without fringe and with different patterns.
Gradually, the hat, like a formal dress, began to turn into a festive wedding headdress. At the beginning of the twentieth century. girls from wealthy families began to wear gauze scarves, lace scarves, and scarves made in Vologda.
Women's shoes
The shoes of Kabardian and Balkar women were mostly homemade and in many ways similar to men's. These were felt and morocco socks, boots, shoes, which differed from men's ones in greater elegance and embroidery. They were put on woolen stockings made by the women themselves. Women often made knitted stockings and socks in different colors (white with black, brown, gray, etc.).
Felt and morocco socks were mainly worn by older women, putting morocco footwear on them. Girls and young women wore beautifully embroidered, and sometimes decorated with braided, morocco footwear over stockings and socks.
Casual shoes Morocco shoes were also considered, no different from men's ones. In mountainous Balkaria, women wore rawhide boots in winter.
In Kabarda, and partly in Balkaria, women wore shoes with heels on wooden soles without backs and with an embroidered leather toe, which were house shoes.
Girls of princely origin in holidays they wore so-called high stilts, decorated with silver overlays and lined with velvet. It was difficult to move in them, but they emphasized their high position. Girls from other segments of the population also used such shoes during wedding celebrations. These types of shoes were made by specialists. Masters from the villages of Dokshokovo, Botashevo and others were famous.
At the end of the nineteenth century. women in wealthy families began to wear low-heeled shoes with one buckle, reminiscent of shoes in cut, as well as deep and shallow galoshes with a narrow toe. Later, Russian high-heeled boots with laces became widespread. Festive shoes were boots with long laces and factory shoes.
Kabardians and Balkars did not know sewing workshops, did not have tailors, shoemakers, etc., so women were engaged in making clothes. In every village there were craftswomen who were very famous. According to custom, they did not have the right to refuse or charge a fee. But they were always given something for their work.
Sewing skills beautiful clothes Good embroidery to some extent characterized a girl as a bride, so sewing and needlework played a significant role in the education of girls. The girls studied for a long time with famous craftswomen. For this they gave them various gifts and helped with the housework.
Constant attention to needlework and training in it from an early age contributed to the girls developing the necessary skills for making clothes and decorating them by the time they got married. Women did all the work by hand, so it took a lot of time. A rich bride, for example, prepared her wedding clothes for years with the help of her friends , neighbors, etc.
In general, Kabardian and Balkar women’s clothing, like men’s clothing, was distinguished by modesty and severity color range, the predominance of monochromatic materials. The decoration of clothes with braid, gold and silver embroidery was quite consistent with the general style of clothing, which combined the severity of shapes and colors with elegance, well emphasizing the woman’s figure.
The traditional national costume of Kabardian and Balkar women, like that of men, did not consist of a random set of individual items. Each part of the costume was strictly selected according to cut, decorations, especially color. It is quite clear that men's clothing was stricter and more modest than women's. In men's clothing of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Embroidery was used very rarely and only on hoods, leggings and morocco boots. At the same time, the predominant type was fastened embroidery (dyshcheide). Women's clothing was more picturesque. A special style was manifested in the forms and methods of decorating Kabardian clothing. The main emphasis was on the line of the pattern, usually light on a dark background. In the embroidery ornament and jewelry had a lot in common. He was characterized by a sense of the form of a thing, manifested in the skillful composition of the ornament and the highlighting of the main structural details.
WOMEN'S AND MEN'S CLOTHING AT THE BEGINNING OF THE XX century.
At the beginning of the 20th century. Both the women's and men's costumes of the Kabardian Balkars basically retained their cut and shape. It, as before, was sewn at the waist, tightly fitting the figure, and was modest, strict and graceful. But at the same time, significant changes occurred. Under the influence of developing market relations in both men's and women's clothing, many new types of factory or handicraft clothing have appeared: women's shawls, scarves, scarves, stockings, shoes, men's boots, etc.
The material from which clothing was made also changed. Factory fabrics were increasingly used to sew men's clothing, while women's clothing was mainly sewn only from purchased material. Along with velvet and silk, chintz and satin, women's clothing began to be made from paper, cashmere, and partly from cloth. The process of convergence of Kabardian and Balkar clothing with Russian and pan-European clothing intensified. This was evidenced by the increasingly widespread distribution of such types of clothing as boots and galoshes, skirts and blouses, scarves and coats, and the transformation of ceremonial embroidered caps and dresses into wedding and festive clothing.
The wider use of purchased materials in tailoring clothes, especially women's, began to disrupt the color scheme; clothes became more colorful. Instead of traditional braid, ready-made braids, braid and factory-produced lace began to be used to decorate clothes. While maintaining the basic traditional principles of women's clothing, compared to men's clothing, it underwent more significant changes, indicating the convergence of women's clothing with pan-European clothing.
Thus, the clothes and shoes of the Kabardians and Balkars in the second half of the 19th-20th centuries. have already undergone certain changes, but in general retained their traditional features.
AFTERVIEW…
National clothes expressed the taste of its creators, their aesthetic ideals. It is the embodiment of people's experience and represents valuable cultural heritage. It should not only be studied and preserved in museums, but also used to its best by artists and fashion designers - the creators of new modern clothing.
Content….
MEN'S CLOTHING page 1
Warm men's outerwear p.5
Men's hats p.7
Men's shoes p.8
WOMEN'S CLOTHINGpage 10
Warm outerwear for women p.13
Women's hats p.14
Women's shoes p.15
WOMEN'S AND MEN'S CLOTHING IN THE EARLY XX century.17
Bibliography….
G. Kh. Mambetov - TRADITIONAL CULTURE OF KABARDINS AND BALKARTERS
V. N. Kudashev - HISTORICAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE KABARDIN PEOPLE
M. Z. Soblirov – CULTURE OF THE PEOPLES OF KABARDA AND BALKARIA AT THE END OF THE 19TH – BEGINNING OF THE 20TH centuries.

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CLOTHING OF KABARDINS AND BALKARTERS Plant Olga Sergeevna Additional education teacher MKOU secondary school No. 25, Nalchik

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Kabardino-Balkaria is a multinational republic. More than 100 nationalities live on its territory, which is 12.5 thousand km2: Kabardians, Balkars, Russians, Ossetians, Ukrainians, Koreans, Tatars, Jews, etc. Population – 901,200 people. There are 165 settlements in the republic, including 8 cities: The capital is Nalchik; Prokhladny and Baksan are cities of republican subordination; Chegem, Maisky, Nartkala, Terek, Tyrnyauz - cities of regional subordination; 10 districts: Baksansky, Zolsky, Leskensky, Maysky, Prokhladnensky, Tersky, Urvansky, Chegemsky, Chereksky, Elbrussky. For centuries, our peoples lived on the territory of the republic in friendship and harmony. The history of our Kabardino-Balkaria is full of both bright pages associated with military and labor achievements, and dramatic moments testifying to the difficult and tragic trials they had to go through. To understand what is happening, you need to know the past, the history of your region, your people. We all, both adults and children, are shaped by the past and present of both our fatherland and all humanity. It is important for each person to establish his involvement in the clan, nation, humanity, to remember that he lives in a world where the past significantly acts, indirectly influencing the present.

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The men's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars was basically the same type. It was largely made from local materials: sheepskin, cattle leather, wool was processed into felt, from which hats, burkas, and homespun cloth were made. Kabardians and Balkars received silk, velvet, and cotton fabrics through developed trade relations. The main parts of men's clothing for Kabardians and Balkars were beshmets and specially shaped trousers.

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The full highlander costume included a Circassian coat, which was worn over a beshmet. The Circassian received its name from the Russians, who first saw it among the Circassian Circassians. It served to some extent as elegant clothing and was worn when going to public places (mosque, village gatherings, government), visiting, dancing, etc. Custom did not allow visiting these places wearing only a beshmet, “underdressed,” and such an appearance could be regarded as disrespect for society and existing etiquette. The Circassian coat was made from homespun cloth of the highest quality, usually gray, white and black.

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The warm outerwear of the Kabardians and Balkars was a fur coat, which was made from sheepskin, and the best ones were made from the skin of rams and even lambs. Such fur coats were called kurpei fur coats. The cut of the fur coat differed from the Circassian coat only in that it was cut without a chest neckline. It had a small stand-up collar, which, like the flaps and sleeves, turned out on the outside with a narrow fur strip made from the sheepskin of a young lamb. The fur coat, like the Circassian coat and beshmet, was fastened with 5-6 ribbon buttons and loops. She had a great smell.

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The outer clothing was also a burka. “Without her,” wrote B.E. Khizhnyakov, “it is unthinkable to imagine a male mountaineer.” The burka was worn at any time of the year, going to the field, to the market, to another village, etc. It replaced a waterproof raincoat during rain, protected from summer heat and cold wind, and served as a bed in the steppe and in the pasture. It sheltered both the rider and his horse from the rain, easily turned over backwards and protected the rider and the saddle. In good weather, it was rolled up and tied to the saddle. Burkas were made of black wool.

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The headdress of the Kabardians and Balkars basically corresponded to their clothing. In summer they wore a felt hat with a wide brim, and in winter and in the autumn-spring period they wore a sheepskin hat or papakha. Balkars also wore a hat in the summer.

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The footwear of Kabardians and Balkars was distinguished by significant diversity. It can be divided into two parts: boots and the shoes themselves. Leggings were made from cloth, felt and morocco without socks, with straps, and each type had its own name, emphasizing what material they were made of (morocco, felt, cloth). The most common were black boots, but dark gray and dark brown ones were also found. Their edges were trimmed with braid or leather. The leather covering was done in such a way that the felt would not rub when walking and riding. Such lining made the pagolenki not only durable, but also decorated them. Along with leggings, leggings have become widespread. These are the same pagolenki, made of the same materials, but, unlike them, they had sewn socks. They were worn mainly by the wealthy segments of the population. The boots and leggings had to fit tightly around the legs. They were worn pulled over the legs and tucked into the pants, and also tied below the knees with special straps. All adult men wore them in winter, spring, autumn, and Balkars in the mountains - all year round. In summer they wore cloth boots. Felt and morocco socks were a widespread type of footwear among older people.

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Women's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars had much in common with men's clothing, which indicates the unity of their fundamental principles. There were, of course, significant differences. Women's clothing was elegant, comfortable, and colorful, unlike men's. The fact is that men did not wear red clothes at all. The ideal of female beauty in the Caucasus was considered to be a thin waist and a flat chest. From early childhood, a correct, slender figure was developed. For this purpose, all kinds of devices and means were used. This took into account physiological characteristics and physical capabilities of each girl, without in any way affecting her health. In particular, before her marriage, the girl did not have the right to sleep in a soft bed, and food was limited. Those foods that contributed to obesity were actually excluded from her diet. By the way, men also adhered to this.

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In the upbringing of girls, unlike boys, the principle of social belonging was observed. As I. Blaramberg wrote in his work “Caucasian Manuscript”: “In order to preserve a girl’s figure, in princely and noble families from the age of 10 they put a corset on her bust, which remains on her until her wedding night, when her chosen one rips it open with a dagger . The corset is made of leather or morocco, it is equipped with two wooden planks on the chest, which, by putting pressure on the mammary glands, prevent them from developing; It is believed that this part of the body is an attribute of motherhood, and it is shameful for a young girl to be allowed to see it. The corset also compresses very tightly the entire waist from the collarbones to the waist thanks to the rope that passes through the holes in the corset (sometimes silver hooks are used for this purpose); girls wear this corset even at night and take it off only when it is worn out, and then only to immediately replace it with a new one, just as tight. Thus, it turns out that the girl on her wedding day has the same bust as she had at the age of ten; Otherwise, a beautiful figure is preserved thanks to a modest life and frequent outdoor exercise, so that even peasant girls maintain a slender figure, although they do not wear leather corsets at all.” Blaramberg also noted that “girls had the right to use unique cosmetics. In particular, they could paint their nails with dark red paint, which the Circassians extracted from the flower.” This “freedom” in caring for your appearance, which Caucasian girls had in the distant past, did not exist among many nations, including Europe. It should be borne in mind that this took place when world civilization had not reached such heights in cosmetics. The same Blaramberg noted that “the first type of clothing is lighter and more beautiful, since it outlines the slender and flexible figure and seductive forms that girls are so proud of.”

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An important part of women's clothing was a caftan, which was worn under a dress over a shirt. It was worn from the age of 10-12 until old age. The caftan was made short and cinched tightly around the figure. Its cut coincided with the beshmet, the clasp was in the front and went from the neck to the waist, sometimes there was a stand-up collar. The narrow sleeve ended at the wrist. For decoration, several pairs of silver clasps were sewn onto the chest, sometimes gilded, decorated with turquoise or colored glass, with an ornament applied by engraving, niello or filigree. It was sewn from elegant dense fabrics - heavy silk, velvet, cloth, satin. From under the dress the chest of the caftan with clasps was visible. But the evolution of the caftan took place: gradually what remained of it was a bib with clasps and a stand-up collar. It was also worn under a dress.

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Old women wore shirts made of cotton fabric in white or somewhat dark colors, while young women sewed them from dark red, blue, brown, etc. The shirts of older women did not have decorations or embroidery.

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The ceremonial dress was usually made of velvet or heavy silk, and the pendant was made from the same material. There was another version of the dress: a frill made of the same fabric was sewn to the short, above the elbow, narrow sleeve, covering the arm almost to the hand. This dress was worn by young girls and women. Elderly women wore a dress with long, wide sleeves reaching to the wrist.

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Sleeve pendants and long sleeves were typical for the clothing of noble women and had a certain social meaning: emphasizing their ability not to work.

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The belt played a very important role in the clothing of Kabardian and Balkar women. It was worn over the dress, cinching the waist. For women of the older generation, the belt was simply made of cloth, wool, or simply a wide ribbon, but always with a metal buckle. Middle-aged women wore belts that consisted half of velvet or wide braided stripes, and half of silver, with buckles of various types.

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Girls wore belts made of silver plates, decorated with gilding, engraving, and filigree. They were made by both local and foreign (Dagestan) craftsmen. The silver belt was of great value and, together with the chest clasps, was passed down from generation to generation. Many belts that have survived to this day date back 100-150 years. In addition to the belt, women's jewelry included earrings, bracelets, rings, and watches on a long chain.

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The traditional national costume of Kabardian and Balkar women, like that of men, is not a random collection of individual things. Each part of the costume was strictly selected in terms of cut, decoration and especially color. It is quite clear that men's clothing was stricter and more modest than women's. Women's clothing is more picturesque. The main emphasis was on the line of the pattern, usually light on a dark background. The ornament of embroidery and jewelry has a lot in common; it is characterized by a sense of the shape of the thing.

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Purpose of the study:

Study and expand knowledge about the national clothes of Kabardians.

Project objectives:

Introduce Kabardians to women's clothing;

To teach an understanding that clothing expresses the special qualities of the highlanders - modesty, neatness, pride, the desire to emphasize the beauty of the figure;
- cultivate a deep interest in the history of their people,

respect for its culture and traditions;

Reveal the awareness of modern children

on the research topic.

Introduction.

While the man lived in the cave, he thought little about the beauty of his “clothes.” To escape the cold, the man, with considerable skill, put into action all the reserves he had at hand. Animal skins, tree bark, and foliage were used. This practical need to cover one's body in order to keep it warm and protect it from scrapes and bruises was the initial impetus for the creation of the suit.Gradually, with the development of civilization, other requirements begin to be placed on clothing. Clothing not only protects a person from various hardships in life, but also serves as decoration.

Kabardians were richer than other peoples, they were better dressed. A noble young lady of this nationality could be recognized by her thin waist, cinched in a corset, high cap, arm pendants, red dress, stilts and labor-intensive and very expensive embroidery - attached.

The Caucasus is one of the regions of the world where folk costume is distinguished by exceptional diversity, color and decoration.An integral component of the culture of any nation is the national costume. You can study the history of a people using national costume.

Main part.

Kabardian women's clothing had much in common with men's, which indicates the unity of their fundamental principles. There were, of course, significant differences. The ideal of female beauty in the Caucasus was considered to be a thin waist and a flat chest. To achieve such a figure, Kabardian girls from the age of 10-12 wore morocco corsets with wooden slats, worn over the naked body and tightly encircling the girl’s entire bust.

This ensured the girl’s slim and slender figure.Over the corset they put on an undershirt, which had the same cut as the men's shirt. But it was longer and went down below the knees. Her sleeves were also straight and wide, long, sometimes covering her hands. The women's shirt also had a straight cut and a small stand-up collar fastened with a button. Shirts were made from cotton or silk fabric of various, sometimes bright, colors. Great care was taken in the choice of material for a dressy shirt, as the collar, front slit and sleeves peeked out from the dress. Connected with this was the custom of Kabardian women to decorate these parts of the shirt with embroidery and beautiful narrow braids.Old women wore shirts made of cotton fabric in white or slightly darker colors, while young women sewed them from dark red, blue, brown, etc.

The shirts of older women did not have decorations or embroidery.At the end of the nineteenth century. – beginning XX century a skirt appeared. At the same time, the shirt was no longer made of silk, it was cotton, and the skirt was silk. A dress must be worn over the shirt. Only an old woman at home could walk without a dress. The dress was identical in cut to the Circassian - swinging to the hem, without a collar, with an open chest and a fastener at the waist. Otherwise, only the sleeves were sewn. At the beginning, the sleeve was cut almost to the very top, went down well below the hand and ended in a rounded blade. Later, the sleeve was made narrow, above the elbow, and separately - a sleeve pendant-blade, which was suspended above the elbow.The ceremonial dress was usually made of velvet or heavy silk, and the pendant was made from the same material. There was another version of the dress: a frill made of the same fabric was sewn to the short, above the elbow, narrow sleeve, covering the arm almost to the hand. This dress was worn by young girls and women. Elderly women wore a dress with long, wide sleeves reaching to the wrist.Sleeve pendants and long sleeves were typical for the clothing of noble women and had a certain social meaning: emphasizing their ability not to work.An important part of women's clothing was a caftan, which was worn under a dress over a shirt. It was worn from the age of 10-12 until old age. The caftan was made short and cinched tightly around the figure. Its cut coincided with the beshmet, the clasp was in the front and went from the neck to the waist, sometimes there was a stand-up collar. The narrow sleeve ended at the wrist. For decoration, several pairs of silver clasps were sewn onto the chest, sometimes gilded, decorated with turquoise or colored glass, with an ornament applied by engraving, niello or filigree. It was sewn from elegant dense fabrics - heavy silk, velvet, cloth, satin. From under the dress the chest of the caftan with clasps was visible. But the evolution of the caftan took place. Gradually, what remained of the caftan was a bib with clasps and a stand-up collar. It was also worn under a dress. The belt played a very important role in the clothing of Kabardian women. It was worn over the dress, cinching the waist. For women of the older generation, the belt was simply made of cloth, wool, or simply a wide ribbon, but always with a metal buckle. Middle-aged women wore belts consisting half of velvet or wide braided stripes, and half of silver, with buckles of various types. Girls wore belts made of silver plates, decorated with gilding, engraving, and filigree. They were made by both local and foreign (Dagestan) craftsmen. The silver belt was of great value and, together with the chest clasps, was passed down from generation to generation. Many belts that have survived to this day date back 100-150 years. In addition to the belt, women's jewelry included earrings, bracelets, rings,

watch on a long chain.

Warm women's outerwear.

According to mountain custom, girls and young women did not wear any warm clothing during the cold season, but could only put on a second quilted dress or throw a scarf over their shoulders. Older married women could wear loose clothing, quilted with a thin layer of wool or cotton wool. Rich Kabardians sometimes wore velvet fur coats trimmed with a strip of fur without fasteners, worn not so much for warmth as for beauty. They were lined with squirrel fur, and sometimes they were simply hemmed with lining. Old women, especially in mountainous regions, also wore sheepskin fur coats. The restrictions adopted by the mountaineers on the wearing of warm clothes by girls and young women had a detrimental effect on their health, but were supported by the Muslim clergy, since this prevented the appearance of women outside the home.

Women's hats.
The most important part of clothing was hats, in which age differences and changes in the marital status of Kabardian women are most clearly visible.Girls wore a headscarf or walked with their heads uncovered until marriage. The Muslim clergy fought against such a custom, which existed since ancient times, and at the beginning of the twentieth century. achieved the adoption by rural communities of a special verdict prohibiting all girls from 10-12 years of age from walking without a headdress or headscarf. Thus, in the village of Tyzhevo of the 1st section of the Nalchik district, the general meeting on April 6, 1915, under pressure from the Muslim clergy, adopted a verdict that said: “Girls of our village from the age of 10 should not use any kind of combs in their headdresses.” and not show your hair, both in your village and outside it. For violation of this, the parents of such girls should be subject to a fine in the income of our public sums of 5 rubles. for each violation."When the period of “maturing” began and the girl “started going to dances,” she wore a high cap of various types. Some of them had a cylindrical shape, others had a cone-shaped or rounded shape, others had a cylinder combined with a cone and resembled a man’s helmet, etc. The lower part of the cap was covered with a wide braid of gold and silver threads. The top was covered with cloth or velvet and decorated with radiating narrow braids. At the very top there was a decoration in the form of a round or oval cone - made of silver or silver threads. Often the cone was replaced with various images: a bird sitting on a ball, a crescent moon, a blossoming flower, etc. Many of them were silver, decorated with niello, gilding, and filigree.

The front part of the caps that have come down to us had decorations in the form of a fringe, reinforced along the upper edge of the braid.In the second half of the nineteenth century. Kabardinkas began to wear, along with high, and low hats. They had the shape of a low cylinder or a truncated cone. Unlike tall ones, they were covered with cloth, velvet and decorated with gold and silver embroidery located along the band and on the bottom. A long golden brush descended from the top. The Kabardians called such a cap Crimean, Tatar or Ossetian, which indicated that it was borrowed from neighboring peoples.Low hats, known as “crooked caps,” were not worn by Kabardian brides during the wedding ceremony, deeming them unsuitable for this occasion. They were worn mainly by girls.

Women (like brides) wore a cap with a white silk scarf with fringe until their first child.After the birth of the first child, the cap was replaced with a small dark-colored bandage. In this case, the square bandage was folded into a triangle and the head was tied so that its two ends were passed from behind under the braids, one knot was made, then, wrapping them around the head, they were tied again at the crown of the head, and the ends were hidden. The third end, falling onto the back, covered the hair. The change from a girl's headdress to a woman's one, timed not for a wedding, but for the birth of the first child, indicates the antiquity of this tradition. A woman, not only legally, but also actually moved into the category of women-mothers, did not have the right to show her hair. Women from wealthy families tied their heads with a special thin scarf, silk, with patterns on the edges. When leaving the house, the head was covered over the bandage with a large home-made woolen scarf. Such scarves were worn mainly by older women. Large thin woolen or silk scarves in black, cream, burgundy and other colors with fringe and flowers were also highly valued. Young women wore white silk scarves with fringes over the headband and girls wore over the caps, and two types of black silk scarves - with and without fringe, with different patterns.Gradually, the hat, like the ceremonial dress, began to turn into a festive wedding headdress. At the beginning of the twentieth century. girls from wealthy families began to wear gauze scarves, lace scarves, and scarves made in Vologda.

Women's shoes

Kabardian women's shoes were mostly homemade and in many ways similar to men's. These were felt and morocco socks, boots, shoes, which differed from men's in greater elegance and embroidery. They were worn over woolen stockings made by the women themselves. Women often made knitted stockings and socks multi-colored (white with black, brown, gray, etc.).Felt and morocco socks were mainly worn by older women, putting morocco shoes on them. Girls and young women wore beautifully embroidered and sometimes decorated with braided morocco boots over stockings and socks.Morocco shoes, no different from men's ones, were also considered everyday footwear.In Kabarda, women wore shoes with heels on wooden soles without backs and with an embroidered leather toe, which were house shoes.On holidays, girls of princely origin wore so-called high stilts, decorated with silver plates and lined with velvet. It was difficult to move in them, but they emphasized their high position. Girls from other segments of the population also used such shoes during wedding celebrations. These types of shoes were made by specialists. Masters from the villages of Dokshokovo, Botashevo and others were famous.At the end of the nineteenth century. women in wealthy families began to wear low-heeled shoes with one buckle, reminiscent of shoes in cut, as well as deep and shallow galoshes with a narrow toe. Later, Russian boots became widespread high heels with lacing. Festive shoes were boots with long lacing and factory shoes.Kabardians did not know sewing workshops, did not have tailors, shoemakers, etc., so women were engaged in making clothes. In every village there were craftswomen who were very famous. According to custom, they had no right to refuse or charge a fee. But they were always given something for their work.The ability to sew beautiful clothes and good embroidery to some extent characterized a girl as a bride, therefore sewing and needlework played a significant role in the upbringing of girls. The girls studied with famous craftswomen for a long time. For this they gave them various gifts and helped them with the housework.Constant attention to needlework and learning it from an early age contributed to the girls developing the necessary skills in making clothes and decorating them by the time they got married.

Women did all the work manually, so it took a lot of time. A rich bride, for example, spent years preparing her wedding clothes with the help of her friends, neighbors, etc.In general, Kabardian women’s clothing, like men’s, was distinguished by modesty, strict color scheme, and the predominance of plain materials. The decoration of clothes with braid, gold and silver embroidery was quite consistent with the general style of clothing, which combined the severity of shapes and colors with elegance that well emphasizes a woman’s figure.The traditional national costume of Kabardian and Balkar women, like that of men, did not consist of a random set of individual items. Each part of the costume was strictly selected in terms of cut, decoration and especially color. It is quite clear that men's clothing was stricter and more modest than women's. Women's clothing was more picturesque. The main emphasis was on the line of the pattern, usually light on a dark background. The designs of embroidery and jewelry had much in common. He was characterized by a sense of the form of a thing.National clothing expressed the taste of its creators and their aesthetic ideals. It is the embodiment of people's experience and represents a valuable cultural heritage. It should not only be studied and preserved in museums, but also used to its best by artists and fashion designers - the creators of new modern clothing.

Conclusion.
The Caucasus is one of the regions of the world where folk costume is distinguished by exceptional diversity, color and decoration. You can study the history of a people using national costume.Kabarda was divided into classes, and clothing had class differences. The traditional national costume was adapted to their living conditions.All details have been perfected over the years.

Educational project “General and specific in the national costumes of Kabardians, Balkars and Terek Cossacks» Authors: Gunchenko Svetlana, Solomatina Kristina Head: Teslya Galina Vasilievna Municipal educational institution additional education children "Children's art school local administration of the city district of Prokhladny KBR"

The most numerous peoples in our republic, Kabardino-Balkaria, are: Kabardians (57.2%) Russians (22.5%) Balkars (12.7%).

Men's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars is the clothing of a warrior, a rider, adapted to the conditions of their life. The men's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars, between which there were no significant differences, was characterized by a dark, restrained color scheme. The clothing fully corresponded to the highlanders’ idea of ​​the beauty of the male figure, emphasizing the broad shoulders and thin waist, its slimness and fit, dexterity and strength.

The main parts of men's clothing were beshmet and trousers. Beshmet is a garment in the form of a caftan with a stand-up collar, usually reaching to the knees. The pants consisted of straight legs, slightly tapered at the bottom, with a diamond-shaped wedge sewn between them. Beshmet

The full costume of the Kabardians and Balkars included a Circassian coat, which was worn over a beshmet. It served to some extent as elegant clothing and was worn when going to public places. The Circassian coat was made from homespun cloth of the highest quality, usually gray, white and black. The Circassian coat fitted the figure tightly to the waist and widened towards the bottom; instead of a collar, it had a cutout on the chest, from which a beshmet peeked out. Cherkessk

Gazyrnitsa were sewn onto the Circassian coat on both sides of the chest. Gas tins are pockets with small compartments into which round wooden or bone tubes with firearm charges prepared in them were placed. The poor peasants had them simple, wooden with white bone tips, the rich ones - made of bone, with blackened silver or even gold caps. Subsequently, the gas cylinders lost their purpose and were preserved as decoration. Gazyrnitsy

The headdress of the Kabardians and Balkars basically corresponded to their clothing. In summer they wore a felt hat with a wide brim, and in winter and in the autumn-spring period they wore a sheepskin hat and a hat. The Balkars wore a hat and a summer hat. The most common color of a hat was black, but there were also white and gray ones. Papakha

The headdress was complemented by a bashlyk. This is a cloth pointed hood, worn over some kind of headdress in bad weather. The bashlyk has long bladed ends for wrapping around the neck; it was made of white, black or brown homespun cloth. The edges of the bashlyk were trimmed with a ribbon made of simple, and sometimes silver or gold threads. Hood

The outerwear was a burka - a sleeveless felt cloak. The burka replaced a waterproof raincoat during rain, protected from summer heat and cold wind, and served as a bed in the steppe and in the pasture. Burkas were made of black wool. They had a shaggy surface, narrow shoulders and a wide bottom. The collar of the burqa had a special fastener. Rich and noble people sometimes wore white burkas. Burka

The men's costume of the Terek Cossacks consisted of military uniform and casual wear. The uniform included: a shirt, trousers, a beshmet, a Circassian coat, a bashlyk, a winter cloak, a hat, and boots. The cut of the Circassian coat was entirely taken from neighboring peoples - Kabardians and Balkars. The Circassian coat of the Terek Cossacks was sewn from black factory cloth. The sleeve of the Circassian coat had a bright lining - of blue color, since its lapel was a kind of costume decoration. A beshmet was visible from the deep neckline of the Circassian coat. Circassian women sewed a gas nitty-gritty on their chests.

A thin waist and flat chest were considered the ideal of female beauty. For this purpose, mountain women from the age of 10-12 wore morocco corsets with wooden slats, worn over their naked bodies. An undershirt was worn over the corset. A dress must be worn over the shirt. The dress was identical in cut to the Circassian coat - swinging to the floor, without a collar, with an open chest and a fastener at the waist.

Otherwise, only the sleeves of the dress were sewn. At first, the sleeve was cut almost to the very top, went down well below the hand and ended in a rounded blade. Later, the sleeve was made narrow, above the elbow, and separately - a sleeve pendant-blade, which was suspended above the elbow. The blades were embroidered with gold and silver. Sketches of pendants - blades

The dress was decorated with ornamental embroidery along the sides, hem, and bottom of the sleeves. All elements of the ornament had a certain semantic meaning and were associated with religious rituals. Ornaments and symbols of animals: Ornaments and symbols of crosses: Ornaments and symbols of heavenly shrines, natural phenomena and deities: Ornaments and symbols of birds:

An important part of women's clothing was a caftan, which was worn under a dress over a shirt. The caftan was made short and cinched tightly around the figure. Its cut coincided with the beshmet, the clasp was in the front and went from the neck to the waist, sometimes there was a stand-up collar. For decoration, several pairs of silver clasps, sometimes gilded, were sewn onto the chest. From under the dress the chest of the caftan with clasps was visible. Gradually, what remained of the caftan was a bib with clasps and a stand-up collar. It was also worn under a dress. The belt played an important role. It was worn over the dress, cinching the waist.

Girls wore tall hats of various types - cylindrical, cone-shaped, rounded, sometimes the cylinder was combined with a cone. The lower part of the cap was covered with a wide braid of gold and silver threads. The top was covered with cloth or velvet and decorated with narrow braid. At the very top there was a decoration in the form of a round or oval cone - made of silver or silver threads. Often the bump was replaced with various images: a bird, a crescent, a flower.

In the 18th and first half of the 19th centuries, the clothes of Terek Cossack women were similar to the clothes of Kabardian and Balkar women. The basis of the costume was a shirt with sleeves that flared downward. A swing dress was worn over the shirt. They sewed a dress with a cut-off fitted bodice. A wide gathered skirt was sewn to the bodice. The dress was belted with a velvet belt with gold or pearl embroidery or a silver pattern. The outerwear of Cossack women was not decorated with embroidery.

The brightness, cheerfulness, and independence of the Cossack woman’s character are reflected in her outfits. Since the second half of the 19th century, such a type of clothing as a “couple” (skirt - jacket) has spread. The jacket was called a jacket, blouse, cuirass. Cuirass - a tight-fitting jacket with a small peplum to the hips, narrow long sleeves, gathered at the shoulder, with a stand-up collar, fastened at the front with many small buttons. Cossack women wore lace scarves - “faishonki”

Blouses and sweaters were sewn loose-fitting, without a waist, half a quarter below the waist, with a fastener at the back or side, with a stand-up collar and long or elbow-length sleeves gathered at the shoulder. Blouses were trimmed with fancy buttons, braid, homemade lace, garus, and beads. Shlychka - headdress - has come into fashion married woman in the form of a small round cap worn over the top of the hair. The Cossack costume was complemented by black or red patent leather high-heeled boots.

General and specific in the national costumes of Kabardians, Balkars and Terek Cossacks. The men's costume of the highlanders and Terek Cossacks includes the same items of clothing. These are a beshmet, trousers, a Circassian coat, a bashlyk, a burka, a hat, boots or leggings.

The women's costume of Kabardian, Balkar and Terek Cossack women in the 18th century had common features. This is a dress similar in cut to a Circassian dress - swinging to the hem, without a collar, with an open chest and a fastener at the waist. Mountain women had pendants - blades - sewn to their sleeves, and the dress was decorated with embroidery along the sides, hem, and bottom of the sleeves. Terek Cossack women did not decorate their outerwear with embroidery.

In the 19th century, the costume of Terek Cossack women acquired the features of a city costume; the “couples” of Cossack women were not at all similar to the national costumes of mountain women. Neither Kabardians nor Balkars liked bright colors or colorful clothes. A woman suit Cossacks were distinguished by greater diversity and brighter color combinations.

Conclusions: The clothing of Kabardians and Balkars was multifunctional, expressed the status of a person, and emphasized the beauty of the figure, which ensured its universal recognition in the Caucasus. The men's costume of Kabardians and Balkars has practically no differences. The men's costume of the highlanders and Terek Cossacks includes the same items of clothing, which indicates the mutual influence and interpenetration of cultures.

Women's dress
Kabardian, Balkar and Terek Cossack women in the 18th century - this is a swing dress, similar in cut to the Circassian one, which also indicates the kinship of the cultures of neighboring peoples. In the 19th century, the costume of Terek Cossack women acquired the features of a city costume and began to differ significantly from the costume of mountain women.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Kabardian and Balkar women began wearing items of clothing borrowed from Cossack women.

Kabardians and Balkars did not like bright colors or colorful clothes. The Cossack women's costume was distinguished by its variegated and bright color combinations. Common features in national costumes indicate the historical and spiritual connection of the peoples inhabiting our republic. The hypothesis we expressed at the beginning of the work about the unity of the fundamental principles of the costumes of the Kabardians, Balkars and Terek Cossacks turned out to be correct. The text of the work is posted without images and formulas. Full version work is available in the "Work Files" tab in PDF format

Introduction

Feature modern life peoples of Kabardino-Balkaria on the appearance of the national costume, what is the role of the costume in modern society and influence on the further development of national consciousness and identity.

Study the available sources about Kabardian and Balkar national costumes;

Identify the features of Kabardian and Balkar national costumes;

Study the features and symbolism of traditional folk costume.

Degree of knowledge this issue quite low. One of the few who touched upon this topic was Zh.S. Thazeplova in her work “ National culture Kabardians and Balkars in the context of globalization. Transformation of value orientations" This topic here is not the main one and is considered only partially. Another author who paid attention to this topic is Z.V. Daudet, in his historical essay “Medieval costume of the peoples of the North Caucasus.”

Structure of the work: The study consists of an introduction, three chapters, a conclusion, and a list of references.

Chapter 1. National Costume peoples of the Caucasus as a reflection of the socio-economic and political structure of society

The centuries-old cultural development of the North Caucasus distinguishes it from other regions by its great diversity. At the same time, a common appearance of folk costume for all the peoples of the North Caucasus was formed, which is a clear indicator of the common historical path, cultural and economic ties of the main stages of ethnic development.

Costume means clothing in general or a distinctive style of clothing that reflects a person's social, national, regional affiliation. The national costume reflects the individuality of the people, the nation and characterizes its culture, and is a source of national pride. We can say that a costume is a means by which one can get to know a particular people, their way of life, way of life, and culture.

The national costume is not only an element of culture, but it can also carry important information about the historical development of the people and other areas of people's lives. The costume is especially important for obtaining information about that period of history when there was no written language and information about this period has not reached our days.

Studying a suit (cut, color, use of various fabrics and materials, accessories, precious metals) gives us information about the natural and climatic conditions, economic and social structure, religious structure, political organization of society, as well as the artistic and aesthetic level of people.

The peoples of Kabardino-Balkaria are representatives of the North Caucasus - one of the most multinational regions of our country. The national costumes of the Kabardians and Balkars have evolved over centuries, have commonality with the costumes of other peoples of the North Caucasus, and also have features characteristic of them. This was due to natural and climatic features, the social structure of society, and economic ties.

The first historical mentions of the national costume of the Kabardians and Balkars (drawings and engravings of Russian travelers) date back to the beginning of the 18th century. By this time, the costume was the result of a long evolution associated with the internal self-development of our peoples, as well as various borrowings from other peoples.

The main economic occupations of Kabardians and Balkars in this era were cattle breeding and agriculture. Hunting also played an important role. As a result, raw materials appeared for homemade fabrics, mainly woolen: felted burkas, wove canvas, made leather for shoes.

Chapter 2. Historical evolution of the women's national costume of Kabardians and Balkars

Historical evolution of the women's national costume of Kabardians and Balkars. Women's costumes of representatives of the wealthy class included luxury items (velvet, silk, satin, gems, morocco). This suggests that by this time in the historical development of our peoples, broad trade ties had appeared with other regions and countries (Crimea, Turkey, Persia, etc.)

Women's clothing of Kabardians and Balkars reflected the existing ideals of the female figure of that time (thin waist, flat chest). To achieve this effect, girls wore morocco corsets with wooden slats and laces that tightly covered the body. An undershirt made of cotton or silk was worn over the corset bright colors, like men's. With a collar with buttons. Older women had shirts made of white or dark fabric, without decorations. A floor-length, collarless, collarless dress with an open chest and a clasp at the waist was worn over the shirt. The ceremonial dress was made of silk or velvet. The sleeves of the dress ended in a rounded blade, covering the hand (for older people, the sleeve was wide up to the hand), pendants could be sewn on (this had a social meaning - a woman in such a dress had the opportunity not to work). It was characterized by a stylized floral pattern with curls, leaves and flowers. An important part of women's clothing was a caftan made of silk, velvet, and satin, which was worn under a dress over a shirt. For decoration, several pairs of silver or gilded ornaments, decorated with turquoise or colored glass, were sewn onto the chest, but gradually what remained of the caftan was a bib with clasps.

An important role was played in a woman's costume by a belt, worn over the dress and tightening the waist. Girls wore silver belts made by Dagestan craftsmen, and women's belts were made of cloth or wool with a metal buckle. Silver belts

were considered of great value and were passed on from generation to generation (there are belts that are 150 years old).

Balkar and Kabardian women did not have much outerwear; this was supported by the clergy so that the woman would not appear outside the house. Rich women sometimes wore velvet coats with elements of sheepskin, squirrel fur, and wool.

Shoes were also present in women's wardrobes. Beautifully embroidered morocco shoes and shoes were worn over stockings and socks. On holidays, they wore tall stilts trimmed with velvet and decorated with silver overlays. At the beginning of the twentieth century, high-heeled shoes appeared thanks to increasingly expanding ties with Russia.

The most important part of women's clothing was the headdress, in which age differences and changes in marital status are most clearly visible. Since the 20th century, the Muslim clergy has ensured that girls from the age of 12 wear a headdress. When the period of “maturation” began, girls wore hats of different types, decorated with silver or gold thread. In the second half of the 19th century, a new element appeared in the caps - a long golden tassel, borrowed from neighboring peoples (Ossetians, Crimean Tatars). After the birth of the first child, the cap was replaced by a scarf or headband (the woman had no right to show her hair). Gradually, the cap and ceremonial dress turned into festive wedding dresses. Since the beginning of the 20th century, girls from wealthy families began to wear gauze scarves, lace scarves, and Vologda scarves. All this speaks of the expansion of trade, economic and cultural ties between the peoples of the North Caucasus and other peoples of Russia.

Chapter 3. Historical evolution of the men's national costume of Kabardians and Balkars

The main details of men's clothing for Kabardians and Balkars were a beshmet and specially shaped trousers. A short caftan - beshmet, worn over a shirt, widened below the waist. Emphasizing the slim figure, it was buttoned to the waist. They sewed it from homespun cloth, while the more prosperous people sewed it from silk and satin. The ceremonial version included a belt with a metal set. Pants were also made from thick fabric or homespun cloth, tucked into leggings. They were comfortable for fast walking, running, and horse riding. It should be noted that men's clothing fully corresponded to the living conditions of a warrior, hunter, and shepherd. Everything in it was strictly selected, did not restrict movement, allowed you to climb rocks and walk silently.

A Circassian coat was worn over the beshmet, belted with a belt, which was removed at night or on days of mourning. Warm men's outerwear - sheepskin coat and burka. It is impossible to imagine a highlander without a burqa; it could be worn at any time of the year; made from black wool, they were worn when going to the field, to the market, to another village.

The headdress of the Kabardians and Balkars corresponded to their clothing. In summer they wore a felt hat with a wide brim, in winter and in the autumn-winter period they wore a sheepskin hat and a hat. The headdress was complemented by a cap made of white or black homespun cloth; it could be decorated with braid, gold embroidery, tassels made of silver and gold threads. Sometimes the bashlyks were real works of art: they could be presented as a gift by the bride’s relatives. An important application to men's suit There was a mandatory attribute - a weapon. It had deep meaning, was associated with the image of a highlander who had the right to bear arms and was a potential warrior.

In general, the clothing of the Balkars and Kabardians not only met the requirements of living conditions, but was also a decoration, as well as a reflection of good taste, grace, traditions and principles (rigor, restraint, elegance, courage).

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be noted that the national costume, its study, preservation, and propaganda are of great importance for the preservation of cultural and historical heritage, ethnic identity, patriotic education the younger generation. Ethnographic museums are called upon to make a great contribution to this matter. In the capital of our Motherland, Moscow, there is the State Museum of Ethnography of the Peoples of the USSR. In Nalchik, the capital of our republic, there is also an ethnographic museum, where the national costumes of the Kabardians and Balkars are presented, and we can plunge into the atmosphere of a historical and ethnographic excursion from a hundred years ago. And the more often we do this, the easier it will be for us in the era of unification and globalization not to forget who we are and how we should live and develop further, what our subsequent generations should know about their history, about their national essence.

I would like to note that in our time the national costume is experiencing a revival, which is associated with the growing interest of people in national history. It has become very fashionable and prestigious for the bride to wear a national dress on the day when the groom picks her up from her parents’ house. Moreover, such dresses are often sewn individually by very professional fashion designers. They are extremely beautiful and are real masterpieces. And the bride looks irresistible in them.

I think this is very important for us to know and remember our roots, our historical development and national identity.

It is also very pleasing that national dances are very popular, during which the dancers wear various options men's and women's suits. It’s especially nice when little children dance in such costumes. I think that, in addition to the aesthetic impact, this has great educational significance and promotes a careful attitude towards the national costume as part of our history and identity.

Very often in our city (especially on days national holidays) you can see riders in burkas and hats. This is very spectacular and unusual and personally makes me very proud of my homeland and nation, as well as confidence in our future.

List of used literature

1. Abaev, M.K. Balkaria, historical sketch. 1992

2. Daudet, Z.V. Medieval costume of the peoples of the North Caucasus, historical essay. 2001

3. Mambetova, G.Kh. Traditional culture of Kabardians and Balkars, educational and methodological manual. 2008

4. Thazeplova, Zh.S. National culture of Kabardians and Balkars in the context of globalization. Transformation of value orientations, abstract. 2010