Fur clothing causes a lot of controversy between luxury lovers and animal rights activists. But it cannot be denied that women look much more spectacular and elegant in fur coats made of "Mexican jersey" or "Shanghai leopard" than in shapeless down jackets. A compromise solution for many is the rejection of natural fur in favor of artificial. We will not delve into the ethical side of the issue, but move on to the practical: how to clean the fur if it is dirty, has lost its shine or has acquired yellowness.

First, a few words about the features and properties of the material itself, which will make it possible to determine the choice of methods and means suitable for cleaning fur at home.

Natural fur is the hair of animals, naturally reinforced on the leather tissue (flesh). The quality of the fur is determined by the ratio and number of hairs of different types (guides, guard, down) and the technique of dressing the skins. Several conclusions can be drawn from this:

1. Fur products cannot be washed.
2. It is better to take high-quality expensive clothes to a professional dry-cleaner.
3. To clean the fur at home is appropriate only in cases of minor dirt, individual stains or to refresh the appearance.

How to clean natural fur

Natural fur of different animals requires an individual approach to cleaning, since it has large differences in the length and density of hairs. How much it is necessary to clean the fur can be determined with a hair dryer. Direct a stream of cool air onto the pile and observe how the villi behave. If they fly away easily, shine, play, then nothing needs to be done. When dirt and dust settles on the hairs, they become greasy and stick together, lose their shine, so they will not swell. In this case, you will have to do the cleaning.

Arctic fox

Natural arctic fox has two types of color: white and blue; when sewing fur products, it is often dyed in other colors. The fur of the Arctic fox is long-haired (up to 8 cm), with a very dense density, in which there is practically no inclination of the hairs.

Arctic fox is often used to decorate winter coats, jackets or sheepskin coats in the form of separate parts: collars, hoods, cuffs

You can clean the fox fur at home using dry or wet methods.

Dry cleaning

For dry cleaning, you need powder adsorbents that absorb dirt and grease well:

• semolina;
• potato (or corn) starch;
• wheat flour;
• finely ground cereal bran.

For additional whitening, it is advised to use tooth powder or crushed chalk

To clean the fur effectively, it is recommended to first heat dry adsorbents in a clean pan, avoiding scorching. Then they are evenly scattered over the entire surface of the laid out fur product and lightly rubbed into the pile, gently massaging with your hands. After cooling, the powder is removed by shaking the fur, vacuuming it at low power and combing it with a brush.

Fur with long fibers is rubbed and combed out in the direction of the pile, and with short (sheared) - against.

Wet cleaning

The most important thing when using wet cleaning methods is to prevent the flesh from getting wet and to find out the safety of these methods in advance by conducting tests on inconspicuous areas of the product.

It is advised to clean fur with wet methods only in places that are most dirty and rubbed off from contact with skin, cosmetics, etc.

Among the products recommended for cleaning fur, soap solutions... For their preparation, they take shampoos for hair or shampoos for animals, detergents for washing wool products, liquid soap. The solution is made weak (about 1 tsp per 500 ml of warm water). It is applied to the surface of fur products with a soft sponge or from a spray bottle, and then wiped off the pile with a clean, well-wrung out cloth (non-fading) and dried with a napkin.

For greater efficiency, it is advised to add 1 tsp to the soap solution. ammonia or combine with dry cleaning and spray it over the scattered and rubbed into the fur of the adsorbent. After wet processing, the product must be thoroughly dried at room temperature in a ventilated room without access to direct sunlight, away from heating and heating appliances.

To speed up the drying of fur products, do not use heaters or batteries. At high temperatures, the skin dries up and cracks, and the pile grows dull and begins to crumble

To restore the natural shine of the fox fur, it is wiped with a swab dipped in a solution of vinegar in a 1: 1 ratio with water.

If it is necessary to clean white fur from yellowness, then use hydrogen peroxide... It is diluted with water (1: 1), moistened with a cotton pad or the edge of a sponge, and wipe the long pile in the direction of its growth. Also has a good whitening effect baking soda, dissolved in medical alcohol (1: 3). After peroxide or alcohol, the product must be cleaned with soapy water or clean water using a well-wrung out sponge. Then the fur must be allowed to dry completely, shaken, combed gently and beaten.

Silver fox

Fox furs have a wide range of natural colors: from red-yellow to platinum, medium density and pile length 5-6 cm.

Among the fur products from various types of foxes, silver foxes are considered the most popular.

You can clean the fur of the silver fox using the same means as the fox. It is better to use table salt, rye bran, clean sand as adsorbents for dark fur. They should also be heated in a dry skillet and scattered evenly over the fur.

For serious dirt or individual stains, salt (3 tsp) is mixed with ammonia (1 tsp) and dissolved in 500 ml of warm water. Then the brush is moistened in the resulting solution and the most problem areas are cleaned.

Refined gasoline is considered another effective degreaser. They can simply moisten a sponge and clean the fur in the stained areas, or soak sawdust (not resinous, but hard) with gasoline and scatter them over the entire surface of the product. After letting the sawdust dry slightly for 20-30 minutes, you need to shake them off well from the product, remove the remains with a vacuum cleaner (at low power) and treat the fur with soapy water. Next, you need to wipe the entire pile with a damp sponge soaked in clean water and a dry cloth. After cleaning, be sure to dry the fur garment in natural conditions.

Mink

Mink fur is divided into 5 groups by color:

1. Black with dark gray down (extra).
2. Dark brown.
3. Beige.
4. White.
5. Blue.

Mink products are highly wear-resistant, due to the density and low height of the fur

To clean the mink fur, it is safer to use dry sorbents "inedible" for moths: talc, chalk, tooth powder (on white and light-colored items), sand or sawdust (on dark ones). For wet cleaning, it is advised to use a mixture of table vinegar, rubbing alcohol and water in equal proportions. It can also be applied with a sponge, gently wiping the pile, or by spraying from a spray bottle. After wet processing, the fur must be wiped dry with a fading cloth.

Particularly contaminated places are treated with purified gasoline or saline solution with ammonia (3 tsp. Salt, 1 tsp. Ammonia per 500 ml of water). They moisten a cotton swab or disk and gently wipe the stained or greasy areas.

Rabbit

The most democratic, but short-lived rabbit fur requires careful storage and cleaning.

Rabbit fur products are designed for a short period of wear (maximum 4-5 seasons) due to the softness and thinness of its pile, the tendency to constant shedding

If fur things from a rabbit are simply dusty, then it is not recommended to shake and vacuum them strongly. It is better to wrap it in a slightly damp old sheet and gently pat it all over the surface with your palms so that the knocked out dust settles on the fabric.

For cleaning rabbit fur, the most suitable are dry methods... Dirt from white things is well removed with hot wheat bran, sand or starch. They cover the entire surface, rub it with your hands easily, and then gently sweep it away with a soft brush. Since the fine fibers of the fur are quickly salted in order to degrease and clean the fur, starch or bran is mixed with refined gasoline to a gruel state. It is applied to the oiled areas and rubbed slightly against the direction of the pile, then shaken out and combed with a soft brush. Repeat the procedure if necessary. After cleaning, the fur clothing should be hung on a suitably sized hanger and allowed to air well until the smell of gasoline disappears.

To whiten rabbit fur, a solution of hydrogen peroxide is also used (1 tablespoon per 250 ml of water), adding a few drops of ammonia to it. It is better to apply the mixture from a spray bottle, evenly spraying it over the surface of the product.

The most contaminated areas are advised to clean with a mixture of table vinegar, rubbing alcohol and water (1: 1: 1).

There are no such strict restrictions in the care of artificial materials as with respect to natural fur.

Some faux fur items can be machine washed on a delicate cycle using woolen chemicals

Machine wash suitable for synthetic fur (not cotton). Products from these types of fabrics are washed with a minimum spin and dried unfolded on a flat horizontal surface covered with a terry towel or an old sheet. Before drying, it is recommended to carefully comb the pile with a brush so that it does not get lost in lumps.

If the fur is not very dirty, then it is better not to get carried away with washing, but to clean it with soapy water. Laundry detergent, soap or liquid detergents should be well dissolved in water, whipped into a lather and applied with a sponge to dirty areas. You don't need to rub it hard, especially in different directions. Soap and dirt residues are washed off with a clean, damp sponge or cloth. After cleaning, the thing must be dried, and the fur must be combed with a brush, giving it fluffiness.

It is risky to use gasoline, acetone, vinegar, peroxide, ammonia for cleaning artificial fur. They can irreparably ruin the thing - wash out the color and dissolve the pile materials.

Cleaning the fur is not an easy task, but quite doable. If you do it regularly and correctly, things will retain their warming qualities and luxurious appearance for a long time. Before removing various stains from clothes, you need to find out how safe the selected solvent is for the fabric itself. It is applied in a small amount on an inconspicuous area of \u200b\u200bthe thing from the wrong side for 5-10 minutes. If the material retains its structure and color, you can move on to stains.

The dishwasher is not only good for dishes and cups. It can be loaded with plastic toys, glass lampshades and even dirty vegetables, such as potatoes, but only without the use of detergents.

Threads of gold and silver, which in the old days were used to embroider clothes, are called gimp. To obtain them, the metal wire was pulled for a long time with pliers to the state of the necessary fineness. Hence the expression "pull (breed) gimmick" - "to engage in long monotonous work" or "to delay the execution of the case."

If the first signs of bearing in the form of untidy pellets appeared on your favorite things, you can get rid of them using a special machine - a shaver. It quickly and efficiently shaves off clumped fabric fibers and makes things look worthy.

There are special traps to fight moths. The pheromones of females are added to the sticky layer with which they are covered, attracting males. Sticking to the trap, they drop out of the reproduction process, which leads to a decrease in the moth population.

Stretch ceilings made of PVC film are capable of withstanding from 70 to 120 liters of water per 1 m 2 of their area (depending on the size of the ceiling, the degree of its tension and the quality of the film). So you don't have to worry about leaks from the neighbors on top.

The habit of using the washing machine “sparingly” can lead to an unpleasant odor in it. Washing at temperatures below 60 ℃ and short rinses allow fungi and bacteria from dirty clothes to remain on the inner surfaces and actively multiply.

The period of service for hats and fur coats is different. Rabbit fur loses its appearance most quickly - up to 4 years old, a fox fur coat can be worn for 6-7 years, a mink hat - 10-12, and otter and beaver fur, which can be worn up to 20 years, will last the longest. During this entire period, the fur product can get dirty and lose its original shine. It will be possible to get rid of dirt and restore its former beauty in the simplest ways, and at home, on your own, without resorting to dry cleaning.

When to clean fur

Cleaning of fur products is resorted to in the following cases, if:

• there is dirt on the surface from dust with a coating;
• the uniform color structure is lost;
• particles of debris are present between the hairs;
• tangled lumps are formed and the tips of the hairs are split.

Self-cleaning of the fur is possible only if it is not too dirty. Otherwise, of course, it is better to find a specialized dry cleaner and entrust your fur to her.

What is forbidden to do at home

It is forbidden to independently conduct the following experiments with a fur thing:

• wash and wash stains with washing powder or detergents;
• dry fur over heating devices or near a fire (it should be dried in a carefully ventilated room in a natural way);
• clean fur with a vacuum cleaner;
• iron with an iron - the fur will even itself out in an independent way.

It is better to clean and dry fur products in spring and summer, when it is warm and there is a possibility of natural drying. It is also not recommended to dry the fur in direct sunlight, as it will lose its natural color.

• Before starting the cleaning procedure, the fur product is not strongly knocked out, and then cleaned with a special brush;
• In case the fur is crumpled, it is better to moisten it with a sponge. Then the fur is combed, allowed to dry and knocked out after complete drying;
• Potato skins are excellent cleansers. It should be thoroughly washed and mixed with a few drops of ammonia. The mixture is distributed to the contaminated place, lightly rubbed with a brush, washed off and wiped;
• To restore the softness of the coarse fur surface over time, take glycerin, liquid paraffin and egg yolk. Mix everything and add 250 ml of warm water. With the resulting composition, wipe the leather base of the fur, dry, crumple and pull slightly in different directions;
• You can return a beautiful shine using a cloth dipped in vinegar essence glycerin, lemon juice or citric acid. A fur product should be treated with one of the above substances, and then thoroughly wiped with a napkin;
• You can clean faux fur with a soap solution: dilute 2 tablespoons of synthetic fabric detergent in 1 liter of water. Beat the foam and, applying it to the brush, rub the fur over the pile. The remains of the solution are removed with a slightly damp cotton cloth;
• Artificial fur should be treated with antistatic aerosols. They will help protect the fur from dirt and remove electrostatic charges that attract dust.

Fur cleaning at home

Even if a fur product is in a case in a closet, it is still not insured against contamination, at least with the same dust. Fur shops sell special brushes that can be used to clean fur. She can just comb the villi. A more thorough cleaning of the fur is carried out in different ways, depending on which animal the fur product is sewn from.

• Shine the mink

The first thing for a mink fur is to give it back its shine. It is lost as a result of the leaching of the fat composition. To do this, dissolve 100 g of fish or pork fat and 10 g of soap in 1 liter of boiled water. After stirring, add 10 drops of ammonia and cool the mixture to room temperature (30-35 degrees). The mixture is then applied to the fur using a brush.

• How to clean a fox

Take 1 small spoonful of ammonia and the same 3 tablespoons of table salt for half a liter of water, mix. Soak a cotton swab in the solution and start gently removing the stain. The last stage is drying the fur product.

• Rabbit cleaning

Mix acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide (both 5%). A cotton swab is moistened and the surface is treated in the direction of villus growth. At the end of cleaning, remove the remaining solution without touching the leather base of the thing.

• How to clean goat fur

The goat fur is cleaned with cool soapy water, then wiped with a damp cloth. After the procedure, the product is dried.

• Doodle lightening

Hydrogen peroxide (3-5%) will help to lighten the yellowed karakul. To do this, dilute a teaspoon of it in a glass of water and drip a few drops of ammonia.

• Cleaning beaver and otter fur

For cleaning, the fur product is placed on a clean horizontal surface and sprinkled with hot sand. Then rub gently with the palm of your hand. Dirty sand is shaken off and clean sand is re-poured. This is done several times.

How to clean dark fur

For dark fur products, ordinary bran and walnuts are perfect. The bran is heated in the oven up to 60-70 degrees. Then gently rub them into the fur, collecting all the dirt. The thing is shaken off. The nuts are crushed and the resulting powder is tied in a gauze cloth and folded in 2 times. With this swab, wipe the fur in the direction of the villi. Walnut oil nourishes the bristles well, giving a lively and effective shine. At the end of cleaning, the product is combed with a special bristle brush.

Cleaning light fur

In order to clean light natural fur, you can use the following methods:

1. Starch is the best cleanser for white fur coats, collars or hats made from natural fur. Having sprinkled it abundantly directly on the fur, the product is carefully crumpled until the powder collects all the dust. Then the thing is shaken and combed. The procedure is repeated a couple more times.
2. Wheat or rye bran, semolina, or potato flour are also good for peeling white fur. Sprinkle abundantly with one of the indicated adsorbents and rub gently in the palms of the hands along with the fur. Then the product is shaken and cleaned with a soft brush.
3. To prevent the white fur from becoming yellow, it is wiped with a solution of hydrogen peroxide. To do this, take a large spoonful of peroxide and stir it in a liter of water. Gently blot the villi, then dry. It is recommended to wipe the fur that has turned yellow over time with a more concentrated solution of hydrogen peroxide.
4. To remove a greasy stain on a white fur product, you should dissolve a teaspoon of ammonia and 3 small tablespoons of sodium chloride in half a liter of water.

Care should be taken to maintain the proportions between the fur cleaning agents. Although they help remove dirt and stains, too much alcohol, vinegar or hydrogen peroxide can ruin a fur product.

Before processing fur products, you need to carefully examine them. If you see dust or dirty spots, it is not necessary to send the item to dry cleaning - you can cope with them at home. In order not to damage clothes, you need to take into account the nature of the pollution:

1. During storage, a moth can attack a fur coat. It is impossible to fix the traces of its vital activity, therefore, fur-trimmed clothes should be stored along with specialized anti-moth products.
2. Loss of color is typical for light-colored items.
3. Discolored stain - can appear with careless handling of perfumery. It will not be possible to get rid of such pollution on your own.
4. There are traces of dye on the fur - this is possible when a bag made of natural suede is constantly worn on the shoulder - it instantly gives off its dye.
5. Deformation of the product and its base - the reason is drying with heating devices.

Fur cleaning can be done at home

In order not to wonder how to clean fur at home, store your clothes in fabric covers, in a dry and dark place. Do not spray it with perfumed liquid, and be sure to wash your clothes after each season. The fur trim is removed and cleaned with a brush. When cleaning, consider the length of the pile. If it is short, apply the cleaning compound against the fur, and if it is long, apply it in the opposite direction.

Cleaning methods

Natural fur requires more gentle care than artificial fur. Regular cleaning will help maintain its attractiveness and prevent minor damage. How to effectively clean natural fur at home? Many housewives believe that it is better to give such clothes to specialists who will competently carry out all the necessary work. But there are also effective home remedies.

The main problem with white clothing is shade change. Yellowness appears as a result of illiterate storage or careless wear. There are several options:

1. Potato starch - sprinkle it on the garment and dry it using your hands in the same way as for a standard wash. The duration of the procedure is no more than ten minutes. Then sweep away the starch and comb out the remnants with a soft-lined brush. This cleaning method can be used for both colored and light colored items.
2. Mix hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, pour into a spray bottle and spray on the fur. After processing, dry clothes at room temperature.
3. Peeled is an excellent remedy for eliminating greasy marks.
4. Mix ammonia, vinegar with water. Process the pile with the resulting composition, then cover it with a cloth that absorbs moisture well. Then dry and comb out the fur.

Natural fur can be cleaned in several ways

Artificial fur products are very popular. They also need proper care. For the manufacture of such things, cotton or synthetic fibers are used, so they need to be kept in covers with moth-killing agents. To clean fur at home, you need glycerin, alcohol and water. The composition prepared from these components is suitable for unpainted products.

Faux fur is cleaned with glycerin, alcohol and water

If the fur is heavily stained, you can wash it in a machine in a delicate mode by turning off the spin. After the procedure, remove excess water with a dry cloth and dry it in an upright position. Faux fur dries for a long time, so it is best to place it on a balcony or other ventilated place.

One of the most pressing questions is how to clean white faux fur. Chalk, talcum powder, powder, semolina or starch will help get rid of dirt. Sprinkle on the product of your choice to absorb any dirt. Additionally, the substances will polish the hairs and return them to their previous shine. You can use oatmeal or rye flour to clean your rabbit fur. Gently rub the groats into the pile, then shake the clothes, and remove the rest with a brush. The gray color of flour is a clear sign of heavy contamination of the thing. Perform all the steps again if necessary.

The white fur coat is cleaned with chalk, talcum powder or starch

To restore dazzling whiteness to clothes, use a solution of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. Spray the fur and dry it in the sun, but no longer than a day.

Sometimes ink stains may remain on fur. Gasoline mixed with starch to a liquid consistency will help to remove them. Apply the product to the stain and wait until it dries. Then comb the fur with a brush. Sunflower oil will cope with oil traces. Soak a cotton pad in it and wipe the problem area.

Stains can be removed with petrol and starch

Use chemicals to remove stubborn stains. Light dirt can be treated with acetone, turpentine or thinner. After them, be sure to clean the desired place with water, adding soda to it, wipe with a dry towel and dry.

If there are greasy or shiny spots on the fur product, gasoline will help to remove them. Dampen the sponge and rub the problem areas. Fresh dirt can be easily removed by gentle strokes along the pile, and old dirt - in the opposite direction. To enhance the effect, gasoline can be mixed with washing powder. If you want to comb the hair, use a brush instead of a sponge. Clean in a well ventilated area away from sources of ignition.

Ammonia

Light fur turns yellow after being treated with gasoline, so salt and ammonia are more suitable for it, as well as any product intended for animal hair. Beat the composition until a thick foam is obtained and process the product thoroughly. Finally, wipe the fur with a sponge soaked in clean water.

1. Place the contaminated product on a horizontal surface.
2. Test any cleaning agent on an invisible area first.
3. the fur and especially the flesh should not be wetted - from this the clothes are deformed and become coarser.
4. Do not rub the pile too hard, otherwise you may damage the base.
5. After processing, the thing should be air-dried, but not under the sun. Do not use a hair dryer or heating devices for drying.
6. There is no need to comb the karakul fur, shake it after cleaning and ventilate it well.
7. Vinegar and acetone are not suitable for artificial products. Also, aggressive agents designed to remove rust are prohibited.
8. Fur care should be comprehensive. Their base can crack and tear over time. To prevent this, regularly lubricate the skin with vegetable oil.

All of these cleaning methods are effective, but require careful use. If the clothes are heavily soiled, it is better not to risk it, but to have it dry cleaned.

An otter or beaver fur coat will last the longest: up to 20 seasons. Slightly less durable mink: 10 seasons. Squirrel and rabbit have the shortest lifespan: 2–4 years. But with proper care, fur items can retain their gloss for much longer.

How to tell if the fur is dirty

Spots and yellowness are visible immediately. The hair dryer test will help to determine the degree of general contamination of the thing and to find the most greasy areas.

Hang the fur coat on a hanger and blow cold air from a hair dryer at it. Do the villi fly freely and then easily fall into place? The fur is clean. If not, you need to clean.

But first, remember that in no case should you do with fur products.

Taboo when cleaning fur

1. The fur cannot be washed! If the flesh (the skin that holds the fur) gets wet, it can become rough and cracked. In this case, the product is deformed and bald.
2. The fur must not be dried with a hairdryer, on a radiator or in direct sunlight! Only possible outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
3. No fur! Even from the inside out.
4. The fur cannot be cleaned with household chemicals to remove rust, washing powders with enzymes, bleaches.

Before using any other product, test it on a small, inconspicuous area of \u200b\u200bthe product. For example, under the arms.

How to get rid of dust

Even in a well-closed case, a fur coat or vest can get dusty. Therefore, before storing a fur item, and also before wearing, refresh it.

Spread a damp, white cotton sheet on the floor. Put the fur coat on top and knock it out well first from one side and then from the other side. After that, hang it on a hanger and comb it.

If the fur is tangled and matted, sprinkle the item with warm water from a spray bottle and let dry. Then comb through. The pile will fall into place. For the same purpose, you can gently walk over the fur with a steamer.

How to restore shine to fur

To make your fur coat or collar play in the sun again, treat them with a solution of lemon juice or table vinegar (not essence!).

Dilute lemon juice or table vinegar in water in a 1: 1 ratio. Use a sponge or soft natural cloth to treat the fur. It is important that the sponge or rag is wrung out well. The pile should not be wetted, but wiped.

When the product is dry, comb it. The effectiveness of this remedy is especially noticeable on the mink.

Another way to bring back its shine is to use walnuts. Chop the kernels, wrap them in cheesecloth and rub the fur. The released nut oil will refresh the look of the product.

In most cases, the measures described - knocking out and returning the shine - are enough to make a fur coat, hat or vest look like new. But with natural fur, more serious problems can arise. It can turn yellow, greasy, and stained.

How to get rid of yellowness

Over time, light fur, as well as fur with a white pile on the tips (silver fox, chinchilla and others) acquires a yellow tint. The product immediately loses its presentability.

There are several ways to remove yellowness from fur.

1. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of table salt and ½ tablespoon of ammonia in a glass of warm water. Apply the solution using a well wrung out soft cloth. Dry and comb.
2. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide in a glass of warm water. Apply the solution to the product, let dry, comb.
3. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of pet shampoo in a glass of warm water. Whip up the lather and use a sponge to apply it to the pile. After 5 minutes, remove the foam with a sponge or cloth soaked in clean water. Dry and comb.

Products with a short nap can be wiped both over the wool and against. On long fur, cleaning agents are applied according to its growth, after which the pile can be ruffled.

When removing oily deposits and stains, the color of the natural fur is also important.

How to clean white fur

niknikpo / Depositphotos.com

Starch, talc and semolina help to fight grease and greasy spots on white fur. They absorb dirt and unpleasant odors.

Take starch (semolina or talcum powder) and sprinkle on the contaminated area. Using a soft brush, spread the substance between the fibers or gently remember the fur with your hands, as if you were washing. Shake the product well to remove any residue.

The dirtier the fur, the darker the starch, talc or semolina will be. The procedure must be repeated several times until the substance stops getting dirty.

It is even more effective if starch, talcum powder or cereals are heated before cleaning. This can be done in a dry skillet or microwave.

It is important to remove all residues of the product, otherwise it will become food for moths. Therefore, the product can not only be well shaken, but also vacuumed with a low-power vacuum cleaner. For example, the one used to clean the keyboard.

How to clean dark fur

To combat dirt on dark fur, use the same method, but different absorbents.

1. Rye bran. Suitable for coarse fur (nutria, goat, wolf).
2. Sawdust. Ideal for muskrat and otter fur. But in no case should you use sawdust of coniferous wood: they contain resins.
3. Sand. Copes well with dirt on the fur of a mole and beaver.

How to remove stains from fur

Stains on fur clothing can be of a different nature and origin. For example, natural suede bags willingly give color to the fur if worn on the shoulder. You can get dirty with sauce when you eat on the run, or put a blot on with a clerical pen.

You can remove a stain from dark fur with gasoline (the white will turn yellow). Refined gasoline with a high octane number. Sometimes it is applied neat, but more often it is mixed with starch or with washing powder without enzymes to the consistency of sour cream. A couple of minutes after application, the mixture must be removed with a sponge soaked in clean water, and the product must be dried and combed.

Stains from light fur can be removed with acetone or alcohol, as well as mixing liquids with starch or baking soda.

The stronger the dye and the older the stain, the harder it is to deal with at home. If the above methods did not work, do not experiment: take the fur coat to.

How to care for your skin

If you notice that the leather base of the fur is hardened, follow the procedure below.

Dissolve a little glycerin or petroleum jelly with egg yolk in a liter of warm water. With the resulting mixture, wipe the product from the inside out. Remember a little and stretch the flesh. Then remove the rest of the mixture and lay the garment to dry, inside out.

How to clean faux fur

With faux fur products, everything is easier and more complicated at the same time.

Easier because they can be washed. Preferably by hand, but it is also possible in a typewriter with a delicate mode (up to 40 degrees, up to 600 revolutions) using gentle powders and without spinning.

More difficult because it is difficult to guess with a mechanical cleaner.

Do not use vinegar or acetone to clean faux fur.

Otherwise, you can use all the same methods as for natural fur.

Do you know other life hacks for natural and artificial fur care? Share them in the comments.

If a fur hat, fur coat or vest has become stained and glazed over time, you need to clean it + this can be done at home. In addition, it is recommended to clean fur garments at the end of the season before storing them. The cleaning method will depend on whether the product is made from natural or faux fur. Natural fur coats are made from mink, chinchilla, fox, arctic fox, etc. They are not cheap, so you should be very careful when cleaning. Faux fur is a little easier to clean. But when choosing cleaning agents, you will have to consider the color of the product.

Products made from natural fur are more expensive and require special care. In order not to spoil your favorite fur coat, you must use only proven products for cleaning.

When choosing a cleaning composition, be sure to consider what kind of fur the product is made of. A fur coat or vest can be made of mink, arctic fox, rabbit, chinchilla, etc.

Arctic fox

Arctic fox fur is a fairly common material for making fur coats, hats and other wardrobe items. It can be cleaned with hair shampoo. For this you need:

• pour shampoo into a container and dilute it with a little water;
• moisten a lint-free cloth in the resulting composition;
• wipe the entire surface of the product or process it from a spray bottle by pouring the prepared solution there;
• after cleaning, wipe the fur in the direction of the pile with a clean dry cloth or paper towels.

It is advisable to take a shampoo intended for cleaning the hair of pets (cats or dogs). He acts more delicately than usual. Instead of shampoo, you can use a liquid detergent made for wool or silk.

In addition, you can restore the original shine and cleanliness to the arctic fox fur coat by using ammonia. You will need:

• mix 500 ml of warm water and 1 teaspoon of ammonia;
• wet the sponge with the resulting solution and squeeze it out;
• process fur, moving along the pile;
• then you can additionally walk over the product with your hands, evenly distributing the cleaning composition;
• after 5 minutes, take a clean, damp sponge or cloth and wipe off the remaining solution from the pile;
• then wipe the surface with paper towels or napkins.

You cannot wet the fur too much, otherwise it will lose its presentable appearance. Therefore, the sponge must be squeezed well.

The length of the hairs of the fur of the Arctic fox is considered to be quite long. Therefore, after drying, you need to carefully comb the pile with your hands or a comb with fine teeth.

The listed cleaning methods are also suitable for products made from fox fur (silver fox).

Mink

Mink fur products are in no less demand. To clean such a fur coat or hat, you can use this method:

• mix 9% vinegar, alcohol and water in equal parts;
• evenly distribute the composition over the pile with a sponge or soft brush for cleaning clothes;
• then wipe the fur dry.

If after using these products a specific smell remains on the product, you can hang it out in fresh air.

Sometimes an unpleasant gloss appears on a mink fur coat. You can remove it this way:

• add 1 tablespoon of ammonia and 3 tablespoons of sodium chloride to 500 ml of water;
• apply the mixture to shiny areas by wetting a cotton pad;
• after 5-10 minutes, wipe the area with a clean sponge slightly moistened with water;
• then remove the remaining moisture with a dry cloth.

After that, the product must be hung on a hanger in a well-ventilated area and wait until it is completely dry. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that direct sunlight does not fall on it. Otherwise, the pile will become brittle, dull and lose its properties. In addition, you cannot speed up the drying process using batteries, electric dryers and other sources of hot air.

Rabbit or muton

Rabbit fur is less difficult to care for. Therefore, you can use all of the above methods to clean it.

In addition, you can clean a rabbit or muton fur coat using bran.

Procedure steps:

• walk over the surface of the product with a slightly damp sponge;
• pour the bran into a container;
• heat them a little in the microwave and sprinkle them on contaminated areas;
• rub the pile with your hands;
• when the bran is cool and dry, gently brush it off.

If your rabbit fur coat or vest is covered in dust, you can knock it out with a regular carpet beater.

Algorithm of actions:

• take an unnecessary but clean sheet;
• moisten it with water and squeeze;
• wrap the product in a sheet;
• knock out the dust with a beater.

As a result, dust and dirt will remain on the damp fabric, and the fur will become clean and shiny again. This method is also used to remove dust from a muton fur coat.

Do not knock out the product too much, otherwise you can damage it, but at the same time the force of the blows must be sufficient so that all the dust goes to the sheet.

The fur of a rabbit is similar to the wool of a goat, nutria, wolf and raccoon. Therefore, they can be cleaned in the same way.

Chinchilla, otter

You can clean the natural fur of a chinchilla, otter or muskrat with sand. After all, these animals in a familiar environment clean their skin in this way.

Instructions:

• take clean river sand, which can be purchased at a hardware store or from construction companies;
• pour it into a container and heat it up in the microwave;
• pour hot sand on problem areas, spreading the fur product on a flat surface;
• lightly rub it into the pile;
• after cooling, the sand must be shaken off.

If the dirt is not removed immediately, the procedure can be repeated several more times.

How to clean faux fur?

Not everyone, due to personal convictions or limited funds, can afford to wear natural fur products. The way out of the situation is to buy a faux fur coat. Products made from this material are now very difficult to distinguish from natural ones, but at the same time they are much cheaper.

In order for such things to last a long time and always remain in good condition, you need to take proper care of them. To do this, it is worthwhile to timely clean the artificial fur from dirt and emerging stains.

Machine wash

The small faux fur coat can be machine washed. But at the same time, it is imperative to follow these rules:

• take out all the contents from the pockets and fasten them;
• if the product has decorative elements (buttons, rivets, etc.), then it is advisable to turn it inside out;
• spin should be turned off;
• you must select a delicate program suitable for washing wool or silk.

Such coats are dried in the same way as products made from natural fur.

Washing powder

If individual spots appear on the unnatural fur, you can remove them in this way:

• dissolve a small amount of washing powder in warm water;
• treat contaminated areas with a prepared solution using a cotton pad;
• after cleansing, wash off the soapy film with a damp sponge.

Bleaching powder can only be used if the fur is light. On dark or colored pile, stains will remain from such use.

Starch

You can use regular dishwashing detergent and starch to remove greasy stains from faux fur.

Sequencing:

• mix dishwashing liquid with starch to the consistency of liquid sour cream;
• apply the resulting mixture to the stain;
• wait for the composition to dry and clean it off with an old toothbrush or a brush for cleaning clothes;
• wipe the villi with a damp cloth.

Dishwashing detergent effectively fights grease and the starch absorbs it quickly.

Glycerol

You can get rid of old dirt with glycerin and alcohol.

Cleaning steps:

• mix in containers of 500 ml of water and medical alcohol;
• add 2 teaspoons of glycerin there;
• mix the composition thoroughly and moisten a cotton pad with it;
• rub the contaminated places;
• then rinse the fur with a damp cloth and dry with a dry cloth.

If after that the smell of alcohol remains on the product, you can wipe the cleaned area with soapy water.

Refined gasoline

If the fur of an unnatural origin has become shiny over time, you can use refined gasoline, which is poured into lighters. In no case should you use the usual one. Otherwise, an indelible greasy stain will remain on the fabric.

Mode of application:

• apply some refined gasoline to a rag or cotton pad;
• process problem areas;
• immediately wash off the substance by wiping the fur with a clean, damp cloth.

If after that a stain from gasoline or an unpleasant smell remains on the product, a special solution must be prepared. To do this, add 1 tablespoon of citric acid to a glass of warm water or squeeze the juice of half a fresh lemon.

In the same way, you can get rid of gloss on pockets or collars.

Sawdust

Wood sawdust can also help clean the faux fur. To remove even old dirt, they are mixed with refined gasoline. You will need:

• pour sawdust into a container and pour a little refined gasoline there;
• leave for several hours so that they are thoroughly soaked;
• rub the villi with the resulting mixture;
• after 5-10 minutes, shake off the sawdust with a brush and wipe the fur thoroughly with a clean damp cloth.

After the product is left in the fresh air, so that the smell of gasoline disappears.

Peeling light fur

Light-colored fur requires more thorough care. You will have to clean it more often, since all the dirt on such material is more noticeable.

In addition, over time, the once-white fur turns yellow. Therefore, you will need to use substances with bleaching properties.

Soda and alcohol

You can whiten yellowed fur at home using this method:

• mix 600 g of medical alcohol and 200 g of baking soda;
• moisten the sponge with the resulting solution and wipe the villi;
• after cleaning, wash off the composition with a clean, damp cloth.

Under no circumstances should this method be used to remove stains from dark or colored fur. Otherwise, the pile will fade and stains will remain on it.

If fur is present only in a small area of \u200b\u200ba jacket or sheepskin coat, care should be taken to avoid getting peroxide on the main part of the garment. The sheepskin coat itself is cleaned from dirt with a special brush for suede and nubuck.

Hydrogen peroxide

Perhaps the most famous remedy for self-bleaching of various fabrics and materials is hydrogen peroxide. To return whiteness to natural or artificial fur with this substance, you must:

• combine peroxide with water in equal proportions;
• pour the prepared composition into a spray bottle;
• process fur by spraying a solution;
• wait for the product to dry and carefully comb the pile with a fine-toothed comb.

If the fur is covered with an old yellow coating, you can enhance this recipe by adding a little ammonia to the mixture. To get rid of the smell after cleaning, you need to hang the product on a hanger and leave it in the fresh air.

Semolina

A gentle way to clean white fur is to use semolina.

Algorithm:

• heat semolina in the microwave or in a frying pan without oil;
• sprinkle it on the product and rub it, making movements as for hand washing;
• when the yellowness disappears, you need to brush off the remnants of the cereal with a brush;
• at the end, shake the fur coat well.

It is important not to apply excessive force when cleaning, otherwise the villi may be damaged.

Instead of semolina, you can use other bulk substances: flour or starch.

You can restore the appearance of your favorite fur coat with the help of available tools. In order not to spoil the item, you must act carefully and test the cleaning compounds on an inconspicuous area before use.