Natural silk is obtained from the fibers of the cocoon of the so-called silkworm - a kind of butterfly. The process of obtaining silk fibers takes a long time and is very laborious. Therefore, natural silk fabrics are expensive, and clothes and accessories made from them are sold in relatively small volumes.

However, varietiesThere are still many silk fabrics. Here are just a few of them.

Atlas (satin) - one of the most noble and popular varieties, characterized by smoothness and characteristic brilliance; shimmers beautifully in the light. Expensive blouses and dresses are sewn from satin; Elite bed linen, scarves, ties, ceremonial vests are produced from it. In addition, tuxedo lapels and (sometimes) very expensive dressing gowns get off with satin. This fabric is expensive, dense, very durable, but delicate, requires specific care and careful attitude. It can look both solid and vulgar.

It should be noted that not only natural silk fabrics are often called satin: the fact is that this is just a type of weaving of threads, and not a specific fabric as such. The quality of the satin can vary: for example, there are satin ties that are very, very pleasant to the touch, and there are satin ties that do not cause delight when touched.

In English, the atlas is called satin. In other words, satin is an atlas, and atlas symbols in English language in relation to the fabric you will not meet.

Grenadine- silk fabric with a characteristic grainy texture; used for sewing ties. It looks very original and beautiful, has a soft, moderate sheen. Grenadine ties are one of the most versatile. Read more about grenadine and its varieties.

Silk twill- 100% silk fabric with a diagonal (twill) weave. It is used, in particular, for the production of breast (and not only breast) scarves, ties, scarves, and even for lining jackets / jackets / coats. Very popular.

Reps (repp) - outwardly resembles a silk fabric with a twill weave, but more “seasoned”, “heavy”, even a little rough. The rep has a pronounced texture: diagonal ribs, which are more noticeable than on silk twill. Their reps sew ties (usually striped patterns) and sometimes dresses.

Crepe de chine (crepe) - light silk fabric with a characteristic slightly embossed texture (see photo below), which is used for sewing women's clothing, in particular, dresses, and in addition - scarves. Does not electrify, does not wrinkle. Sometimes a similar cotton or even synthetic fabric can be called crepe de chine.

Brocade - silk with intricate patterns embroidered with gold and silver threads. Looks luxurious and pretentious. Brocade is dense and heavy. Now it is practically not used for tailoring (except for some historical costumes and some women's toilets). In modern men's clothing material is unacceptable. Sometimes brocade upholstery is made for very pretentious antique furniture.

Foulard- a thin silk fabric with a printed pattern, which is mainly used for sewing various kinds of shawls and scarves. There is a foulard made of 100% silk and with the addition of other fibers, including cotton and synthetic. Sometimes a specific type of pattern on a fabric (with repeating elements) is called a foulard. Read more about the pattern called foulard.

Jacquard- fabric with a relief pattern. It can be silk, it can be cotton, or it can be made from a mixture of silk and cotton fibers, and sometimes synthetics. It is used for the production of ties, shirts, blankets, bedspreads, furniture upholstery. Jacquard ties are best tied with small and simple knots.

Silk velvet - slightly "hairy" fabric, looks beautiful, pleasant to the touch, quite heavy, strongly shimmers in the light. Not very durable and requires careful maintenance. Products made of silk velvet are very rare on sale, much more often you can find clothes made of cotton or even artificial velvet. Sometimes there is a mixture: say, 28% silk and 72% viscose.

- very thin silk fabric, dresses, scarves, the thinnest scarves are sewn from it. Lightweight and translucent.

Wild silk (often raw silk in English)- rough silk, which does not look as sophisticated as the "classic" smooth shiny silk. In general, strictly speaking, wild silk is silk that is obtained from the cocoons of silkworm caterpillars collected in the field (that is, not those grown on special "farms"). Once, in ancient times, all silk was "wild", but now this "silk gathering" is commercially impractical, as it requires a huge amount of time - and, accordingly, the cost of such wild silk will be incredibly high.

Dupion (dupioni)- in fact, this is what is sometimes called "wild" silk. Such silk is characterized by an uneven, heterogeneous texture. Some people believe that she gives him charm, but others may think that "knots" are generally a sign of marriage. Dupion has no gloss, the luster is weak. Things made of such silk usually look informal (it can be women's dresses, and men's ties, and jackets/jackets). Sometimes the term is used to refer to such silk. Shantung silk(Shantung is a province of China).

Knitted silk- this is not a fabric, but knitwear, which is used to produce informal ties. Such ties are knitted by special machines. There are several subspecies of knitted silk, which differ from each other in texture. An interesting option is a subspecies of Cri de la Soie, distinguished by its large and rough texture. Knitted ties made of such silk look informal, but expressive.

Bemberg silk- this is sometimes called bemberg (cupro). This is an artificial fabric ("relative" of viscose), which resembles silk with its smoothness and slight sheen, but in fact has little in common with it. It has high wear resistance and excellent breathability and is the best material for linings.

Read more about bemberg (cupro).

Artificial (synthetic) silk- this is sometimes called viscose or polyester, which in appearance resemble silk. A trained eye, however, will distinguish polyester from natural silk. As a rule, the gloss and shine of polyester is more “cheap”. However, there are advantages: polyester is much cheaper and easier to care for.

ancient madder silk

This is the name of silk fabric dyed with dyes of plant origin, including those obtained from the plant Rubia tinctorum. In English, such a dye is called madder, and it has been used since ancient times - hence, apparently, the name ancient. In Europe, it began to be used from the 17th century (in France and England), but in the East, apparently, this dye was used as early as the third millennium BC (there are finds confirming this). Actually madder allows you to dye fabrics in various shades of orange, red, brown and burgundy colors, however, the term ancient madder silk is often applied to other colors of silk.

Unlike silk dyed with modern chemical dyes, ancient madder silk cannot boast of bright and flashy colors, but has a duller, more restrained, serious, matte picture. Some people really like this "vintage" style and they try to buy ties from ancient madder silk (English is especially appreciated). At the same time, it should be remembered that now the natural red dye madder is practically not used, since it is very expensive; usually use an artificial dye that is as close as possible to it in properties + sometimes natural dyes to get different colors.

Read more about Ancient Madder Silk.

Varieties of silk and silk fabrics by country of origin

The first place in the world in the production of silk cocoons is occupied by China, then by a wide margin India, in third place is Uzbekistan, and then Japan follows. In general, it was in China that they began to produce silk fabrics for the first time in the world, and now they are produced there in considerable quantities. Chinese silk is not considered the best now, but worthy samples at reasonable prices come from China. Of course, they also produce outright rubbish.

The production of silk fabrics is also large in India - and the situation is similar there: along with ordinary fabrics, fabrics are made very good and reasonably priced. However the best manufacturers silk fabrics have long been considered (and continue to be considered) England and France. The very fact that a tie is made of English or French silk, for example, is a guarantee of quality (although not 100%). Some Italians also use English silk; for example, some of the best Marinella ties in the world are made from English silk.

Of course, silk fabrics are also made in Italy - in this country, their production is concentrated in the Lake Como area. Raw silk there, however, usually comes from China. The quality of Italian silk fabrics is on average higher than the quality of Chinese silk fabrics, but the British and French are still a level higher.

In minimal, truly microscopic volumes from a commercial point of view, silk is produced in Switzerland.

Silk in combination with other materials

Fabrics made from silk with wool or silk with linen are not so rare. Silk + wool (or even silk + cashmere) is a good material for men's and women's suits, jackets, jackets. The main thing is that the fabric as a whole does not shine too much; noble shine is always soft, discreet, unobtrusive, discreet.

In addition, a variety of ties and scarves are sewn from silk with wool. Ties, bow ties and scarves are also made from a mixture of silk and linen, as well as silk and cotton. Depending on the ratio of materials, design, colors and patterns, these can be both informal and quite strict products. Tactile fabrics made of silk with the addition of wool, linen or cotton can be very pleasant. However, there are also rough samples.

This article is written within the .

Natural silk fabric is very popular due to its amazing characteristics. People liked silk so much that they learned how to make it synthetically. But this circumstance did not affect the high demand for natural threads obtained from silkworm cocoons.

Story

Silk - natural material, the production of which has more than one millennium. It is assumed that silk fabric began to be produced even before our era. Mulberry silk comes from China. According to legend, the 14-year-old wife of one of the first Chinese emperors once drank tea outdoors in the shade of trees, and a silkworm cocoon fell into her cup. Under the influence of hot water, a strong thin thread came out of the cocoon.

The wife of the ruler took out a thread, and at that moment she was struck by the idea that the contents of the cocoon can be used to make a fabric that is distinguished by beauty and durability. Soon, high-ranking officials of the state issued an order to grow silkworms. And later, a machine tool was invented, and raw silk began to be produced more actively.

Commoners were strictly forbidden to sew silk outfits for themselves. This shiny natural material for a long time was used in sewing outfits exclusively for representatives of the emperor's court. Especially in this regard, red silk with gold embroidery was valued.

Silk production was carried out only in China, its secret was not disclosed under pain of death. Silkworm larvae and cocoons, as well as mulberry seeds, were forbidden to be transported to other countries. With the development of trade, fine silk matter became known throughout the world. However, for many centuries China remained the only country where this natural material was produced on an industrial scale.

In Europe, a little over a century ago, acetate silk was invented - a synthetic alternative to natural silk from China. Now the production of linen is developed in Italy, France, England and Switzerland.

Throughout the ages, the history of silk has been shrouded in mystery, associated with intrigue and sometimes mysticism. The true circumstances of its occurrence are not known to this day.

The history of rayon began in the 19th century, when the xanthogenation process was developed. The technology was invented by the British Bevin, Cross and Beadle, although before them in Europe there were attempts to create an artificial canvas.

To obtain a synthetic material, the wood pulp was soaked in a solution of caustic soda. Then other chemical compounds were added to the still wet composition, due to which the xanthogenation reaction occurred.

The resulting product was passed through a kind of sieve, after which it was placed in a solution of sodium, zinc sulfate and sulfuric acid. Thus, threads and fibers were formed, and raw synthetic silk began to be produced on an industrial scale. A patent for its production was registered on September 30, 1902.

Types of silk fabrics

The range of silk fabrics is determined by the types of fibers, the weave of threads, the properties of silk, the features of its production and appearance. Natural silk fabric is found in two varieties: mulberry and tussah.

The highest quality is mulberry silk, which has no analogues. It is made from silkworm threads grown in artificial conditions. The entire process of obtaining material is carried out manually. Its processing takes place without the use of chemical products, thanks to which the natural shiny material retains all its properties.

The tussah variety, unlike mulberry, is produced from the threads of a wild silkworm caterpillar. Tussa is red silk, sometimes brown or copper. It is used in the furniture industry for upholstery, interior decoration or filling pillows. To make this fabric more presentable, it is subjected to bleaching.

it natural species silks, differing in quality and method of production.

Also, the fabric is divided into types:

• Crepe materials - crepe chiffon, crepe georgette.
• Semi-crepe fabrics - crepe satin, crepe de chine.
• Thick silk.
• Smooth fabrics.
• Pile fabrics - velor-velvet, velvet.

Silk fabric is classified according to the production method. Moreover, each material has its own unique characteristics.

1. Burette silk consists of short pieces of fiber that cannot be twisted. The fibers that make up burette silk line the outer and inner layers of the cocoon. Due to this arrangement, the threads of this type of fabric have bactericidal properties.
   
   
2. Raw silk is a high quality textile material. It is produced from the cocoon of the caterpillar by rewinding the thread or synthetically. Raw silk has the following characteristics: smoothness, softness, elasticity, strength, good extensibility. Usually raw silk is used to make dress fabrics, sewing threads and other products.
   
   
3. Viscose silk is a fabric usually of plain weave, containing synthetic fibers. Thanks to modern technologies viscose silk production is now made almost indistinguishable from natural material. Viscose can be determined by burning the fiber. This matter consists of cellulose, and therefore burns differently than natural material consisting of protein compounds.
   
   
4. Parachute silk is a plain weave fabric used in a variety of industries. Sufficiently strong parachute silk - the material is translucent, dyed in different shades depending on destination.
   
   
5. Wet silk is made exclusively from natural fibers. This is a safe and environmentally friendly material used in sewing elegant dresses: silk dresses, underwear, suits, shirts and ties. Wet silk is also used for upholstery of elite types of furniture. Otherwise, wet silk material is called satin satin..
   
   
6. The boiled silk material of plain weave has a uniform matte surface. It is used for tailoring: a silk dress, as well as suits and other outfits from a boiled type of fabric, according to recent statements by designers, are now at the height of fashion. Silk boiled material resembles in its own way appearance suede.

Composition and properties

According to its chemical composition, natural material resembles hair or wool. At 97% it consists of proteins, the rest is waxes and fats. Artificially obtained acetate silk consists mainly of cellulose with a small content of chemical impurities.

Silk fabric of natural origin is resistant to acids, organic solvents and alkalis.

Natural material loses its strength at temperatures above 110 degrees or under direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Silk fabric is pleasant to the touch. This is a shiny, durable and soft material that can be dyed in different shades. It is very wear-resistant, well passes air and absorbs moisture. In the light, the thin fabric shimmers beautifully.

Both summer and winter things are sewn from this matter, because at any ambient temperature the body is comfortable in them. In addition, natural silk has a disinfecting effect - especially burette silk, obtained from the protective fibers of the inner and outer layers. Therefore, silk fabric is often used as a suture material.

The disadvantages of silk fabrics, especially plain weave, include easy wrinkling. If a silk dress is made from such varieties as chiffon and crepe-georgette, it practically does not wrinkle due to the increased twisting of the threads in the canvas. The appearance of stains on the surface of the fabric under the influence of moisture also refers to the minuses. Such contaminants are easily removed with alcohol. Synthetic material is electrified, while natural does not have such a feature.

Production

Silkworm caterpillars are bred in large sericulture farms. First, their eggs are placed in incubators. After the insect hatches, it is transferred to the feed shelves. When the silkworm grows up, it is placed in boxes, where it begins its work of making a cocoon. This takes about 4 days. The finished cocoon is placed in boiling water, where it unwinds. It turns out a silk thread with a length of 300 to 1000 meters.

After a special treatment, the thread becomes shiny. If you need a fabric without shine, it is simply removed at one of the final stages of production. The threads are dyed and woven from them into dense silk, natural natural matter. This is where silk production ends.

Application

As already mentioned, the areas of use of this material are very extensive. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Interior decoration

In the 90s of the last century, a new type of wall decoration appeared in Europe. For this, wet silk was used - a special plaster containing natural fibers. Wet silk was used in the decoration of elite premises. Now the wet silk look of decor has become more accessible.

Owners of entertainment establishments should pay attention to wet silk. This material has an excellent texture, it does not burn or smolder, therefore, from the point of view of fire safety, it is ideal. In addition, the wet finishing material is very beautiful and durable.

Tailoring

Perhaps this is the most common area of ​​​​application of silk fabrics. For tailoring, both natural and acetate silk are used, which differ quite a bit in properties. Thin silk fabric of plain weave perfectly emphasizes the figure, is comfortable to wear and durable.

For the manufacture of wardrobe items, parachute silk is often used, which is highly durable. This type is also used in the production different products: tents, seat and furniture upholstery, etc.

Home textiles

Beautiful shiny fabric looks great in the interior. Curtains are sewn from it, bed sheets, covers for furniture, bedspreads and much more.

Silk is absolutely non-allergenic material. Dust mites and bed bugs do not breed on it. Therefore, for people with allergies, this thin fabric is best suited.

The medicine

Mulberry silk has the ability to absorb moisture to a much greater extent than other materials. It doesn't feel wet at all though. Therefore, it is actively used in medicine.

It is an excellent suture material used in surgery. The suture type of matter does not resolve up to 3 months. Also, suture silk causes a slight initial inflammatory response in living tissue. Silk suture material is used even in eye and neurosurgery.

Needlework

This fabric makes excellent souvenirs. In the embroidery of pictures, mulberry silk or artificial silk is used. Arriving in the Vietnamese city of Dalat, tourists must visit the workshop of a family of embroiderers. There are very expensive unique canvases embroidered by hand with natural silk threads on a transparent canvas.

Burette silk (or other natural silk) is also used in knitting. Exquisite knitted things are made from it manually or on special machines.

How to distinguish the material?

To determine that we are not dealing with acetate silk, but with a natural material, we can use the combustion method. Artificial fibers will actively burn with a bright flame, emitting the smell of paper.

If you set fire to natural silk material, it will smolder. In this case, you can smell the smell of burnt hair.

In addition, silk can be identified by its soft texture, shiny surface.

Care rules

Plain weave fabric made of silk threads requires special care. This shiny material needs to be washed by hand or using a special mode. Do not wash delicate items, it is better to give them to dry cleaning.

When washing, clothes should be separated by color: red silk is washed separately from white, etc.

dupont- heavy dense fabric. It is made from two threads: untwisted (warp) and cut (weft). Suitable for upholstery, clothing and as a curtain fabric.

Atlas- dense silk fabric. The front side is glossy, shiny and smooth, and the wrong side is matte. This type of weaving fabric was invented in China. This technology came to Europe along with the technology of growing silkworms along the Great Silk Road.
Atlas is used to make scarves, shawls, clothes, etc. Different types satin is caused by different density and width of the fabric. One of the varieties of thin satin - charmeuse.

Jacquard- silk with a variety of patterns due to the special weave of silk threads. It is produced on a special jacquard loom. This beautiful fabric used for sewing blouses, dresses and scarves, as well as in the interior.

Georgette crepe- the surface of this type of silk fabric is matte, the texture is dense. It is woven from threads of increased twist, due to which it practically does not wrinkle. Very comfortable to wear.

Velvet- fabric with thick soft pile on the front side. It is also used for making clothes and in the interior.

Brocade- heavy silk fabric with a pattern made of metal threads with silver, gold or their alloys with other metals.

Crepe de chine- translated from French means wavy, rough. It is thin, grainy to the touch, like sand. Ideal for draperies and frills, it wears very well and hardly wrinkles.

Pongee- translated from French - "sponge". The surface of this fabric is like a sponge. It has a not too tight weave. As a rule, this is a color pattern in the form of wide stripes, a cage or a beautiful ornament.

Organza- rigid transparent silk fabric of plain weave with strongly twisted thread. It is matte and shiny. It was first produced in India under the name "organdy".
It is used in tailoring of evening and theatrical clothes, interior design and fabric flower making.

Muslin- thin transparent fabric. It is produced from single-strand natural silk of increased twist; used to make dresses, theatrical costumes, etc.

Twill- silk with a diagonal weave of threads; It is produced mainly printed and plain-dyed. It is used as a dress, lining and technical fabric.

Toile- silk fabric with untwisted plain weave thread. It is soft and light, with a noble sheen. It is most often used as a lining for expensive clothes, and is also in demand by batik artists.

Chesucha(wild silk) - a harsh clothes fabric that has a yellowish color. It is made from a special kind of silk - tussora or from silk tows. Wild silk is also called silk from cut threads, or silk made from different-fibered cocoons of a wild silkworm (oak silkworm). This type of fabric is rarely bleached or dyed, so it is very suitable for clothes for expectant mothers and babies, as well as for people prone to allergies.

Chiffon- thin transparent flowing silk fabric of plain weave made of crepe twist threads. Very light and transparent. Ideal for making blouses and scarves.

Excelsior- silk with untwisted plain weave thread. Light and soft fabric. Usually printed or plain dyed. It is in demand among designers involved in batik or creating flowers from silk.

Foulard- light silk, very soft. It is considered a fragile material, so clothes are rarely made from it, using it more as a finishing material, for scarves, silk flowers.

Gas- light and translucent silk, because there is a lot of space between the threads. It can be different - smooth, patterned and diagonal weave.
- gas-crystal- was invented in 1852. For its manufacture, multi-colored warp and weft threads are used. From other types of silk, gas-crystal is distinguished by iridescent brilliance;
- gas illusion is the thinnest, almost transparent.
- gas-rice- very soft silk. It is made from untwisted threads of raw silk.
- gas marabou- fabric from pre-twisted threads of raw silk. Therefore, it has a beautiful golden color, but a little harsh.

Reading time: 5 minutes

Natural silk is not a cheap pleasure. But the high price per meter of this fabric, pleasing to the eye and clinging to the body, once available only to crowned heads, is fully justified.

Let's turn to Wikipedia.

Silk(thread) - the thinnest fiber formed as a result of the life of the silkworm caterpillar. The chemical composition of the silk thread: 18 different amino acids, potassium, sodium - up to 2%, wax and fat components - up to 3%, sericin - up to 40%, fibroin - up to 80%.
Silk (fabric) is a woven fabric obtained from silk threads from the unwound cocoons of the silkworm caterpillar.

Pre-collected grena (eggs) of silkworm for 7-10 days are placed in incubators with a favorable temperature in the range of +23-25°C. Hatched 3 mm larvae are transported to be fattened with leaves freshly picked from mulberry trees, which are laid out in large quantities on the shelves of aft shelves covered with a fine mesh.

From the moment of hatching until the hour when the grown caterpillar begins to prepare for the transformation into a butterfly and begins to spin a cocoon, it will molt four times. A mature specimen of a silkworm is 7-8 cm long, weighs up to 5 g and is “armed” with a building tool for weaving a cocoon - a small outgrowth under the lower lip from which a sticky mass is released.

The fibers pulled out of it almost instantly become strong and elastic. Stretching for the caterpillar, diligently forming a “house” for itself, they form a fluffy-looking, but sticky, ball closed on all sides or an egg-like oval with a large cavity that serves as a refuge for the insect.

Interesting fact

To obtain a kilogram of raw silk, about 18 kg of cocoons from 1000 caterpillars are required. To accumulate enough secretion to produce a sticky mass, they must eat at least 60 kg of mulberry leaves (3 trees).

The length of the thread in one cocoon can reach 1000 m. From 100 kg of base raw materials, about 9 kg of threads suitable for weaving are obtained. The largest cocoons are 6 cm, the smallest ones are 1.5 cm.

Characteristics of raw fiber:

• Thickness -13-14 microns
• Tensile strength - up to 15 g.

Advantages of silk fabric

• Excellent breathability, allowing the skin to breathe as well as in the absence of clothing.
• Excellent hygroscopicity - absorbing perspiration silk fabric quickly evaporates moisture.
• Unique thermoregulation - a silk outfit quickly acquires the body temperature of the wearer and does not cause the formation of uncomfortable sensations.
• Unique hygiene - things made of silk protect against lice attacks, are unattractive to saprophytes (mites that breed in dust), and other pathogenic life forms.
• The presence of amino acids in silk has a beneficial effect on the human epidermis - it stimulates the regeneration process.
• Wear resistance - at proper care things from silk material do not lose their attractiveness for decades.

Minuses

• Requires great care when ironing.
• They are afraid of intense exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
• When liquid (water, sweat, rain) gets on the silk surface, unattractive stains are formed.
• Price.

Types of silk

silk fabrics quite varied.

The difference between natural silk and artificial

"Fake silk" is woven from threads obtained from cellulose materials.
It differs from the present by less wear resistance, does not stimulate regenerative processes, lack of the ability to repel harmful insects, and a tendency to electrify.

• Machine wash on gentle setting only.
• When washing by hand, do not rub hard.
• Water temperature for washing - up to 30 ° C, rinsing - up to 25 ° C.
• Rinsing in water acidified with vinegar (5 tablespoons of 9% per 10 liters of water) will enhance the brightness of dyed silk.
• Spin mechanical / manual should be gentle.
• On the street, drying should be carried out in a shady place, indoors - in a suspended state, at some distance from closed-type heating devices.
• Iron with a slightly heated iron.

If earlier you considered lovers of silk things to be sybarites, now you understand that they are just practical people who prefer to purchase high-quality, long-lasting products.

The debate about when the silk-making process began continues to this day. However, the finds of archaeologists in China could already put an end to this issue - fragments of fabric discovered in 1958 in the province of Shandong, in eastern China, are the oldest silk products in the world that have come down to us. Now silk is called the "king of fabrics" and it is made in many varieties, and the most valuable and expensive - natural material, is inextricably linked with the history and culture of the Celestial Empire.

The Legend of the Emperor's Wife

Silk production in China dates back over 6,000 years. The history of this magnificent fabric is covered with legends. According to one of them, the wife of the Yellow Emperor Huangdi was sitting under a mulberry tree and drinking tea when a white ball - a cocoon - fell into her cup. The woman loved to contemplate various phenomena and saw how a strong white thread appeared from a fluffy ball. Having wound the thread around her finger, the emperor's wife realized that it could be used to create fabric. By her order, silkworms began to be grown on purpose.

Later, a primitive loom was invented in China, after which the production of silk in ancient China in the era in the 16th century BC. e. reached the highest level.

Under pain of death: the secret of the production of Chinese weavers

Your art Chinese masters kept in deep secrecy for more than a thousand years. The secret of silk production in the ancient world was very strictly classified - in the history of mankind it was one of the most guarded "business secrets". The ban on the export of silkworm larvae, cocoons, mulberry seeds acted under pain of death.

Although in those distant times only emperors and nobles had the right to dress in silk, the culture of sericulture and silk spinning quickly spread throughout the Celestial Empire, both the middle class and the poor bought the fabric.

Fine canvases and outfits were famous for their excellent quality and fine workmanship. But neither bans nor executions could stop the advancement of silk to other countries.

Great Silk Road

Silk goods became an important component of the foreign trade of the Chinese Empire. valuable fabric was brought to Europe thanks to the Silk Road. Goods were transported over the mountains and deserts, on camels and mules, and no obstacles could stop heavily loaded caravans - a valuable cargo promised considerable profit.

The Great Silk Road ran through Asia and Europe, linking the life and way of life of various peoples. It began in the valley of the Yellow River, passed through the western part of the Great Wall of China to Lake Issyk-Kul. Further, the path forked in the northern and southern directions: to the south, the road led to Ferghana, Samarkand, Iraq, Iran, Syria and the Mediterranean Sea, and the northern part diverged into two segments - one went to Central Asia, and the second along the lower reaches of the Syr Darya River to and , skirting the north-east of the Black Sea, to Europe. The total length of the Great Silk Road was more than 7 thousand kilometers.

So silk production appeared in Korea, then in Japan, India, and finally in European countries and the Roman Empire. For centuries, the Silk Road has represented the true idea of ​​global trade in action. The trade routes of the Silk Road were created over thousands of years. "One Belt, One Road" - this idea is still modern: in the 21st century, China's policy of revitalizing the Silk Road is being revived with investments in roads, high-speed rails and ports, which ensures the efficiency of production bases on a wide regional belt.

You can learn about the Great Silk Road at the world's largest silk museum in Hangzhou. A huge number of unique products and fragments of ancient paintings of various dynasties and eras are stored here.

Features of the production of natural silk

Although the production of silk in ancient China was highly classified, according to legend, Roman monks managed to secretly take silkworm cocoons to the capital of the Byzantine Empire, Constantinople. It was since then that a worm-breeding house was set up in the imperial palace (a room for breeding caterpillars and winding machines were installed. Products had a fabulous price - and this is due to the complexity and multi-stage process of obtaining threads and then finished fabric.

Silkworm breeding and production natural silk requires a lot of attention, painstaking work and careful control.

Main stages of production

If we describe the production of silk briefly, we get the following process. Silkworm butterflies during their life, which lasts from 4 to 6 days, lay about 500 eggs. The larvae are fed with mulberry leaves, they have a huge appetite, their weight increases rapidly. Grown caterpillar larvae surround themselves with a substance that is produced by their special glands. First, two thin silks stand out, solidifying in air. Soon, a dense thread network forms around the caterpillar. Having built the frame of the cocoon, the caterpillar moves to its center, gradually forming a cocoon - a white fluffy ball.

After 8-9 days, the larvae are destroyed, and the cocoons are dipped in hot water to get threads. Their length can be from 400 to 1000 meters and a thickness of 10-12 microns. Several twisted silkworm threads are raw. Next, the resulting threads are turned into fabric. The complexity of fabric production is significant: women's dressing gown leaves about 630 cocoons.

Further development of Chinese technology

The resulting thread had to be wound on a spool. The first silk-rolling wheels were invented during the Ming Dynasty. In the 18th century, craftsmen made machines in which the wheel was set in motion by the feet, which increased labor productivity.

Then a machine was created for the manufacture of multi-color large-patterned fabric, which served as a further development of the technology. Chinese silk craft was much more perfect than European - the first machine weaving silk ribbons appeared in Germany only in the 16th century. The demand for silk fabrics grew both within China and around the world. Subsequently, the mechanization of silk production was improved - the history of this fabric is intertwined with the achievements of weaving engineering.

Silk spinning and weaving: history and modernity

The industrialization of the 19th century saw the decline of the European silk industry. Japan became the second "silk empire" after China. Cheap Japanese silk, especially due to the opening of the Suez Canal, was one of many factors in reducing its overall cost. In addition, the advent of artificial fibers began to dominate the manufacture of products such as stockings and parachutes.

Two world wars interrupted the supply of raw materials from Japan, and the European silk industry was stagnant. But in the early 1950s, silk production in Japan was restored, and the quality of the raw material improved. Japan, along with China, remained one of the world's leading producers of raw silk and virtually the only major exporter until the 1970s.

China has gradually redefined its position as a world leader in silk production and exporter of raw yarn, proving that the history of silk follows its own boomerang principles. Today, about 125 thousand tons of silk are produced in the world. Almost two thirds of this production is supplied by China. Other major producers are India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Uzbekistan and Brazil. The United States of America is the largest importer of silk products.

Properties of natural fabric

Products made of natural silk should be shiny and delicate, and their color should be uniform. It is best to buy silk in China - in Suzhou, Hangzhou and Shanghai: all over the world, enterprising merchants arrange silk tours to this country.

When buying products made from natural silk, you should consider:

• silk products require hand washing;
• stains on silk products should be washed quickly in cold water with mild detergents;
• after washing, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the product and dry it gently;
• silk clothes should be ironed at a low temperature (it is specially marked on irons);
• exquisite products or those with a multi-color print are best dry-cleaned;
• it is best to store products in a case (but not plastic) and away from direct sunlight.

Compliance with these simple tips will help to preserve bright elegant products and wardrobe items donated by nature itself for a long time.

Artificial silk: features and differences

At the end of the 19th century, artificial silk first appeared, its production was established from cellulose fiber. The fabric was called viscose.

Artificial and synthetic types of silk fabrics have a unique sheen, they are smooth and durable. How to distinguish artificial fabric from natural? Indeed, often on the market you can buy a fake at a high price.

Here are some tips on what to look for when choosing a fabric:

• natural material is soft and warm to the touch, unlike artificial, cool and less soft;
• the natural canvas wrinkles a little, the artificial one wrinkles more;
• natural fabrics slightly shine and shimmer, artificial ones have a sharp sheen;
• the dangling end of the artificial thread looks like a brush with fluffy fibers, and the natural one looks like a bundle of individual mini-fibers;
• a wet thread of artificial silk breaks more easily than a dry one;
• the method of burning a thread cannot always be applied, but it is the most reliable: a natural thread sinters into a dense lump, quickly goes out and smells like burnt hair, and an artificial thread burns out to the end, emitting the smell of burnt synthetics;
• artificial canvases do not shrink, unlike natural ones;
• artificial silk practically does not fade in the sun, and natural fabrics lose color and fade over time.

Silk can be called a unique product that has come down to us from antiquity, without losing its beauty and demand. Fashion houses around the world - Dolce and Gabbana, Valentino and others create collections based on natural silk, delighting sophisticated connoisseurs of true beauty with new facets of the quality of this material - a gift of nature to a master man.